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Tuesday, December 29, 2009

2009 Alt Foodie Trend No. 3: Going Primal

Posted By on Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 3:44 PM

Now till Dec. 31, SFoodie is counting down the city's top alternative food and restaurant trends of 2009 ― the ones you won't be reading about in the Chron.

See also: No. 4: Major DIY-ness; No. 5: Profit Margins Crashed; No. 6: Beer Busted Out; No. 7: Twitter Ruled; No. 8: Sportin' Wood; No. 9: Street-Food Busts; No. 10: Porn Star Chefs

J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
S.F. Alt Foodie Trend No. 3: The Year in Hacking

Realness got messy in 2009 when butchering animal carcasses assumed the luster an earlier generation of rapt spectators applied to Julia mixing up a batch of crêpes. You could argue that the public butchery trend traces its roots to Michael Pollan. His 2006 watershed workThe Omnivore's Dilemma stoked a hunger for the primal, the stripping away of the processes of the industrial meat machine to expose something elemental, a hunger satisfied by the indie food magazine Meatpaper. And if such yearnings could be combined with cocktails, in a SOMA bar peppered with skinny-jean-wearing hotties, so much the better.

Public butchery demos practically became an industry for 4505 Meats' Ryan Farr; he and Taylor Boetticher of Fatted Calf became the Chris Jericho and Big Show of local meat men. Bi-Rite's Morgan Maki filled 18 Reasons with a whiff of the cerebral ― though even he couldn't match SFMOMA's Futurist dinner for sheer carcass-hacking spectacle dressed up as art.

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