Look for the paper sign taped to the window of this three-month-old South Indian café near South Park, former home of Naan N' Chutney. Once at the counter, scanning the plastic-enclosed menu, go for the papery dosa. Mysore masala, say, with its spiced, chunky mash of potatoes dyed turmeric-yellow, which leaves you pondering the taste of black mustard and onion seeds on the walk back to work. Not even sips of fiery sambal sambar could obliterate it -- even if you wanted them to.
Ruchi 474 Third St. (at Bryant), 392-8353
