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Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Doggy Bag: Livin' Large -- on Liver Crostini

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 5:44 PM

Doesn't it just seem to ooze money?
  • Doesn't it just seem to ooze money?
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

Beer goggles: You'd think 401(k)s hadn't been drained drier than a kegger at frat rush, the city was at full employment (the paid, legal kind), and we were all eating out to avoid the hassle of loading our dishwashers. It just so happens that S.F. is in the grips of opening frenzy -- anyway, two particularly prominent places are opening for reals tonight. The one that isn't named Frances is Baker & Banker, the collaboration by couple Jeff Banks and Lori Baker in the old Quince space (1701 Octavia at Bush). Jesse Friedman of Beer & Nosh hit the soft opening (he also apparently consulted for the beer offerings), and gushes about the New American food and modern brasserie vibe (Quince's slightly stuffy old-Euro trappings are at the bottom of a dumpster somewhere). Of course, Friedman's enthusiasm isn't totally objective:

I am in no way anything near an impartial reviewer for the new restaurant Baker & Banker. Far from it -- I've become friends with the chef/owners behind it, and have helped pick out the beer list (it's looking gooooood) as well as am doing some picture taking here and there. So, if you want an impartial review, I'd hold out for Bauer to stop by.
Sure thing. Meanwhile, Friedman offers up nice examples of his signature pixel porn. Check 'em out.

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Tomorrow's Monk's Kettle Prix Fixe Should Be Nice and Beery. Plus You Can Book a Table

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 3:53 PM

One of these babies has your name on it. - FONFEK/FLICKR
  • fONfEK/Flickr
  • One of these babies has your name on it.
Ever tried waiting nearly two hours on a Friday night for some delectable gastropub fare? Tomorrow's six-course beer dinner might be the only way you'll ever be able to get a reservation at Monk's Kettle (3141 16th St. at Albion). And believe us, snagging a rezzy at this famously no-reservatons place is definitely reason to celebrate.

Tomorrow night, the artisan beer-centric restaurant is hosting a six-course beer dinner focusing on Shelton Brothers, a Massachusetts beer importer. Shelton carries beers that are unsweetened, bottle conditioned (i.e., unfiltered), unpasteurized, and made by hand. Of course, the fermentation is slow, and traditional methods are used. Beer from the Netherlands, the U.S., Norway, Denmark, and Belgium will be paired with food from chef Kevin Kroger. The menu includes house-cured gravlax, lamb tartare with chive oil, lamb stew with fennel, and a traditional dessert of chocolate balls. Tickets are $100 and advance purchase is recommended. Call 865-9523.

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Ryan Farr: The Turducken Master Trains His Sights on Prime Rib

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 3:03 PM

Farr: A growing foodlebrity with national buzz. - JESSE FRIEDMAN/BEER & NOSH
  • Jesse Friedman/Beer & Nosh
  • Farr: A growing foodlebrity with national buzz.
One thing's certain: These days, it doesn't suck being Ryan Farr. When the 4505 Meats proprietor conducts a pair of Whole Hog butchery classes this Sunday at La Cocina (2948 Folsom at 25th St.), students will experience more than instruction in the dos and don'ts of hacking a hog. They'll be in the presence of a growing foodlebrity with national buzz. The December cover of Food & Wine features Farr's prime rib, following recent love in the New York Times. Farr's not shy in his attempts at monetizing the exposure -- he hopes to start taking holiday orders for that coverlicious prime rib (hams, too) sometime next week.

Last week, 4505 sold 25 turduckens -- 15 more than last Thanksgiving (they sold within two days). "Everybody wanted them this year," Farr told SFoodie. And there's no telling how many of the poultry mashups he could have sold, at $200 or $250 each, depending on size. "I capped it out.

The prime rib in question, from the December Food & Wine. - FOOD & WINE
  • Food & Wine
  • The prime rib in question, from the December Food & Wine.
That's all we could handle with our current production ability." Meaning one full timer and one part-time employee -- each turducken takes up to six hours to bone and stuff.

