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Friday, September 25, 2009

Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 5:00 PM

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Our favorite morsel from the food blogs.

Pizza. And beer: Wea culpa -- meaning we're as guilty as the next blogger in hyping restaurants not yet open. Restaurants that, well, shouldn't oughtta be hyped. When a place has a PR firm opening the throttle on the buzz machine, we can understand it. But when it doesn't, it makes us wonder just exactly what kind of clammy-fingered, Lord of the Flies-type group kill is going on here.

The latest specimen: Pi Bar. It's a pizza and beer place at 1432 Valencia Street in the Mission, or will be , after an opening slated for October 1. Pizza, beer. The owner is the guy behind Chenery Park -- that's pretty much all you need to know. A big deal? Well, it's pizza and beer, not like fucking Ferran Adriá packing up and moving to the Mission, right? Yet Eater SF listed the place as a Neighborhood Game-Changer, because, apparently, well, there'll be pizza -- East Coast pizza. And beer. Two points not overlooked by UrbanDaddy, which crafted a headline that read: "Your New Temple of Beer and Pizza." Really?

On Wednesday, Grub Street admitted it's been waiting patiently since March for, well, pizza. And beer. Burrito Justice excerpted UrbanDaddy's report, then expressed its own anticipatory schadenfreude: "I look forward to watching those lacking east coast pizza experience learn to eat a pizza with one hand." What about Mission Mission? Maybe all this Pi frenzy is traceable to blogger Kevin Montgomery, whose almost tweaked-out fascination about the place rated its own site tag: Bloggers Completely Uncalled For Obsession With Pi Bar.

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Is the Mayor's Soda Tax a De Facto Cultural Attack?

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 3:40 PM

THARRIN/FLICKR
  • tharrin/Flickr
When brand-new dad Gavin Newsom, finally galvanized into action by a damning UCLA study on obesity and soft drink consumption, proposed his indirect soda tax last week -- not a tax on individual cans of corn syrupy goodness but a fee levied on retailers as varied as Safeway and corner liquor stores -- he likely wasn't counted on being called a communist. That's hyperbolic (sorry), but as reported in the Chronicle on Sunday, Muhtar Kent, Coca-Cola's CEO, did offer words of warning that very faintly cloaked broader allegations: "I've never seen it work where a government tells people what to eat and what to drink. . . If it worked, the Soviet Union would still be around." Chronicle writer Andrew S. Ross went on to point out that Arkansas, Tennessee, and Virginia have what he'd consider similar taxes.

In a situation such as this, when a public official -- a mayor no less -- wants to regulate what people put in their bodies -- directly, with the support of voters, or indirectly, by such a roundabout method only Supervisors must approve -- lawsuits are inevitable. Likewise, naysayers wonder why vendors should be taxed for selling soda, but not ice cream, or, say, sports drinks -- a slovenly vice New York City recently targeted in an ad campaign. The author of one comment on Ross's piece proposed a $25 tax on each bag of dog food sold in San Francisco, with the idea that the revenue could "fund a city-operated dog-shit clean up service" to mitigate the near-ubiquitous presence of canine feces on sidewalks and in parks.

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Move Over, Emeril and Rachael: The Most Annoying New-School TV Food-lebrities are Here

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 3:17 PM

Bam! Yum-O! We've been annoyed by the exaggerated catchphrases of Emeril LaGasse and Rachael Ray for many years, but they've got some serious competition in the annoyance department from these up-and-coming boob tube food-lebrities:

VIA THE INSIDER
1. Bethenny Frankel

Frankel, who first appeared on reality television as the winner of Martha Stewart's Apprentice, has shamelessly promoted her Bethenny Bakes treats and Skinny Girl cocktails on the last two seasons of Real Housewives of New York City, where she took on the role of "runaway bride" with repeat offenses. With a new Bravo reality series called Skinny & The City set to go, there's no end in sight.

VIA HULU.COM
  • Via Hulu.com
2. Kelly Choi

Also known as that chick who hosted Top Chef Masters who wasn't Padma Lakshmi and pretty much only called food by the oh-so-descriptive word "yummy." Even with the appearance of many nationally-known chefs, Choi made the first season of the spinoff show a total snoozer.

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SF Food & Wine Fest: A New Sunday Tasting Series at The Cannery

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 3:05 PM

Tastings go down in Del Monte Square. - MARYDENISE6/FLICKR
  • marydenise6/Flickr
  • Tastings go down in Del Monte Square.
Down near Fisherman's Wharf, Del Monte Square at the Cannery (485 Jefferson at Hyde) is launching a new weekly food and wine pairing event organized around different themes. First up for the SF Food & Wine Fest? This Sunday from 1:30 to 4:30 p.m., chocolate and vino fans (and who out there isn't?) can look forward to samples from a dozen boutique wineries, all included in the event's $15 advance ticket (tickets at the door cost $20). Wines are from the neighboring Winery Collective, which carries bottles from small makers across California, from Napa Valley to Santa Barbara. Hand-crafted chocolates from TCHO, Jade Chocolate, and Beligique Truffle Gateau round out the program. The outdoor location offers enough room and distractions for the wee ones, and kids' chocolate tastings of chocolates are a mere $5. Future SF Food & Wine Fest themes include BBQ and seafood.

