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Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Barbacco's Anti-Deli Sandwich: Your SFoodie Lunch Planner

Posted By on Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 7:00 AM

click to enlarge You won't miss the mustard and marble rye. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • You won't miss the mustard and marble rye.
Tues., Feb. 2, 2010

Barbacco's mirrored, low-ceilinged, all-but-windowless shaft of a room is so crammed with pin spots and gleaming stainless it feels like a Manhattan deli, but chef Sarah Burchard's sandwiches are anything but Carnegie. Take the seared sardines and squid layered on an Acme roll, impastoed with tangy-sweet roasted tomato condimento. The textures are alternately mashy and chewy, with just enough black on the inner surface of the toasted roll to affix it with a lovely bitter shadow. And unlike a New York deli, nobody here will call you "hon."

Barbacco 220 California (at Front), 955-1919

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