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Thursday, April 29, 2010

Meaty Nostalgia, Argentinean Style

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 6:17 PM

Javier Sandes. - JASON C./YELP
  • Jason C./Yelp
  • Javier Sandes.
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

It's a week old, but Cyrus Farivar's interview with Javier Sandes, Emeryville street vendor of Argentinian asado, is still fresh as, um, newly mixed chimichurri.

Mobile memories: Last month, Sandes debuted Primo's Parrilla ― he slow-grills tri-tip and chickens over a mix of mesquite and hardwood charcoal. Cue the backstory, direct from Sandes:

I missed a part of my culture which took place every Sunday in the backyard with friends and family -- an all day asado. We would start late morning with picadas of cheeses, salami's and olives washed down by Fernet & Coke, Cinzano & soda water -- all this while the fire was starting and the meat getting placed on the grill. While the meat was grilling we caught up on the week's events and kicked around the soccer ball. Early afternoon the asado was ready and we pushed together several tables, sometimes borrowing from the neighbors, and began our feast. This would include- blood sausage, kidney, tripes, sweet breads, short ribs and chicken. We'd wash it down with red wine and beer (Quilmes!) and finish it off with fruit salad or icecream.

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Fergus Henderson, London's Guru of Animal Parts, Slices into Town Next Month

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 5:27 PM

Fergus Henderson. - NYMAG.COM
  • nymag.com
  • Fergus Henderson.
Fergus Henderson of London's St. Johns crafting ― and then tucking into ― a special menu at Incanto should shake up the local school of offal appreciation. Imagining Henderson and Cosentino, side by side, perhaps carving up a fat Duroc gives us the shivers ― like we had when the Dream Team convened for the Olympics in 1992. Sort of.

Anyway, on May 11, Incanto will, in fact, host a celebratory dinner for the visiting Brits, reportedly passing through town to "share the news" of the new hotel and restaurant they're opening in Soho later this year. For this $65 four-course dinner featuring roast marrow and parsley salad, ox tongue with potatoes and green sauce, a braised goat shoulder with trotters, garlic, and broad beans, and strawberries in wine, there will be just one solitary seating. Details on reserving a place after the jump.

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Hapa SF, Ex-Citizen Cake Chef's Filipino Taco Truck, Launches in Brisbane

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 4:16 PM

Chef William Pilz hopes to be on a regular schedule by mid-May. - HAPA SF
  • Hapa SF
  • Chef William Pilz hopes to be on a regular schedule by mid-May.
Back in July, we blogged about a meal that, as it turned out, was a sort of watershed. William Pilz ― then chef of Citizen Cake ― collaborated with his mom to turn out a meal of Filipino classics (check it out here).

Yesterday in Brisbane, Pilz mounted a very quiet launch of Hapa SF, the Filipino mobile food company that, in a way, grew out of that dinner at Citizen Cake. By mid-May, Pilz plans to show up two to three lunchtimes a week in Brisbane (the same Walmart Connection Center lot that Curry Up Now and Sam's ChowderMobile roll into) in a used taco truck he scored in San Jose. Before long, he hopes to have an evening spot in San Francisco, with a second truck currently being pimped out with an all-new kitchen.

A talented chef, Pilz is starting out with five basics that, in their sourcing and execution, promise to be anything but. He'll have lumpia (ground Long and Bailey pork, fresh water chestnuts, spices he scores from Le Sanctuaire, and sweet-and-sour sauce made from seasonal fruit), organic chicken adobo, pancit with vegetables picked up at farmers' markets, a kind of banh mi filled with adobo-brined chicken breast, and sisig. Each item will ring up less than $10. Other dishes (kinilaw, sinigang) might come later.

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Happy Hour: It's What's for Dinner (and Your Cell Phone)

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 3:29 PM

happyhourcover.jpg
Foodistas who aren't embarrassed by the word "mixologist" like to proclaim we've entered a new Golden Age of Cocktails. It's also the rebirth of the happy hour: Raise a chocolatini glass to Lehman Brothers and Countrywide Financial for helping bring the five o'clock drink deal back into fashion. You no longer have to hunt for $3 wells and $1 oysters ― only the best of their kind.

Which is what we've been doing. If you haven't seen the SF Weekly's cover story this week, Matthew Stafford, a stalwart of our food pages, has searched the city for 30 of SF's best food and drink deals.

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You'll Have to Act Fast to Get In on Hot CUESA Action in May

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 3:21 PM

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CUESA has an awfully lively schedule of events planned for next month, some of which have already sold out; others are well on their way towards reaching capacity. As of this posting, there are just three tickets left for the Fatted Calf Extravaganza on May 16, a field trip to Fatted Calf and Hudson Farm in Napa, and eight spots for a cherry preserving class at Macy's with Frog Hollow Farm on May 22.

