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Wednesday, February 17, 2010

This Week in 'Eat': Mining Music Metaphors at Commis

Posted By on Wed, Feb 17, 2010 at 11:35 AM

click to enlarge STAR5112/FLICKR
This week in "Eat," SF Weekly restaurant critic Jonathan Kauffman enlists harmonics to describe the polyphony of flavors latent in James Syhabout's best dishes at Commis. Kauffman:
The tone that gave an appetizer of duck-liver mousse its resonance wasn't the mousse, piped into a six-inch-long stripe on a gray slate tile. Nor was it the toasted sourdough croustades ... layered on top. Nor the slender, warm duck tenders set on them, nor the canopy of finely shaved red and green chicories. It was the clear spots of honey that the chef had dripped around the tile. As my fork picked up a bite of the inverted canapé, I realized that, even more specifically, it was the fragrance of the honey Syhabout wanted to bring to the dish. The aroma of condensed nectar wound around the chicories, pulling out their leafy notes, and gave a sheen to the opulence of the liver.
Haven't read Kauffman's column yet? Slip on your head cans here. And keep it dialed on SFoodie for an extra-tasty Syhabout extra.

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