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Friday, March 5, 2010

Out of the Sourdough and Onto the Streets: Your SFoodie Lunch Planner

Posted By on Fri, Mar 5, 2010 at 7:30 AM

click to enlarge Sam's clam chowder: Back from a very mournful place. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • Sam's clam chowder: Back from a very mournful place.
Fri., March 5, 2010

Pasty bread bowls some prep cook has had his hands all up in, pulling out tufts of sourdough; cans -- two factors that've humiliated homely old chowder. Around these parts, Sam's ChowderMobile has helped walk ― er, drive ― the fish-house archetype back from a very sad place. Fridays, the seafood truck leaves its Peninsula orbit to make a weekly stop at Old Navy's offices on Terry Francois, a lonely stretch of bayfront that can feel appropriately gray and watery. While not exactly watery itself, Sam's New England classic is respectably thin, the taste gently smoky from bacon, with the mineral flavor of clams. And no detectable humiliation.

Sam's ChowderMobile Parked today (11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.) at 500 Terry Francois (at Mission Bay), (650) 712-0245

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