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Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Are Food-Focused Arizona Boycotts for Reals?

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 6:36 PM

Calls to boycott Cold Stone Creamery stores like the one in Fisherman's Wharf (pictured) have gone unheeded. - WISEFLY/FLICKR
  • wisefly/Flickr
  • Calls to boycott Cold Stone Creamery stores like the one in Fisherman's Wharf (pictured) have gone unheeded.
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

Cool to protest: Could efforts to boycott Arizona over the immigration law Governor Jan Brewer signed last Friday be seeping into your food? New York Times blog The Lede wondered earlier whether calls to boycott Arizona Iced Tea ― a company based on Long Island ― were real or jokey ("I think we should all also boycott Arizona Iced Tea because it is the drink of fascists," Chicago writer Travis Nichols opined via Twitter yesterday; New York's Daily News took him at his tweet.)

Meanwhile, mix-in master Cold Stone Creamery, a company that is headquartered in Arizona, is on Internet lists of the boycott-worthy, although calls to San Francisco's two outlets didn't turn up as much as a single spurned cone.

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Caribeño Cocktail at Smuggler's Cove

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 6:35 PM

Shiver me timbers. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Shiver me timbers.
As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.

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Old Mint Rolls Out Three Weekends of Culinary Events

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 5:37 PM

Some events you won't be able to afford. Others cost just $10.
  • Some events you won't be able to afford. Others cost just $10.
The Old Mint is closed to the public and only sporadically open for private events, but the San Francisco Museum and Historical Society has planned an exhibit and series of events to give unprecedented access to the gorgeous and ornate interior we were lucky enough to glimpse last December at SFMHS' holiday high tea. Fortunately, it's all centered around local food.

The festivities kick off on May 13 with "Cookin' the Mint," an epic dinner, reception, and dessert after-party honoring culinary notables Nancy Oakes, Bill Niman, Charles Phan, Judy Rodgers, and Bill Fujimoto. Tickets are steep for those of us who don't happen to be minted (actual cost: $500 and up), but will preview an ambitious public program to come in May that will be ten bucks a day.

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Mixt Greens Guy's 'Sweet' Salad: Haricot Verts with Sweetbread Croutons

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 4:44 PM

Andrew Swallow, founder of the Mixt Greens empire, has co-authored a cookbook devoted to salads. - BITTERMELON/FLICKR
  • bittermelon/Flickr
  • Andrew Swallow, founder of the Mixt Greens empire, has co-authored a cookbook devoted to salads.
Mixt Salads: A Chef's Bold Creations by Andrew Swallow with Ann Volkwein showcases the story and recipes of Swallow, whose organic eatery Mixt Greens enjoys three locations in San Francisco as well as outposts in Los Angeles and now Washington, D.C. The book discusses basic techniques and tips, such as making vinaigrette and choosing greens properly, and includes minimal yet flavor-focused recipes divided by season. Considering that salads are entree-priced and cost between $9-$12 at Mixt Greens (ie. not exactly cheap), the book can be a cost-saver over time. It gives us a lot of ideas on how to get the five-a-day flowing in a more delicious manner, yet a number of recipes also incorporate meat.

Swallow and Volkwein caution that this dish needs to be prepared a day or evening ahead of time, and how many home cooks will go to the lengths of prepping sweetbreads for a salad? Probably not too many. But, given one's got a relative comfort level with offal in the kitchen, the recipe he's shared with us doesn't appear too difficult to execute, and could be a meal's show-stealer. Get cooking after the jump.

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Restaurant Owners Hope Lifted Moratorium Will Create Dining Destination for 24th St.

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 3:44 PM

Contigo's Brett Emerson (with fiancée Elan Drucker). - THE INADVERTENT GARDENER/FLICKR
  • The Inadvertent Gardener/Flickr
  • Contigo's Brett Emerson (with fiancée Elan Drucker).
How do existing restaurateurs feel about the possibility of increased competition on 24th Street? With yesterday's unanimous vote by the Board of Supervisors, the 1987 moratorium on new restaurant locations in Noe Valley is essentially history (a final procedural vote is scheduled for next week). The moratorium meant that the number of eateries along 24th Street was capped. With that gone, the Planning Commission will weigh new applications as they come up, meaning there could be a bump-up in the number of restaurants on 24th.

