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Thursday, April 29, 2010

What to Have for Lunch Today: Croque Monsieur at Passion Café

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 7:38 AM

click to enlarge Croque monsieur ($9). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Croque monsieur ($9).
Thurs., April 29, 2010

There's something about the lacquer sheen of urban rehab here, the scuffed-up scene on Stevenson Alley glimpsed through lace-edged curtains, the prevalence of meaty tattooed guys who'd fit right in at an Eagle beer bust (except for the French accents, maybe), and a menu replicating tourist restaurants near Paris train stations that makes Passion Café unlike any other place in the city. The croque monsieur fits right in: slabby brioche, milk-white Mornay sauce, pink bistro ham, and enough melted Swiss to blanket Haute-Savoie. Enormous hunks of green bell pepper on the accompanying heap of a salad make it, too, unlike any other in San Francisco.

Passion Café 28 Sixth St. (at Stevenson), 437-9730

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