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Thursday, April 8, 2010

Are Korean Tacos the Ultimate California Cuisine?

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:28 PM

The MoGo BBQ truck in Mountain View: pure Cali. - ASHA S./YELP
  • Asha S./Yelp
  • The MoGo BBQ truck in Mountain View: pure Cali.
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

Mobile fusion: California Taco Trucks' Cyrus Farivar grabbed some Q&A time with Sam Pak recently. Pak's the founder of the Korean truck MoGo BBQ, which has been slinging kalbi tacos, etc., in the South Bay. Pak says ― like Curry Up Now, which is just now rolling its second truck into San Francisco ― MoGo is working things out in the 'burbs before launching a designated city truck. One of Farivar's questions: What the hell is the allure of the Korean taco? Pak:

The reason Korean tacos have generated so much buzz, besides the fact that they're delicious, is because they're a uniquely Californian food. They can only exist in this kind of environment, where we have different types of ethnic communities and foods coming together. This kind of experimental fusion cuisine has normally been the domain of high-end restaurateurs. We're kind of turning that idea on its head by making it available to the masses in a taco truck.
Read the rest of Farivar's interview here. And check out Jonathan Kauffman's Twitter guide to Korean trucks on the Peninsula.

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Tomorrow: Giants Opening Day Tailgate with Gator's Back Porch BBQ

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 5:43 PM

This is our idea of a home run. - GATOR THOMPSON
  • Gator Thompson
  • This is our idea of a home run.
Glenn "Gator" Thompson, chef/owner of the now-defunct Dollie Marie's restaurant in San Mateo, will bring his Gator's Back Porch BBQ to San Francisco tomorrow for a Giants opening day tailgate party with live music and menu featuring "apple-smoked sticky fingers baby back ribs" and Bloody Marys beginning at the crack of dawn (okay, 8:30 a.m.).

It should be a good and possibly rare opportunity to sample Thompson's cooking without a good little drive. Via Chowhound, we learn that Thompson recently told writer GraceAnn Walden he's taking over executive chef duties at San Jose restaurant Agenda Lounge.

"I will be bringing my healthy, Southern style to the South Bay without the headache of being the owner," he told Walden.

Did someone say baseball? We're thinking barbecue.

Event details:

Gator's Back Porch BBQ's Opening Day Tailgate Party

Date: Fri., April 9, 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Location: Jelly's at Pier 50 (295 Terry Francois)

Cost: Free (but bring money for food)

Reservations: It may be too late to reserve a picnic table, but you can try by calling (925) 360-0909

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Ruth Reichl's Coming to the JCC to Gab About Mom

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 5:25 PM

momreichl.jpg
At a Gourmet-sponsored event at Copia years ago, some guests were a little surprised at how soft spoken Ruth Reichl can be onstage. Find out for yourself later this month, when Reichl will be on stage at the S.F. Jewish Community Center, talking about her latest book, For You Mom, Finally (Penguin Press, $13). Reichl is the author of Comfort Me with Apples, Tender at the Bone, Not Becoming My Mother: and Other Things She Taught Me Along the Way, and Garlic and Sapphires. Her new book is a reflection on her mother's life, and the sacrifices and pain an older generation of women endured. The 11 a.m. start time on a Tuesday means you'll have to blow off work that morning, or go to lunch afterward and ditch the office altogether.

Event details:

Ruth Reichl at the JCCSF: For You Mom, Finally

Date: Tues., April 20, 11 a.m.

Location: Kanbar Hall, Jewish Community Center of San Francisco, 3200 California (at Presidio)

Cost: $10-$18

Tickets: Purchase online, or call 292-1233

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Dynamo's Cornmeal Cherry Rosemary Doughnut

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 4:39 PM

Cornmeal, minus the cornbread density. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Cornmeal, minus the cornbread density.
As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here.

