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Friday, March 12, 2010

Quail That Take Flight: Your SFoodie Lunch Planner

Posted By on Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 7:17 AM

click to enlarge Pad ped nok (stir-fried quail) at Lers Ros Thai. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • Pad ped nok (stir-fried quail) at Lers Ros Thai.
Fri., March 12, 2010

If tiny birds have to die, it's better they should end up in the Tenderloin, where the Thai cooks at Lers Ros can turn them into pad ped nok (menu item no. 104). The quails' little joints yield plump flesh on mostly frangible bones, stained dark as new teak in a sauce fragrant with house-made chili paste, galangal, and green peppercorns on the stalk. All that's likely to be left when you're done: pepper berries and naked leg bones, kaffir lime leaves, and the junglelike taste of the sauce still in your mouth.

Lers Ros 730 Larkin (at Ellis), 931-6917

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