For more info on the $100 Whole Hog classes (start times are 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., Dec. 6, and last three hours), stop by the 4505 Meats Website. To reserve, leave a message at meats@4505meats.com, specifying the time you want.

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Mission Street Food Plans Pork-Heavy Dinner for Vegetarian Charity

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 3:00 PM

Becker Lane pork stars in dinner to benefit Food Not Bombs. - THESTEVENSCOMPANY.NET
  • thestevenscompany.net
  • Becker Lane pork stars in dinner to benefit Food Not Bombs.
Mission Street Food welcomes guest chef Thomas Martinez, last seen heading up the kitchen at Mission Beach Cafe, this Thursday, Dec. 3. Martinez's offerings for the menu are largely inspired by Becker Lane pork and farmers' market produce. He's donating proceeds to the San Francisco chapter of Food Not Bombs.

But not everyone is fine with the swine going to benefit a charity that serves only vegetarian food at its functions. Vegansaurus, still smarting from the demise of the vegan burger at MSF offshoot Mission Burger, says, "it seems like [on] a night where the proceeds are going to a veg organization, there could be some love for those who abstain from the pig carcass." Actually, the menu contains two vegetarian offerings (not including dessert) as well as its staple vegan dish of shiitake and oyster mushroom dumplings in miso soup.

Undaunted, the post goes on to criticize MSF for donating a smaller amount of money to charity each week than did the last SF Vegan Bakesale, which commendably raised over $2,600 in just three hours and hopes to top that number this Saturday. But that doesn't take into account that all the goods and labor are presumably donated at the Bakesale, while the people who operate and work for MSF each week do still have to draw a living wage.

Can't we all just get along? Thursday's service starts at 6 p.m. at Lung Shan (2234 Mission at 18th St.). Peruse that night's menu after the jump.

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Handmade Treats from Local Vendors at La Cocina's Holiday Gift Fair

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 1:44 PM

Artisan gift box of La Cocina products from online vendor Foodzie.com - FOODZIE.COM
  • Foodzie.com
  • Artisan gift box of La Cocina products from online vendor Foodzie.com
Who would even think of regifting truffles, shortbread, good coffee, and tea?

Food goodies from local businesses are the centerpiece of La Cocina's "insanely good" gift fair, which hits next Friday, Dec. 10, at Mission Cultural Center. Entrance is free, but tote that wallet and shopping bag to load up on gifts from San Francisco micro-entrepreneurs Kika's Treats, Neo Cocoa, Clairesquares, Slow Jams, House Kombucha, and the Love & Hummus Co. There will also be handmade Mexican ceramics, 18 Reasons classes, and coffee club memberships from Liga Masiva. Come to think of it, you can take care of your favorite food lover ― you ― at this shindig, too.

La Cocina's Second Annual Gift Fair

When: Fri., Dec. 10, 4-9p.m.

Where: Mission Cultural Center for Latino Arts, 2868 Mission (at 25th St.)

Cost: Free entrance; bring cash to buy gifts, bar drinks, raffle tickets, and gift-wrapping. RSVP if you like on La Cocina's Facebook page

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow Mary Ladd at @mladdfood.

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Confusion About Butter Mints Laid to Rest -- Sort Of

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 12:40 PM

A little from column A, a little from column B!
  • A little from column A, a little from column B!

Last week, we wrote about Walgreens Butter Mints, a seemingly ill-conceived reinvention of the traditional dinner mint. Because of their pastel yellow hue, we assumed the little tablets would taste like their namesake.

Two diligent readers swiftly wrote in to correct us, stating that the mints don't actually taste like butter, they're supposed to melt in your mouth like butter. Aside from the color, they aren't any different from the pink, green, and white mints passed out as wedding favors.

To restore our journalistic integrity we decided to buy a bag of Butter Mints and taste them.


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Early Bird Special: Sundance Kitchen

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 12:05 PM

It's a place that feels uninspired -- until the food arrives. - LACEILBLEU/FLICKR
  • laceilbleu/Flickr
  • It's a place that feels uninspired -- until the food arrives.
An early nibble from the Weekly's Wednesday food review.

