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John Birdsall
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Onion soupe gratinée ($7).
Thurs., April 15, 2010
Its saline level rivals that of a
Camargue salt flat, and there's a good chance you'll be picking papery onion skin off your tongue, but
The Butler's gratinéed onion soup offers textural comforts all the same. Fused to its bread slice, the cap of melted Gruyère falls halfway between custard and rubber, over a dark broth semi-concealing knots of soft onion. If your cup is anything like the one pictured here, you'll be able to warm your hands against it long after you've set up on a picnic bench in South Park ― ours was hot enough to turn a disposable spoon all
Stretch Armstrong wonky in minutes. Grab a backup.
The Butler and The Chef Bistro 155a South Park (at Third St.), 896-2174
