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Tuesday, March 2, 2010

SFoodie's 92: Pizzetta 211 and the Garden-Fresh Pie

Posted By on Tue, Mar 2, 2010 at 8:45 AM

You never know exactly what you'll find. - JEN MAISER/FLICKR
  • jen maiser/Flickr
  • You never know exactly what you'll find.
As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've

teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.

Number 55: The Garden-Fresh Pie from Pizzetta 211

Pizzetta 211's pies represent a specific point in the evolution of West Coast pizza, a distinctive style -- with a thin, bubbly crust and toppings dictated by the season -- that can be traced back to Wolfgang Puck, the Adam of the upscale California pie. (Wait ... since he's the creator of the first upscale California pie, would that make him the Creator? Or would Barbara Lazaroff be Eve? Perhaps we should drop that allusion.)

Ria Ramsey and Sher Rogat Tamar Peltz opened their two-table Richmond restaurant in 2004 July 2001, in a period when the Chez Panisse Cafe pizza still set the standard for what West Coast pizza could be, and a year before Delfina Pizzeria and Pizza Antica set off a wave of Italian-influenced, wood-fire-operating pizzerias that keeps gathering momentum. (Check out former Weekly contributor Robert Lauriston's tentative list of Bay Area places on Chowhound.)

Pizzetta 211 sticks to its original style, less crackly and charred than the newer pies and only occasionally committed to the idea of sauce. The crust, the cooks believe, should be great but not strong enough a presence to distract you from the pie's pure West Coast flavors. On this pie, that means focusing on the earthiness of the broccoli rabe, the tang and perfume of shaved Meyer lemons, and the way the dollops of ricotta gush in your mouth, smoothing over the bitter bite of the greens and citrus rind. Since the pies change every week, you may not have the chance to eat this one yourself. Which is how we like it here.

Pizzetta 211 211 23rd Ave. (at California), 379-9880

Hungry for more? Here are links to other dishes in our countdown:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery
No. 64: Turkish Salad from Old Jerusalem
No. 63: Ribs from Bruno's
No. 62: Prupisceddu in Umidu (Stewed Octopus) from La Ciccia
No. 61: Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky from Marin Sun Farms
No. 60: Pozole from Chilango
No. 59: Lobster Roll from Sam's ChowderMobile
No. 58: Dry-Fried Chicken Wings from San Tung
No. 57: John Campbell's Scones from Lovejoy's Tea Room

No. 56: Prahok from Angkor Borei

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