Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Calling Bullshit on Eater's Crusade to Bust Restaurant Critics

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:24 PM

One-time New York Times critic Ruth Reichl in disguise.
  • One-time New York Times critic Ruth Reichl in disguise.
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

To catch a d-bag: Tim Carman of Washington City Paper calls Eater a dick for its initiative to unmask food critics. Eater National's Greg Morabito, you see, has this ongoing obsession he calls "To Catch A Critic," in which he urges readers and restaurateurs to bust professional food critics (who operate anonymously) by publishing their pics. (A certain former Eater SF editor obliged locally, by the way, with gotcha photos of Chron's Michael Bauer.) Morabito:

Somehow, a fair amount of critics have successfully avoided having their photographs made public. So with that in mind, we've assembled a handy guide to spotting some of the country's biggest anonymous restaurant critics, including the best possible photos we could find.
He reveals pics of the New York Times' Sam Sifton, the Washington Post's Tom Sietsema, even Patty Unterman of the Examiner. Carman's response? An open letter hot with irony:

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Pal's Takeaway Marks One-Year Anniversary Friday with Sliders

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:00 PM

Jeff Mason (left) and Dave Knopp. - JESSE FRIEDMAN/BEER & NOSH
  • Jesse Friedman/Beer & Nosh
  • Jeff Mason (left) and Dave Knopp.
Pal's Takeaway is celebrating its one-year anniversary Friday with a slider fest. Not so much a fest, really, as a normal day of business, only one filled with three types of mini sandwiches. Pal's Jeff Mason says there'll be a slow-roasted and pulled Becker Lane pork number, an American Kobe corned beef, and a house-smoked whitefish slider. "It's the kind you get from Russ & Daughters in New York," Mason said of the latter, "Lake Superior whitefish, brined for maybe an hour. Dave [Knopp, Mason's partner] smokes them really slow, so they have a lovely unctuous flavor." The sliders will be priced individually, with a break if you order all three.

As for surviving a first year that coincided with the Great Recession, Mason said it's been a challenge. "It's hard to change the menu every day, hard to think of things to put between bread." Still, he said, he feels blessed to have made it.

Pal's Takeaway In Tony's Market, 2751 24th St. (at Hampshire), 203-4911

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Pinkie's and Bento 415 Announce New Space in SOMA; 4505 Meats Finds Temporary Kitchen

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 4:38 PM

The site currently housing Ideal Cafe (pictured) will allow Bento 415 actual restaurant space. - BEN N./YELP
  • Ben N./Yelp
  • The site currently housing Ideal Cafe (pictured) will allow Bento 415 actual restaurant space.
Looks like the landlord ripple that threatened to leave Pinkie's Bakery, Bento 415, and 4505 Meats out on the sidewalk is resolved. (As we originally reported, John Campbell's Irish Bakery is taking over the kitchen and retail space the three business shared.) Today, Tablehopper is reporting that Pinkie's and Bento have finalized a lease in SOMA at what's now the Ideal Café & Deli at 1198 Folsom (at Eighth St.). With a pair of side-by-side kitchens, the two businesses will be able to carry on the symbiosis that worked for them in Potrero, and then some. Bento will have an actual restaurant (lunch, dinner, brunch), due June 1. Pinkie's bakery counter is aiming for mid-May. Meanwhile, 4505's Ryan Farr told us he's secured production space on Bayshore for the next 3-6 months. Previously, Farr told us he's looking for a permanent space that would give him retail space of his own.

As for Ideal, it's last day is Friday, and it's uncertain whether the owners will seek a new location.

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

Mission Street Food's PB & J

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 3:34 PM

TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Latest National Security Threat: The Whopper

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 3:10 PM

Alice Waters and red-state defense hawks might finallly have something in common. - CHP - NWHF/FLICKR
  • CHP - NWHF/Flickr
  • Alice Waters and red-state defense hawks might finallly have something in common.
All that artificially cheap corn-fed mystery meat, neon orange processed cheese, soft white bread, and watery sauced spaghetti in shitty school lunches might be accomplishing something their politicized opponents would actually applaud: hamstringing military recruitment.

This morning, the Associated Press revealed that Mission: Readiness, a group made up of retired Army, Navy, and Air Force officers, is fearful that school lunches have overstuffed America's youth to the point where too few of them can meet the military's standards for physical fitness. Weight issues are now the number one reason why recruits don't make the cut. The group's new report says nearly 27 percent of Americans between the ages of 17 and 24 are too overweight to join the military.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Bi-Rite Creamery's Kris Hoogerhyde: The SFoodie Interview, Part 1

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 1:10 PM

Kris Hoogerhyde. - MARY LADD
  • Mary Ladd
  • Kris Hoogerhyde.
Like the Mission burrito and the Haight Street hobo, Bi-Rite Creamery's salted caramel ice cream has become an attraction with national appeal. SFoodie contributor Mary Ladd recently grabbed some Q&A time with one of its creators, Bi-Rite managing partner Kris Hoogerhyde. Three and a half years ago, Hoogerhyde and partner Anne Walker ― with backing from Bi-Rite Market founder Sam Mogannam ― turned a former plant rental company on 18th Street into today's Creamery.