The Hawaiian plate lunch doesn't have to be a sprawling aggregate of starches. At Sundance Kitchen (1865 Post at Webster), the house restaurant for Sundance Kabuki Cinema in J-Town, familiar strip-mall grinds (Hawaiian slang for eats) find welcome sophistication without going all Roy's. And while the place feels as dreary as some little-trafficked bar in a provincial airport, the food is meticulously crafted. The island classics loco moco, Spam musubi, and kalua pork are among the best you're likely to taste. No wonder: Once upon a time, restaurant manager Pat Da Silva ran the well-loved Honu's Island Grinds & Bar in nearby Buchanan Mall. Gorge on the full review (filed by yours truly) later today at SFWeekly.com, or dip your finger in SFoodie's extended excerpt (after the jump).

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Thomas Keller (and His Latest Food Porn) Should Turn Pages at Omnivore This Weekend

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 11:45 AM

ad_hoc_at_home_cookbook_cover.jpg
We only allow ourselves occasional and furtive peeks at the hefty new Thomas Keller bestseller Ad Hoc at Home because it is the very definition of food porn.

The book is being marketed as Keller's most accessible. This is corroborated by reading the family-style recipes inspired by his Yountville comfort food eatery -- a number of them seem do-able and not that much of a production (and that's coming from someone who isn't particularly fond of recipes in general).

Pick up a copy this Sunday, Dec. 6 at Omnivore Books (3885A Cesar Chavez at Church) and Keller himself will sign it for you, beginning at 3:30 p.m.

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Katz Olio Nuovo, The Bay Area's Best Local Olive Oil, Releases Today

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 11:08 AM

Green gold. - A. SIMMONS
  • A. Simmons
  • Green gold.
On Sunday, the uncle brought over a bottle of olio nuovo courtesy of Katz, the Napa Valley crafter responsible for some of the Bay Area's most sought-after olive oils. Katz calls it December's New Oil, and it's available for purchase today, Dec. 1. We're amazed -- and grateful.

The Taggiasca, Casalivo, Allegra, and Leccino olives for this very small-batch oil are grown, not in Napa, but on the company's 16-acre ranch in Suisun Valley -- not to mention milled by a quality-conscious Jesuit monk. We tapped the slim bottle last night, on the eve of its official release, and dabbed away at a lime-green pool with salt-speckled bread, and later, radish slices. The helpful card that came with the bottle suggested a white bean purée (we already have cannellini soaking). The organic, cold-pressed oil -- spicy, herbaceous, and wonderfully pungent -- can be yours for $24, or $260, if you brush enough crostini to warrant stowing away a whole case. As it turns out, the uncle rolls a little deeper than we thought.

You can score your own directly from Katz, or -- in a day or two -- from Bi-Rite in the Mission (3639 18th St. at Guerrero). In the East Bay, both Pasta Shop locations (1786 Fourth St. at Hearst, Berkeley; Rockridge Market Hall, 5655 College at Shafter, Oakland) already have a supply.

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Acme Chophouse To Be Split to Make Way for Two New Casual Restaurants

Posted By on Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 10:17 AM

More than the Acme sign is getting split.
  • More than the Acme sign is getting split.
Even before the remains of Acme Chophouse are, well, ashes, much less gone cold, comes word of what'll take its place. Turns out the sprawling Acme space (24 Willie Mays Plaza at AT&T Park) will be chopped into two unequal parts to house separate eateries. In the space along Third Street, owner Traci Des Jardins will install a Mijita Cocina Mexicana, sister to the one in the Ferry Building. The rest of the space will relaunch as Public House, a sort of sports bar with grass-fed burgers, pulled-pork sliders, crab cakes, and a huge selection of beers and cask ales. Acme chef Thom Fox and GM John Epperheimer will stay on for Public House. Acme operating partner Bon Appetit will continue on with Public House, too. Expect prices to be a bit fan-friendlier that Acme's - a Des Jardins spokesperson told us the tab at Public House will be "more in alignment" with sports bar prices. No word on when the build-out is to begin, but -- naturally -- there'll be a mega push to wrap up construction for the Giants first pitch at AT&T Park on April 9.

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