"That's great news," said Brett Emerson, chef-owner of Contigo, which opened on Castro at 24th just about a year ago. "We'd love to see 24th Street more of a restaurant destination." Fresca chef Jose Calvo-Perez seconded that. "It makes 24th Street more of a destination area and boosts the economy," said Calvo-Perez, whose father Julio opened the Noe Valley Fresca six years ago. "I would welcome any more businesses who want to come in."

But Brad Levy, who opened Firefly on 24th at Douglass 17 years ago, cautioned against what he sees as the wrong kind of restaurants flooding the 'hood.

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Range's Pork Three Ways with Japanese-Inspired Pork Jus

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 2:35 PM

Phil West of Range.
  • Phil West of Range.
A regular feature in which SFoodie

calls a local chef to ask what he or she is putting on the

menu that night, and

what inspired its creation.

Phil West, chef-owner of the Mission bistro Range, sounds much like you'd imagine he would after reading over his menu: thoughtful and sincere, a man who rewards the person who stops to listen to what he has to say. We'd communicated over e-mail before reaching each other on the phone, and he'd been thinking about which of his new dishes was most appropriate to talk about.

His choice: Pork sausage, glazed rib, braised belly with carrot purée, pea shoots, and pickled shallots ($24). More specifically, one part of the dish.

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Go VIP with Limited, Handmade Ramen at Namu

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 1:22 PM

Go behind the velvet rope. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Go behind the velvet rope.
Sitting down for dinner at Namu in the Richmond District last night, we remembered how much our friend Meredith Brody loved the burger. It's an unlikely item for an Asian restaurant to sport, but we ordered it to share with another friend and were glad to have taken her advice. But we were still there for something more traditional, and as we both scanned the menu independently, our imaginations were collectively captured by "handmade ramen noodles, pork miso broth, katsu, deep fried egg, daily green vegetable, bean sprouts, kimchee (6 orders available daily)."

At $16, it's certainly not the cheapest bowl in the city, but it might be the most exclusive, and that was admittedly part of the allure that hooked us two former disco dollies. VIP ramen!

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Don't Sound Like a Tool: How to Pronounce Common Filipino Dishes

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 11:22 AM

hednotool.jpg
Don't Sound Like a Tool is SFoodie's series of audio

pronunciation guides to sort-of-common-but-not-obvious words we keep

encountering on wine lists and menus. No more shame, no more pointing,

no more godawful imitations of a language you don't speak.

As an extra to last week's review of Patio Filipino in San Bruno, we figured it was only appropriate to devote this week's installment of Don't Sound Like a Tool to Filipino dishes. Yeah, we all know to pronounce adobo, but what about the ginataang pictured below? Because you know you want to order it.

KIMBERLY SANDIE
  • Kimberly Sandie

We asked Robert Reyes to read off a list of dishes mentioned in the review, as well as a few common Filipino favorites you may see around the area.

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Jonathan Kauffman on Frances: Big Buzz, Modest Ambitions

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 11:02 AM

P. K./YELP
How can a restaurant have everything going for it ― bicoastal buzz, polished staff, previously starred chef, solid bookings ― and still leave a critic wanting more?

That's the question SF Weekly's Jonathan Kauffman explores today, as he parses recent meals at Frances. Chef Melissa Perello has perfected purely modest food, Kauffman argues. Nothing wrong with that ― some of S.F.'s most celebrated kitchens have built national reputations on it. Except, as a diner, don't you have a right to expect more after enduring a three-month wait for reservations?

Read Kauffman's thoroughly honest explication (excerpt after the jump) at SFWeekly.com. Feel free to comment here with your own thoughts.

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Update: Yes, You Can Find Mutton, Depending on How You Define It

Posted By on Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 9:42 AM

marin_sun_farms_logo.gif
In Monday's edition of Ask the Critic, I responded to a question from P.J., who was searching for mutton (meat from older sheep) to make a proper Kentucky burgoo. All the butchers I spoke to said that there's no such thing on the market. After the post went up, a reader Tweeted me a link to Marin Sun Farms' Web site. Indeed, the producer of local sustainably raised meat advertises that it sells mutton from older ewes.

Yesterday I called Marin Sun Farms' butcher shop to get more information.

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