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John Birdsall
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Philip Roland is boiling and baking again.
Like a roommate dispute turned funky, Philip Roland and Jennifer Westmoreland
rolled up Roland's Bakery in Lower Haight last February, citing irreconcilable ugliness with the landlord. On Saturday they resurfaced in Hayes Valley as Terra Bakery and Café, with
new partners and a substantial café menu, but with the same handmade bagels Roland created a sort of cult of carbs with. The former Essencia space at Gough and Hayes now skews no-frills café, with a wide-ranging menu of salads, sandwiches, and entrées that span braised short ribs and veggie pad thai. There's weekend brunch, too, but really: We're pretty sure any Sunday-morning offering of steak and eggs will devolve into an excuse for smearing butter on one of Roland's wonderfully chewy, airy-chambered sesame bagels.
Now open:
Terra Bakery and Café 401 Gough (at Hayes), 863-2233
