Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Arlequin's Ferry Plaza Debut Flaunts Luis Villavelazquez's Lush Imagination

Posted By on Thu, Oct 22, 2009 at 11:55 AM

click to enlarge Luis Villavelazquez: The Lewis Carrol of cupcakes? - M. BRODY
  • M. Brody
  • Luis Villavelazquez: The Lewis Carrol of cupcakes?
For the inaugural outing this morning of Arlequin's pastry stand on the south side of the Thursday Ferry Plaza farmers' market, chef Luis Villavelazquez put together an intriguing lineup of cupcakes, beignets, scones, and cookies with uncommon combinations of ingredients and flavor profiles. Cocoa nib cupcakes stuffed with huckleberry jam and frosted with violet-essence icing? Fromage blanc scones studded with figs and glazed with honey, or savory wheatberry scones slicked with olive oil? We'd put the imagination of the Arlequin (and Absinthe) pastry chef right up there alongside Lewis Carroll's.We wanted to follow him down the rabbit hole and try everything, but reality intervened.

click to enlarge Scones seemed perfect for the season. - M. BRODY
  • M. Brody
  • Scones seemed perfect for the season.
Our favorites were perfect for the season: the dusky scone excitingly perfumed with the pungent Indian spice blend garam masala, enfolding chewy bits of persimmon, and glazed with coffee ($2.75); and the autumnal squash cupcake, happily not too sweet, stuffed with pillowy cream cheese and topped with brown butter frosting ($2.50).

We also enjoyed the very chocolaty, dense, and lumpy chocolate cherry cookie ($1.75) and the classic beignet with raspberry jam (the same ones Arlequin makes for I Preferiti de Boriana in the Ferry Building -- $2.50). The modish beignet stuffed with maple/bacon custard ($2.50) was shocking in its intensity and fattiness: perhaps better for later in the day than as an eye-opener. But we'll happily open our eyes any time of the day with the split scone sandwiched with house-made pecan butter and glazed with Rittenhouse 100-proof rye whiskey ($2.75).

Arlequin Stand at the Thursday Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market One Ferry Building at the Embarcadero; Thu, 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m., or until sold out.

Beignets (left) and cupcakes: lime/coconut, squash, cocoa nib with huckleberry, and chocolate chip with maple frosting. - M. BRODY
  • M. Brody
  • Beignets (left) and cupcakes: lime/coconut, squash, cocoa nib with huckleberry, and chocolate chip with maple frosting.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

About The Author

Meredith Brody


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"