One event that still appears to have space (for now) is the annual Farmers Market Cocktail Night on May 19. Admission buys two full cocktails, tastes of 10 others, and apps. Drinks will be created by bartenders from 15 Romolo, Bourbon & Branch, Cantina, Gitane, Hotsy Totsy Club, Rose Pistola, Sauce, Blackbird, and Wexler's, while the bites will come from Absinthe, Il Cane Rosso, the Plant Cafe, and chefs Chad Newton and Robbie Lewis. With that lineup, and with the obvious pre-planning prowess of CUESA's sizable groupie population, we wouldn't advise you to dawdle. Details after the jump.

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House-Cured Anchovies at Zuni Cafe

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 2:11 PM

No need to drown these in pizza sauce and melted mozzarella. - ALOVELETTERAWAY/FLICKR
  • aloveletteraway/Flickr
  • No need to drown these in pizza sauce and melted mozzarella.

As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.

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Will the Sale of Anchor Mean the Death of Quality at S.F.'s Revolutionary Brand?

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 12:15 PM

Fritz Maytag in 2005. - BRIAN YAEGER
  • Brian Yaeger
  • Fritz Maytag in 2005.
Why, Fritz ― why did you sell Anchor Brewing? And does it mean the end of an era for craft brewing both in San Francisco and across the nation?

Of the 4,000 breweries operating in America at the end of the 19th century, a little over 1,500 were back up and running again after the repeal of Prohibition. But within decades, American beer, on the whole, had been homogenized into a light-bodied, patently yellow product manufactured by just over 40 companies ― the rest having been cannibalized by competitors or simply run to the ground.

When Fritz Maytag purchased Anchor in 1965, that singular act ― the whim of a young man with an inheritance, who'd moved from Iowa, where his great-grandfather revolutionized home appliances with the introduction of the electric washing machine ― revolutionized beer.

Forget the business about it being a "San Francisco original since 1896." Anchor as we know it has been around since 1965, when, in its first decade, the brand not only cleaned up its trademarked steam beer (a lager brewed with ale yeast at warmer temperatures), but introduced the first modern porter, the first modern dry-hopped beer (Liberty Ale), the first modern barleywine (Old Foghorn), and first modern spiced seasonal offering (Our Special Ale, aka Anchor Christmas). All before any other microbrewery had even sprung up (The first would be Sonoma's short-lived New Albion Brewery, in 1976). The first modern wheat beer, Anchor's Summer Beer, debuted in 1983. Today, dry-hopping pale or India pale ales is commonplace, as are dark-roasted stouts and porters, but only because of the chain reaction Anchor ignited.

Now, after 45 years, news broke this week that Maytag, 72, sold the company he created to Griffin Group partners Keith Greggor, 55, and Tony Foglio, 64.

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Miz Lynn's Pies Bring Bites of New England and the South to S.F.

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 11:56 AM

TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
Ernest East started baking pies in San Francisco 13 years ago under the name Piney's Baking Company, and redubbed himself Miz Lynn's Pies in 2000 as a tribute to a cousin who inspires him. We think East's miniature pecan and sweet potato pies are fine examples of the Southern staples, if admittedly "reworked for a more health-conscious, San Francisco flavor" according to the Web site. But his latest, a New England-style lemon chess pie, is both more unusual around these parts and the quietly sweet-tart star of the Miz Lynn's product line.

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Upper Haight Farmers' Market Debuts in Golden Gate Park

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 10:23 AM

A market in the trees.
  • A market in the trees.

Yesterday marked the launch of the new Upper Haight Farmers' Market on an unused access road/parking lot just off Stanyan at Waller. Market organizers estimate that 1,500 people showed up to shop in the shadow of cedars and eucalyptus trees ― not bad considering the recurring showers.

The market is part of the Pacific Coast Farmers' Market Association, which runs seven other neighborhood markets in the city and 49 more around the Bay Area. It's the first farmers market to be held on San Francisco Rec and Park land, made possible last fall when Supervisor Ross Mirkarimi pushed through legislation dropping rental fees.

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Can't Decide on Dinner? How About a Big Serving of Smartass

Posted By on Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 8:45 AM

wtfdinner.png
One night, about six or seven years ago, we were riding a 14 Mission and the guy sitting across from us ― a small, pale, faintly stubbled lad in dark shades ― had perched atop his head a huge green trucker hat with "Whatthefuckareyoulookingat.com" printed clearly across the front. Naturally, we tried to stare through him for the rest of the ride, hoping that behind his opaque glasses, he was either fuming or riddled with glee. We'd like to think that the fellow got his act together, went to culinary school, and started this site.

There's not much to say about Whatthefuckshouldimakefordinner.com that the site won't say very plainly for itself. We just rejected four straight suggestions (miso chicken, fettuccine with shrimp, chicken kebabs, soft scrambled eggs with ricotta and herbs), and the fifth idea (porcini chicken with wild rice and wheat berries) came couched in vaguely threatening rhetoric.

What's funny about this site though is that, while you're wasting time at work, it might actually give you an idea of what to cook for dinner.

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