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Wednesday, March 31, 2010

The Year Urban Farming Busted Out

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 5:31 PM

Raised beds at Alemany Farm. - CUESA/FLICKR
  • CUESA/Flickr
  • Raised beds at Alemany Farm.
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

Green city: At Bay Area Bites, Andrew Simmons muses on the city's dalliance with edible vegetation ― the urban farming movement that busted out in 2009 like fears about H1N1. What happened, Simmons suggests, is that the grassroots movement that sprouted in places like Alemany Farm and Little City Gardens got top-down validation from the likes of Mayor Newsom. Now, it's clear that planting broccoli in vacant city lots isn't exactly going to yield food self-sufficiency in the city and county of, but Simmons hints at the movement's power to engage something aspirational. Simmons:

The idea that relationships between gardeners might blossom along with the blighted spaces they plant is a compelling one ― that a vital, green space symbolizes a vibrant community ― but words like "soul" and "pride" carry a complexity their usage only occasionally signifies. Food does nurture us on a variety of levels, providing sustenance and pleasure, conjuring up memories of family, routines and valued moments in time: the tomato salad Mom started making every August, family trips to pick blueberries at a farm outside of town. What can a garden really do? It's true that greenery makes people happy ― whether it takes the form of a full-blown farm, or just a few plants on the windowsill of an apartment kitchen.

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Post-Punk Cheesemonger Gordon Edgar Reads at Omnivore Books

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 5:26 PM

CHELSEA GREEN
  • Chelsea Green
Gordon "Zola" Edgar's cheese descriptions in the fromage section of Rainbow Grocery reads like Amoeba Music's staff-selected album notes: well curated, relatable, and deliciously nerdy. But they're just but a brief tease into his recently released and highly praised memoir

Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge, which he'll chat about this weekend at Omnivore Books on Food.

We're not being judgmental when we say that the event will be cheesy; we hear there'll be a free tasting featuring cheese from Harley Farms Goat Dairy of Pescadero.

Event details:

Gordon Edgar's Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge

Date: Sat., April 3, 3-4 p.m.

Location: Omnivore Books, 3885a Cesar Chavez (at Church), 282-4712

Cost: Free

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Marlowe's Wonderfully Messy Burger

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 4:26 PM

Validation that burgers should be exercises in pleasure immersion. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • Validation that burgers should be exercises in pleasure immersion.
As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.

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Kombucha, Salumi, Laotian Cuisine? Prepare for Yet Another Underground Street-Food Event

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 4:05 PM

UNDERGROUNDSTREETFOODEVENT.BLOGSPOT.COM
  • undergroundstreetfoodevent.blogspot.com
An informal market calling itself the Underground Street Food Event is planned for a SOMA parking lot this Saturday. While the full vendor lineup has yet to be announced, look for an assembly of several new (some are even, gasp, Twitterless) crews peddling items including natural floral essences, kombucha, raw chocolate, salumi, Vietnamese, and Laotian food. Advance mailing list sign-up is required for attendance.

Event details:

Underground Street Food Event

Date: Sat., April 3, 5-11 p.m.

Location: Parking lot on Laskie Street between Eighth and Ninth Streets

Cost: Free

Reservations: RSVP required

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Magnolia Makes It Official: Matt Kerley's the Man

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 3:30 PM

In fact, Kerley has held the kitchen reins since February. - CATHYDANH/FLICKR
  • cathydanh/Flickr
  • In fact, Kerley has held the kitchen reins since February.
Magnolia officially announced today that it has a new chef: Matt Kerley, a 26-year-old born Down Under, then raised down in the underbelly of the American South. In fact, ex-Magnolia chef Ronnie New departed for The Republic in February ― Kerley's held the chef's clipboard since then, and his ascension at Magnolia hasn't exactly been a secret. Only difference is, today it's official. Kerley's CV includes Slow Club, One Market, Myth, and the equally 86ed burger joint Pickles. So he knows from upscaled casual.

Magnolia's menu swaps out new items daily, next to a core of favorites. Kerleyesque dinner items include fried smelt, Scotch duck eggs, lamb shank braised in porter, and a seared breast with chicken hash and liver mousse called "chicken d'Oliver," named after the chef's little boy. That's sweet.

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Sewage Sludge Protestors Sling Mud at Chez Panisse

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 1:11 PM

Unfair target? - SUPERHAPPYFOODIE/FLICKR
The good folks who earlier this month gallivanted into Mayor Gavin Newsom's office outfitted in HazMat suits and brandishing jars of compost will be doling out the charm again tomorrow ― at Chez Panisse. The Organic Consumers Association, via a not overheated at all press release announced they'll be crashing the Berkeley cafe in protest of proprietor Alice Waters' alleged fondness for growing food for needy kids in toxin-infested vats of steaming human excrement.

