Maybe Tartine's pressed sandwiches are brilliant, but maybe, on some days, the thought of facing one has the same dodgy appeal as scarfing an entire pizza. That's why we like the gougères ― technically breakfast pastries here, but just as appealing at lunch. The texture of the cheese-fortified choux pastry is pleasantly clammy, a craggy, eggy structure, essentially, around irregular air pockets. It succeeds at turning the nutty, borderline funky taste of Gruyère into a kind of volatile fragrance. Very nice, especially paired with a little side salad.
Tartine Bakery 600 Guerrero (at 18th St.), 487-2600