Number 29: Cornmeal Cherry Rosemary Doughnut from Dynamo

The genius of Dynamo? Engineering doughnuts true to the tradition of swivel-stool, worn-Formica, Bunn-machine diners, but with airy textures, gorgeous perfumes, or both. And while ― sure ― Dynamo's maple glazed bacon apple was our own personal liminal ritual into the realm of the post-prefab sinker, we've grown up, which is why now we're into the cornmeal cherry rosemary. Abandon your notions of cornbread density: These aren't far down the lightness scale from Krispy Kremes, with only a molar-resisting grainlet or two to let you know cornmeal's involved. Fragments of dried cherry offer up tannin-laced aroma, not chewy nuggets. And the odd fresh rosemary needle is a resinous surprise, but not so much that we'd ever hesitate dunking the thing into our paper cup of Four Barrel, diner style.

Dynamo Donut and Coffee 2760 24th St. (at York), 920-1978

Craving more? Check out these previous links to our countdown (after the jump):

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Saturday's Eatrip Film Premiere to Feature Peko-Peko Afterparty

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 3:39 PM

eatrip_poster.sample.jpg
TsukuBlog calls the Japanese documentary Eatrip "a journey throughout Japan looking at how life can be led optimally through the daily ritual of eating," from Tokyo's epic Tsukiji, to an Okinawa farm whose owner eats way off the grid. The film's U.S. premiere is Saturday at Viz Cinema in Japantown's New People complex. Director Yuri Nomura will be there. So will Sylvan Mishima Brackett ― for the post-viewing party and food buffet ― with his Oakland-based Japanese catering company Peko-Peko.

Brackett says Nomura is bringing fresh-cured katsuobushi ― the smoked bonito that's the basis for dashi ― and salted cherry blossoms from Japan. "She's bringing a whole bag of other stuff with her," Brackett says. Her mother, apparently, makes some kind of pickled walnut thing. As for Peko-Peko, it'll construct a sashimi salad with local halibut, maybe a soup of Tomales Bay clams and broth made from Nomura's katsuobushi. Something with early-season fava beans, too ― onigiri (rice balls) perhaps. Sounds, well, like an evening spent optimally, filled with the kind of eating that exceeds daily ritual. Joto sake will provide the drinks. Ticket info after the jump.

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Why Don't More Restaurants Sell Bottles of Wine From Their List?

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 12:45 PM

Oakland's A Côté has been retailing wines off its list since 2001.
  • Oakland's A Côté has been retailing wines off its list since 2001.
A few days ago, a stray note on A Côté Restaurant's Web site piqued my interest. "Can't find the wines from our list in local wine shops?" the note read.

"Please inquire about purchases of individual bottles or larger orders of your favorite wines,

or sign up for our monthly mixed cases, all at retail prices." A few exploratory messages to local wine writers asking about other restaurants with the same policy yielded SOMA's Terroir, which markets itself as a wine bar and retail store, as well as Ottimista Enoteca in Cow Hollow. There may be a few more restaurants offering retail wine sales out there, but it's hardly common practice.

A Côté wine buyer John Berlin says the restaurant has offered its wines for sale since 2001 ― a small side business, really, and an extension of his wine buying approach. "People who love our wine list come here for the off-the-beaten-path stuff," he says, referring to all the Slovenian, Hungarian, Croatian, and Greek wines he brings in. "We tend to focus on more traditionally made wines, not ones made in the international style, and there are a lot of fun, odd, unique,

wines on our list."

For his most devoted customers, Berlin puts together mixed cases of wines, selected to fit a particular theme ― right now it's rosés and other spring-friendly wines; over the holidays he assembled sparkling wines. He charges around $200 for the (12 bottle) cases, and individual bottles range in price from $8 to $30.

More and more restaurants are specializing in the kind of offbeat wines that Berlin loves ― bottles that are hard or impossible to find elsewhere. So why don't more sommeliers supplement their on-premise wine sales with retail?