In actuality, the Organic Consumers Association's beef is a big more arcane. San Francisco's Public Utilities Commission has for years given away sewage-derived compost to all takers ― and was, rightfully, chided for using the term "organic" to describe the bags of reconstituted waste. A member of the Chez Panisse Foundation's board, Francesca Vietor, is a PUC vice president. Therefore, in the eyes of the compost activists, "Both Vietor and Waters support growing food on toxic sewage sludge."

While the Organic Consumers Association's rhetoric, actions, and Lyndon LaRouche-like logic might lead casual observers to label them as zealots ― there is a method behind this madness. In 2008, a Georgia judge sided with angry farmers claiming their cows were sickened by silage grown on sewage-derived compost; "The administrative record contains evidence that senior EPA officials took extraordinary steps to quash scientific dissent and any questioning of the EPA's biosolids program," wrote Judge Anthony Alaimo.

Lauren Fondahl, an EPA environmental engineer in San Francisco, noted that the compost given away by San Francisco is tested for nine key pollutants ― but not for many others that could lead to toxic results. But here's the rub ― no compost is tested for these additional toxins. Compost derived from sewage is not necessarily "dirtier" than former table scraps or garden clippings ― though the notion of sewage is inherently revolting, and induces a visceral reaction.  

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Last-Minute Easter: Waterbar's Seafood Prix Fixe

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 12:47 PM

SILLY JILLY/FLICKR
What:

Waterbar Easter Dinner

Where: 399 Embarcadero (at Folsom)

When: Sun., April 4

Time: 4 p.m.-8 p.m.

The deal: Three-course prix-fixe choices include asparagus gratin, seared scallop with peas, Madeira and fennel, olive-oil poached halibut with baby leeks and caviar, oak-roasted Alaskan cod, and petite beef filet. For dessert: brown butter pound cake and chocolate banana cream pie

Cost: $60; tax and gratuity extra

Reservations: Call 284-9922, or via OpenTable

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Tonight: Public House/Mijita Soft-Opens for Media and Industry

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 12:05 PM

The mighty keg wall at Public House. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • The mighty keg wall at Public House.
Unless you wear chef pants to work or have some connection to media old or new, you won't be able to witness tonight's launch party for Public House/Mijita at AT&T Park. The official public opening for Traci Des Jardins' double-in-the-bubble ballpark eateries is April 9, date of the Giants' home opener. This morning, workers were putting last-minute touches on the space formerly known as Acme Chophouse.

The focal point of Public House: Its mighty keg wall, which by our count holds nearly 80 barrels of suds. Indeed, craft brews are the attraction Des Jardins' version of the sports bar is hoping to get beer lovers to show up even on non-game nights (certified cicerone Eric Cripe served as beer consultant). Public House director of operations John Epperheimer previously told us there'd be 24 beers on tap, with 80 percent of total suds offerings being local.

By the way, if we know anything about media folk, we have a pretty good feeling a lot of that beer will get sucked down tonight.

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Last-Minute Easter: Benefit Brunch at Bacar ― Bonnets Optional

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 11:10 AM

ZAGATBUZZ/FLICKR
What: Easter Bonnet Brunch at Bacar to Benefit AIDS/LifeCycle

Where: 448 Brannan (at Fourth St.)

When: Easter Sunday, April 4

Time: Seatings from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

The deal: Four-course prix fixe from chef Douglas Bernstein includes Riverdog Farm honey ham, hot cross buns, soft-boiled Blue Farm eggs, and fruit sorbet. A la carte brunch items (waffle fried chicken, croque madame, sweet potato Benedict, etc.) round out the menu. Bonnets and white gloves optional.

Cost: $9-$36, depending on what you consume (proceeds benefit AIDS/LifeCycle); tax and gratuity extra

Add-ons: Bottomless adult cocktails are $12

Reservations: Call 904-4100, or go to OpenTable

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Friday's Food Talk at Cal Marks Gastronomica's 10-Year Anniversary

Posted By on Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 10:17 AM

Gastronomica has carved out food journalism's middle ground.
  • Gastronomica has carved out food journalism's middle ground.
Founding editor Darra Goldstein dreamed up Gastronomica when she was on sabbatical from Williams College, where she teaches Russian. Goldstein also writes and edits cookbooks, including the Julia Child Award-winning The Georgian Feast. Now celebrating its 10th year of existence, Gastronomica occupies a chin-stroking middle ground between hard-line academia and the soft-focus realm of popular mainstream food writing ― stories, photographs, and art on food and society, an intersection steeped in history, culture, and politics. The publications serve entirely different purposes, but it remains a mountainous, multiflavored layer cake to Saveur's sourdough loaf and Bon Appetit's Ritz cracker.

We're a big fan, even so much as we must admit that we probably started writing about food in the first place because we loved the publication so much. Finally, we thought when we first read it, a world in print wherein food production and consumption are considered as illuminating a perspective on the way we live and think as visual art, film, literature, and music.

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