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Thursday, February 25, 2010

Pie by the Foot: Your SFoodie Lunch Planner

Posted By on Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 7:35 AM

Eat half, save the other six inches to photograph.
  • Eat half, save the other six inches to photograph.
Thurs., Feb. 25, 2010

For some of us, visits to the main branch of the San Francisco Public Library always end with a look over the used cookbook shelf at the Friends of the SFPL stand, followed by a trip across the street to Gyro King for feta pie. The Turkish sandwich shop and kabob-erie draws a jostling line at lunchtime, its popularity funding a recent expansion and paint job. Has success gone to the owner's head? One suspects that he's actually smiling at customers now, though it's a two-millimeter upward curve that flickers off as soon as it appears.

While Gyro King's adana kabobs make for a good, inexpensive pre-symphony

dinner, and the gyro sandwiches and meze platters a decent lunch, the

rushed diner will want to pick one of the 12-inch pies from the top of the counter. There are curled ropes stuffed with spinach; flat, wide lahmacun

(Armenian "pizzas") covered with spiced, ground meat; and long, ovoid feta pies

whose puffy, oil-enriched crusts are folded over a thick layer of herbs and salty, tangy

cheese. Point at a pie and the cooks will fling it into the oven for a

minute to crisp up the bottom, then cut it in halves so you don't have

to eat it with arms fully outstretched.

Gyro King 25 Grove (at Larkin), 621-8313

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Jonathan Kauffman


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