Ryan Ostler and Kat Zacher took over the kitchen at Bruno's (2389 Mission at 20th St.) in late October, laying down a roster of Southern roadhouse dishes that combine the food's snarly roots with the finesse of talented chefs. Ostler's collard greens with bacon, smoked paprika, and vinegar mesh seamlessly with a holiday dinner of classic comfort dishes rocking surprising nuance. Along with the rice-and-bean set piece Hoppin' John, collards were something Ostler says he grew up eating in the hope they'd bring good fortune and prosperity in the new year. This particular recipe for greens? "I don't know if it will bring you good luck," Ostler said, "but it will give you good eats." Agreed.
Ryan Ostler's Collard Greens
Makes 8-10 servings
½ pound thick-cut bacon, chopped
6 shallots, julienned
8 cloves garlic, slivered
1/2 cup white wine
8 bunches collards, picked clean of stems
4 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons black pepper
2 teaspoons ground coriander seed
1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika
1 teaspoon cayenne
1/3 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey
In a cast-iron skillet, sauté the bacon to your preferred level of doneness. Reserve the bacon, and in the pan drippings, sauté the shallots and garlic until translucent. Deglaze the pan with the wine, making sure to pull up all the fond ― or brown bits ― from the bottom.
Next, pull out a large pot for braising the collards. Transfer the shallots, garlic, and wine to the pot and, on medium heat, start adding the picked greens. They will cook down a bunch, so this might take a few rounds, depending on how big the pot is. Once you have all the greens in the pot, add the chicken broth, salt, and spices. Cover with a lid and set on medium-low heat.
Come back and give a stir to the greens every five minutes or so ― they will need about 45 minutes to an hour to become tender. Remember to always maintain a little moisture in the bottom of the pot. Add a bit of water if things seem to be drying up; likewise, feel free to lower the heat. When the collards are tender, add the vinegar, honey, and reserved bacon to the pot, give the greens a stir, and you're done.
