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Wednesday, April 14, 2010

What to Have for Lunch Today: Beef Pho from My Father's Kitchen

Posted By on Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 7:30 AM

click to enlarge No. 7, pho bo tai nam (small, $7). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • No. 7, pho bo tai nam (small, $7).
Weds., April 14, 2010

click to enlarge GENEVIEVE Y./YELP
Henry Nguyen's tribute to the northern-style pho he grew up with in Haiphong is among the city's most delicate of Vietnamese noodle soups. Forget the Technicolor add-ins of Asian basil, rau ram, mint, hoisin (all conspicuously absent here). Nguyen's No. 7, pho bo tai nam, is a dead-simple assemblage of toothy rice noodles in semi-clear bone broth, a few onion slivers, and slices of cooked flank and pinky-rare rib eye ― a beefy duality that juxtaposes the tallowy richness of the former with the blood-tinged tang of the latter. A squeeze of lemon and the spiky green thrill of jalapeño slices is all the color it needs.

My Father's Kitchen/Pho Phuong Hong 1655 Divisadero (at Sutter), 829-2610

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