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Thursday, April 22, 2010

You Can Take the Chef Out of San Francisco...

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 5:00 PM

Ahem.
  • Ahem.
On 7x7's Bits and Bites blog today, Charlotte Druckman interviews New York chefs who made their bones in San Francisco before moving cross-coast. Some, like ex-Jack Falstaff chef Jonnatan Leiva, claim the two cities' culinary scenes are more alike than fig-gate suggested:
There's always the talk that San Francisco has the better product and

New York has depth in techniques--but between us cooks, there is a real

sense of respect for one another.

Others, like A16's former chef, Nate Appleman, are all too eager to dismiss their former city:

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Starchefs.com Names Its 2010 Rising Stars

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 3:28 PM

SPQR's Matthew Accarrino is on the rise.
  • SPQR's Matthew Accarrino is on the rise.
Starchefs.com just named the 14 winners of its 2010 "Rising Stars" Awards for the San Francisco Bay Area. The touring awards, which recognize chefs, bartenders (unfortunately titled "mixologists"), and restaurateurs under the age of 40, is always an interesting counterpoint to the national James Beard restaurant awards. Starchef often recognizes the sous chefs, pastry chefs, and chefs de cuisine behind the marquee names, the ones who often run the place.

According to the Starchefs Web site, the Rising Star awards travel from city to city every year, profiling four different cities each time. (The last time Starchefs hit San Francisco was 2007, though last year it honored Napa and Sonoma pros). Nominations apparently come from chefs, previous winners, food writers, and other interested parties. The judges then come to the city to interview 50-60 nominees and taste their food or drinks.

The awards will be celebrated with several events: a speaking panel featuring past award winners on June 14, followed by a public gala and industry-only afterparty on June 16. This year's winners after the jump:

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Easygoing Crowd, Plenty of Elbow Room at Lush Lounge

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 3:15 PM

MRKH M./YELP
The place: Lush Lounge, 1221 Polk (at Fern), 771-2022

The hours: Mon.-Fri., 3-7 p.m., Sat.-Sun. noon-7 p.m.

The deals: Cans of Tecate and PBR $2, Sycamore Lane wines by the glass $3, glasses of champagne $4, shot of well whiskey with a PBR back $5, specialty cocktails $5-$6. No eats.

The digs: The post-relocation Lush is roomy, even at the peak of Thursday happy hour, when the place is well-peopled with a mix of after-work Dockers-wearers, groups of gals downing $4 champagne, and a multi-generational mix of gay guys. There's a tall concrete fireplace with a vaguely Goth gargoyle motif, a mezzanine for mostly inconspicuous crowd surveys, and the kind of loftlike dimensions that keep a place from feeling cramped. A 21st-century update of the classic fern bar.

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Tonight in the Castro: Dirty Dishes Hosts Its Third Street-Food and Music Party

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 2:30 PM

PEARL'S KITCHEN
  • Pearl's Kitchen
Calling all espionage artists, bubbies, and harlots: A trio of relatively new food carts will be featured at tonight's installment of the monthly party "Dirty Dishes." Pot pies from Ninja Pie Cart, Jewish comfort food from Pearl's Kitchen, and hot liquids from Soup Slut (who is apparently contemplating a name change) are on the menu. Meanwhile, resident DJs B-Haul and Gordon Gartrell, with guest selector One-Z, will offer a kitchen sink of electro, bass, hip-hop, and edgy house beats for the "dirty" part of Dirty Dishes.

Event details:

Dirty Dishes

Date: Thurs., Apr. 22, 9 p.m.

Location: Lookout, 3600 16th St. (at Noe), 431-0106

Cost: $2 cover

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Out the Door's Argument-Worthy Ginger Snaps

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 1:30 PM

TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
While we've come to know the various locations of Charles Phan's Out the Door as decent places for dessert, the mini-chain's crystallized ginger snap cookies ($5) are a revelation. They're pleasingly crisp and dark due to the use of molasses, but the little strips of candied rhizome embedded in the cookies keep stealing the show.

These snaps would make a nice addition to one of the restaurant's impressive-looking to-go dinner kits. By way of warning, though, each bag is likely to be a grappling point with your clued-in friends, since some cookies have more candied ginger than others.

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Hapa Ramen Previews Its Noodles on May 8

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 12:00 PM

JESSE FRIEDMAN/BEER & NOSH
  • Jesse Friedman/Beer & Nosh
At this point, bands deliberately leak songs before their albums drop. If they don't themselves, someone else will, usually posting files of inferior quality. Sneaky food bloggers can't quite do the same, prematurely scattering morsels of a new restaurant's offerings across the Web. Could get messy (even if breaking into a chef's test kitchen weren't required). Still, some upcoming operations go out of the way to give a hungry public previews.

