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T. Palmer
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Belly up to the sushi bar.
Far East meets Southwest at
Sushi Raw (682 Haight at Pierce, 4335 Mission at Avalon) with its Texas Roll ($15.95). Beef is popping up with increasing frequency on sushi menus around town, and Raw's take is a standout, a flat-pounded and grilled rib eye steak used as an outer wrapper for eel- and avocado-filled maki. Eel and steak are a harmonious combination: The former easily melts away, adding extra sweetness to the latter. Arteries be damned, we'll gladly take it over those sissy, California-style tofu-wrapped and brown rice-filled rolls that are spreading across the city like wildfire.