Raised in Michigan, Hoogerhyde traces her food love to London, where she took post-college jobs, first in a pub, later in a restaurant. She made the move to S.F. in 1994, landed jobs at Gordon Biersch and as front-of-house manager at Slow Club. Hoogerhyde was Walker's assistant pastry chef at 42 Degrees. When the place tanked, Hoogerhyde and Walker launched their own business, baking sweets for the case at Bi-Rite Market, including cookies and the now-famous chocolate pot de crème. "We were renting kitchen space from another bakery," Hoogerhyde recalls. "After three years we were like, 'We just need to find our own home.'"

Ice cream was the last thing on their minds.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

Happy Endings' Bacon-Wrapped Mercury Dawg a Late-Night Hit

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 11:26 AM

MARISOL SEGAL.
  • Marisol Segal.
Happy Endings Kitchen is the late-night Filipino-influenced menu served from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays at Mercury Lounge. We stopped by post-concert last Friday around 1 a.m., ears still ringing, only to be greeted by the welcome (if loud) and impassioned singing of Lisa Lisa and other '80s freestyle divas.

It was raucous in there, but the service was still markedly friendly as we got down to ordering. Some clearly nice meat in the pork sisig nachos ($9) was obscured by distinctively icky fake cheese sauce, and the sweet potato fries ($7) had a pleasing crispness but cost about twice as much as they should, but there was one item that proved to be a solid value for taste and price. The Mercury Dawg ($5), a bacon-wrapped, kimchi-laden hot dog, could have used even more of the magical Sriracha sauce on top for us heat heathens, but still made its spicy, vinegared point well. It hasn't made us swear off street food that's actually from the street, but it's a good option for the wee hours.

Happy Endings Kitchen at Mercury Lounge 1582 Folsom (at 12th St.), 551-1582; Fri.-Sat. 10 p.m.-2 a.m.

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

Whole Foods Now Offering Kombucha on Tap in S.F.

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 10:17 AM

rsz_kombucha.jpg

vegnewspresspass.blogspot.com

Whole Foods rolled out kombucha on tap here at the 2009 Outside Lands festival.
Don't hurl expensive half-green Mexican cherry tomatoes at us because we stopped by the Whole Foods in Potrero Hill to buy some grass-fed steak and salad fixings. As we approached cautiously, furtively glancing around to see if anyone we knew might be spying on us, we noticed a stack of large brown glass jugs lined up along the front window on the bottom "coffeeshop" floor. Growlers, we thought excitedly, recalling the half-gallons of beer we'd purchased at the Bowery Whole Foods' beer room and sucked down in a Lower East Side alley a few years back. Growlers are king shit in New York City ― at least that's what a January 2010 Times article made clear ― big with Greenpoint hipsters and Park Slope dads alike. If Whole Foods started selling draft brew to-go in New York in 2007, San Francisco should be getting hooked up right about ... now.

Apparently not. Market trend research probably told some folks over at Whole Foods central command that San Franciscans, despite sharing real estate with some of the country's best indie brewers, would rather drink fermented tea than fresh beer. Yes, that's right ― there's a kombucha bar at Whole Foods.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

Stable Cafe's Pomba, a Lovely Vehicle for Bacon

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:00 AM

SILLY JILLY/FLICKR
Stable Cafe's pomba ($6) is a well-executed take on the classic egg-in-the-hole dish, made more gluttonous with the crucial addition of a piece of bacon and generous slice of brie on top. We cut the whole thing into pieces, but the button of hollowed-out bread is thoughtfully included in case you want to attempt to devour a runny sandwich. The pomba is only available at breakfast, but might well be on the minds of carb-lovers all day.

Stable Cafe 2128 Folsom (at 17th St), 552-1199

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

CCA Hosts Free All-Day Bean-In

Posted By on Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 8:30 AM

KATBARO/FLICKR
Despite its nutritional payload and role as a staple in diets all over the globe, the bean remains humble. From French Le Puy lentils gussied up with herbs and a mound of charcuterie to molten chickpea curries, regardless of how they're prepared and in what context they're served, beans are food for real people ― even when they come from Rancho Gordo and cost $6 per pound.

In his serial stew sessions at Gravel & Gold, local food and art raconteur Mark Andrew Gravel has always exhibited an almost startling affection for the bean. Today from 9 a.m. until 9 p.m., he's putting his unrelenting advocacy on display at CCA's San Francisco campus. Bean-In, the brainchild of Gravel and cohorts Sarah Magrish Cline and Natasha Wheat, is a temporary (and free) eatery offering bean-based meals, micro-lectures, and conversations in what Gravel characterizes as an examination of "conviviality, adaptability and agriculture as forms of resistance." The menu? Beans on toast. Chilled bean soup. Bean and bread salad. Bean and vegetable salad.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"