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Tuesday, April 27, 2010

What to Have for Lunch Today: Pupusas Revueltas from Usulutan

Posted By on Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 7:30 AM

Pupusa platter with curtido and salsa ($6.50). - REPOSARYAN/FLICKR
  • reposaryan/Flickr
  • Pupusa platter with curtido and salsa ($6.50).
Tues., April 27, 2010

click to enlarge REPOSARYAN/FLICKR
Twenty-Fourth Street is changing, and changing fast. The commercial strip that successfully held off the encroach of ironic

sunglasses and organic produce the longest is now finding a new balance

between Latino and non-Latino businesses. Dim knickknack shops have become Third Wave cafes, halal meat markets transformed into upscale sandwich shops.

Brood over the intersection of Mission That Was and the Mission That May Be from a window-side seat at this friendly, rambling Salvadoran restaurant. The cooks' pupusas revueltas, which bleed cheese onto the griddle with every press of the spatula, can be a little light on the shredded pork. But the curtido, or cabbage slaw, is plentiful and good, shot through with a mellow acidity and heavily flecked with oregano. Heap the curtido high on the masa cake, ladle over a few spoonfuls of tomato salsa, and then cut into the pupusa. As you lift up your fork, pause for a moment to sever the strings of melted cheese that tether the pupusa wedge to the plate. And once you've eaten your fill of your $6.50 lunch, walk across the street and spend the rest of your cash on a scoop of Humphry Slocombe's salt and pepper ice cream. Mission accomplished.

Usulutan 2990 24th St. (at Harrison), 824-9968

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Jonathan Kauffman


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