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Yesterday's Curry Up Now Debut in S.F.? Merely a Soft Opening

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 11:51 AM

Beginning April 19, expect Curry Up Now to make daily S.F. appearances. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Beginning April 19, expect Curry Up Now to make daily S.F. appearances.
Wednesday's FiDi christening of Curry Up Now's San Francisco Indian taco truck was intentionally on the DL, meant primarily for the truck's Facebook fans. Owner Akash Kapoor said he's still not totally ready for the city (he wants to whittle wait times down to the 10-minute mark, and get the online preorder-and-pickup system operational). When the S.F. truck becomes fully primed ― the week of April 19, say ― Kapoor says he hopes to sell five days a week, alternating between yesterday's Bush and Sansome location and at 10 Washington (at the Embarcadero), just north of Justin Herman Plaza. After that, the goal is to open every day in the city, including evening hours somewhere near Valencia and 19th in the Mission, and SOMA locations Kapoor is still scouting. "It's a little tricky," he said. "You have to be so many feet away from a restaurant that serves the same kind of food."

The truck will open for business again tomorrow in the city, at either the Bush or Washington locations (check Twitter for updates). Next week, expect Curry Up Now in S.F. Mon., Weds., and Fri., alternating between the two spots.

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Oakland Chocolatier Coco Delice Offering Sweet-N-Salty Facebook Freebie

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 10:53 AM

Fabulous and free. - COCO DELICE
  • Coco Delice
  • Fabulous and free.
Update: Oops! The e-mail Coco Delice sent out about the promotion was meant for existing customers only, and not the general press release we took it for. CD's Lisa Frank says the company is honoring all the new friending it received up until about 1 p.m. today, when it announced via Facebook that the promo was closed. Those folks will receive the free chocolates. As for the rest of us? Well, we'll just have to buy 'em. SFoodie regrets the mixup.

Coco Delice, an Oakland-based confectioner that we seriously heart, is offering one of the sweetest free deals we've seen in a long time. Become a fan on Facebook and then mail Chef Dennis (dennis@cocodelice.com) with the subject line "Free Chocolate" and a shipping address in the body of the message, and a six-piece box of Forais (salted caramel ganache chocolate, normally $11.95) will be sent to you.

The offer is good until April 16, by which time we hope Chef Dennis hasn't been completely eaten out of house and home.

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Check Out Saturday's Preview of Root Division's Bosch-Themed TASTE!

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 10:33 AM

Mmmm, Bosch-y.
  • Mmmm, Bosch-y.
This year, Root Division's TASTE! exhibition ― an event that historically hinges on food-centric themes ― will take its inspiration from Hieronymus Bosch's painting "The Garden of Earthly Delights." Called a depiction of "erotic derangement" by writer Peter S. Beagle, the triptych's central frame explodes with male and female nudes, fantasy creatures, outlandish plants, luscious fruits, and more symbols than an episode of Lost. When we were 16, it was the stoniest thing we'd ever seen. We would pore over it with a magnifying glass. Twenty-six artists are participating in TASTE! this year, contributing photography, collage, painting, drawing, sculpture, and video projects. There's a free preview and reception this Saturday, but the main event goes down in two weeks. With Beretta, Bourbon and Branch, Tacolicious, and other guests handling the food, ticket-buyers should eat well ― at least a lot better than those demons tearing up human flesh way over on the right panel. Details after the jump.

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S.F. Museum & Historical Society Talks Coffee, Seafood, Produce, and Place

Posted By on Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 8:30 AM

Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain.
Next week, San Francisco Museum and Historical Society turns its venerable monocle towards food, exploring how a combination of "coffee, seafood, produce, and place" created the foundation for San Francisco culinary culture. Esteemed edible storytellers will be Let's Be Frank's Larry Bain, Eat Real Fest's Susan Coss, and food photographer/historian Robert Dawson, a panel sure to produce a fascinating cross-section of ideas about how we ate our way here.

SFHMS will also host a Java Walk in conjunction with this program later in the week. More details soon, but prepare to be seriously caffeinated.

Event details:

A Foodie's Mecca: Mapping San Francisco's Culinary Evolution

Date: Tues., April 13, 7 p.m.

Location: Jewish Community Center of San Francisco, 3200 California (at Presidio)

Cost: $5 (free for SFMHS members)

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