Take, for example, Hapa Ramen, the noodle-and-stock endeavor of Richie Nakano and Kitty Gallisa, respectively sous-chef and bartender at Nopa. Slated to open by mid-June on Thursdays in a stand at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Hapa Ramen is giving its wares a formal test-drive at Potrero Hill's Coffee Bar (1890 Bryant at Mariposa) on Sat., May 8 from 6-9 p.m. A February post ran down Beer & Nosh's photo essay on a previous Hapa Ramen tasting, and reported, "Nakano's test bowls were packed with braised greens, crispy pork, fried chicken nuggets, eggs cooked sous vide, and pork shoulder." We can't wait to download that.

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Timballo di Maccheroni from Quince

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 11:03 AM

The timbalo di maccheroni: Like a walled castle made of deliciousness. - STEPH L./YELP
  • Steph L./Yelp
  • The timbalo di maccheroni: Like a walled castle made of deliciousness.
As a daily windup

to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out

92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the

tasty details after the jump.

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Stone Fruit Galette from Bi-Rite's Kris Hoogerhyde

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 10:30 AM

Kris Hoogerhyde. - MARY LADD
  • Mary Ladd
  • Kris Hoogerhyde.
Kris Hoogerhyde's Stone Fruit Galette

Yields one 10" galette

"So here is one of my favorite recipes. With the galette dough recipe, you can easily change the fruit or even put savory things in it. You could trim the dough into a neat round, but we prefer the rustic look of jaggedy edges ― and leaving it untrimmed ensures that not a bit of the buttery dough goes to waste." ―Bi-Rite Creamery managing partner Kris Hoogerhyde

Dough:

11 ¼ ounces all-purpose flour (2 1/2 cups)

12 tablespoons cold butter, cut into ½-inch pieces

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup ice-cold water

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I Am Cinematic: Cafe Gratitude-Centric Documentary Might Be Preachy, But Inspirational

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 9:00 AM

Frank Ferrante, a 54-year-old Brooklyn transplant, looks like the last person who would wander into a Cafe Gratitude and stay there without the use of handcuffs, but the documentary May I Be Frank shows how the perceptively preachy vegan mini-chain helped him achieve a healthier body and outlook on life in just over a month. While our suspicions are as-ever aroused by the whole Gratitude ethos, the film looks like a fish-out-of-water story worth seeing. Proceeds from both screenings will benefit San Rafael-based nonprofit Beyond Hunger.

Event details:

May I Be Frank Screenings

Date: Thurs., Apr. 22, 6:30 p.m.

Location: Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center (1118 Fourth St. at A, San Rafael)

Cost: $20/$40 (including post-film discussion/reception)

Reservations: Advance tickets available online

Date: Thurs., May 13, 6:30 p.m.

Location: Bridge Theatre (3010 Geary at Fillmore)

Cost: TBA

Reservations: Advance tickets available online

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What to Have for Lunch Today: Pierna Torta at La Torta Sabrosa

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 7:30 AM

Pierna torta ($6.50). - ANDY B./FLICKR
  • Andy B./Flickr
  • Pierna torta ($6.50).
Thurs., April 22, 2010

ANDY B./FLICKR
  • Andy B./Flickr
If you've spent a few days in Mexico City, you've passed hundreds of corner shops like La Torta Sabrosa, with windows covered in pictures of fruit, a high-speed juicer buzzing louder than a construction crew, and a cook assembling high-hatted, light tortas. At this Mission Street sandwich and juice shop, the pierna (pork) sandwich is painstakingly constructed: The cook sets a football-sized roll in the press grill to crisp and stripe while he dumps chopped pork on the griddle, then moves to the vegetable bar to layer tomatoes, onions, pickled peppers, and avocado on a frilly leaf of lettuce. When the pork begins to steam, he presses shredded Oaxacan cheese onto the top half of the bread and flips it over onto the grill, where it hisses and melts, and spreads sour cream on the bottom. Finally, the moment comes to bring it all together: flipping the cheese-covered bread over, heaping on the pork, lifting the lettuce raft onto the bread, pressing the top on. Your patience is rewarded with a torta as light and crisp as a banh mi.

La Torta Sabrosa #2 2859 Mission (at 24th St.), 826-5622

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