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Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Italian Prime Minestra: Your SFoodie Lunch Planner

Posted By on Wed, Feb 17, 2010 at 7:28 AM

click to enlarge Band-Aid for old wounds. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • Band-Aid for old wounds.
Weds., Feb. 17, 2010

As kids we trusted the murky, quaggy soup at Ital-Am dinner houses about as little as we trusted our mom's assurance that back-to-school mall shopping wouldn't yield bags of taunt-inducing jeans with sewn-in leg creases. That long-ago minestrone was sketchy, frankly, concealing the odd mushy chickpea or Romano bean, and with a taste like Parmesan that'd been left out to sweat on the kitchen counter -- for days. Honestly, Barbacco's borlotti bean minestra has begun to banish the memory of that primordial soup: its deep-tasting meat stock (flecked with little nubs of prosciutto scraped off the bone) carries the thing, with beans and tiny bits of tubular pasta that register toothy, not squashy.

Now if only we could do something about the memory of those taunts.

Barbacco 230 California (at Front), 955-1919

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