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Friday, February 26, 2010

Three Nights a Week, You Can Get Decent Sushi at This Mission Coffee Shop

Posted By on Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 9:30 AM

click to enlarge Not Sebo, but not Safeway, either. - A. SIMMONS
  • A. Simmons
  • Not Sebo, but not Safeway, either.
The lower rungs of the casual restaurant universe are rife with oddball establishments boasting menus teeming with seemingly incongruous dishes that hop cuisines like BART trains. We think of cheap Chinese joints doubling as doughnut shops, for starters. Coffee places generally play it pretty safe. Most only offer a perfunctory array of pastries -- muffins, bagels, scones, maybe a hip doughnut with bacon in it -- and perhaps a few sandwiches. Not the Little Spot Café, a tiny cup-crafter hugging the corner of 23rd and South Van Ness, right across from the post office. Since December, the Japanese couple who recently took over ownership have been quietly preparing a sushi menu three nights a week, Wednesday through Friday. You can't take a menu home with you yet. You can't pay with a credit card. You can't, to our knowledge, sneak in a big bottle of Asahi.

We can't think of anything raw fish, fingers of vinegary rice, seaweed, edamame, salmon onigiri, and miso soup might compliment worse than a sturdy mug of steaming black brew, which makes us love this operation way more than we'd love any decent sushi place within crawling distance of our crib. Eager to cloak our intent, when we rolled through last night, we didn't ask any questions; we just asked for fish -- whatever the couple thought we might like dragging back to the apartment. We were rewarded with a black plastic box containing a beautiful spicy tuna roll ($5.50), a very fresh, and actually truly halfway incendiary rendition with creamy avocado and incredibly crisp cucumber spears poking out from the cross section, as well as a nigiri assortment that included eel ($4), sea bass ($3.50), and yellowfin tuna ($4). The verdict? Not quite Sebo, but most definitely not Safeway either. The flavors of each were clean and subtle; it was infinitely clear that great care and attention had gone into all aspects of the preparations.

If you're in the neighborhood, and you're feeling like sushi, there's a good little coffee shop we know....

Little Spot Café 1199 South Van Ness (at 23rd St.), 550-1800

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Andrew Simmons

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