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Luce's Dominique Crenn Brings High Hopes (and Cheekbones) to 'The Next Iron Chef'

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 2:36 PM

Dominique Crenn: One of 10 chefs competing for the top spot. - DOMINIQUECRENN.COM
  • dominiquecrenn.com
  • Dominique Crenn: One of 10 chefs competing for the top spot.
If you like rooting for locals, get ready to cheer on Dominique Crenn, chef de cuisine of Luce in the Intercontinental Hotel. The glamorous, high-cheekboned San Franciscan is on the 10-competitor roster of The Next Iron Chef, which premieres Sunday, October 4, on Food Network. And there's a Bay Area bonus: joining crotchety Jeffrey Steingarten and feisty Donatella Arpaia on the judge's panel is Oakland resident Anya Fernald, director of last year's Slow Food Nation and currently director of Live Culture Co., which put on the recent Eat Real Fest in Jack London Square. (When the series was shot, Nate Appleman was still wearing an A16 apron, but the show's publicity now identifies him as a New Yorker, chef-partner of the upcoming Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria there.)

Crenn's biggest fan may be Esquire magazine's influential John Mariani, who named her a Chef to Watch in his Best Restaurants of 2007 and Chef of the Year in his Best Restaurants of 2008, as well as naming Luce the best new restaurant in San Francisco in Bloomberg News.

When she was 18 months old, Crenn was adopted by a French couple who raised her in Versailles, outside Paris. "I was accustomed to good food," she told SFoodie. "My mother was a great cook who took me to the farmers' markets. My father's best friend was a well known French food critic, and I hung out with them a lot, going to many restaurants. From the age of 8 I knew that I wanted to be a chef. I wanted to go to cooking school, but I ended up getting a bachelor in economics. But during the summers I cooked in little restaurants, and learned."

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Sashimi, Sangiovese, and It's-Its: SF Weekly's Dish Party Was a Blowout

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 1:57 PM

Things only got blurrier as the evening progressed. - RICHARD HENDERSON
  • Richard Henderson
  • Things only got blurrier as the evening progressed.
Last night, about 1,200 partiers gathered on the Metreon's fourth-floor City View terrace to sample food and drink from several San Francisco restaurants and local wineries. The second annual charity event, Dish, was presented by SF Weekly and Park Merced. Partial proceeds benefitted One World Children's Fund, which supports community-based organizations around the world serving vulnerable children and their caregivers.

Shrimp ceviche from Sam's Chowder House. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Shrimp ceviche from Sam's Chowder House.
Filling the expansive hall were 30 restaurants sampling items from their menus, including Fish & Farm, Circolo, Out the Door, Papalote, XYZ, Tres Agaves, Coda, Pacific Catch, and many more. We did our best to navigate the crowd and sample as many good eats as we could.

One of our favorites was the yellow fin tuna sashimi served atop a tiny slice of mini cucumber from Circolo. It was incredibly tiny but still managed to pack a lot of cool, crisp, and refreshing flavors. We also enjoyed the cheese pupusas from Balompie Café, which had a nice fluffy dough and hot gooey cheese, perfect. We also tried chicken tamales from Roosevelt Tamale Parlor, which were good, not great, though the house-made guacamole was. Not too chunky, and it had a nice subtle avocado flavor, just enough to not overpower anything it was served with.

Burritos from Papalote. - GENE MIGUEL
  • Gene Miguel
  • Burritos from Papalote.
Though most restaurants served bite-size portions, Papalote served full-sized burritos cut in half. The veggie burritos were packed with a lot of flavor from the seasoned rice and beans, and definitely filled us up compared to some of the other offerings on hand. For dessert we had incredibly tasty tiramisu from Gold Mirror. It was light and airy, with balanced hints of liquor, espresso beans, and cocoa.

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S.F.'s Best Places to Get Stinko for Oktoberfest

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 1:48 PM

Clinking steins at Schroeder's: Pace yourself, okay? - SCHMICKIE/FLICKR
  • schmickie/Flickr
  • Clinking steins at Schroeder's: Pace yourself, okay?
Beer drinkers: You already know that Oktoberfest is officially here. The German tradition, which dates back as far as the 16th century, kicks off in late September for one reason: to drink the old stocks of beer and make room for new. History lesson aside, the fact remains that the Bay Area has ample places to celebrate Oktoberfest. Here are SFoodie's highlighted destinations in the coming weeks for beer and grub:

Suppenküche (525 Laguna at Hayes) has lunch (in honor of Oktoberfest) and beer specials. More info here.

• Special German beer can be found at Toronado (547 Haight near Fillmore).

• In the Mission, Monk's Kettle (3141 16th St. at Albion) will have both beer and German food.

Schroeder's German Restaurant's (240 Front at Sacramento) annual Oktoberfest kickoff is today. Take in the Joe Smiell's Fest band, folk dancers, and German elves -- otherwise known as hostesses. It is too easy to get completely sloshed here, and pacing is key. The festivities continue every Friday through October.

• If you're craving more crowds in a decidedly less intimate setting, Oktoberfest By the Bay at Pier 48 near AT&T Park is billing itself as "bigger and better" this year. Events run from October 2 to 4. Tickets are $30 to $35; beer, German food, music, and general festivities are scheduled. Happy guzzling.

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Catch a Plethora of Food Carts at 'Call to Flavor'

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 12:50 PM

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If you haven't had a chance to sample S.F.'s current wave of street food offerings, or are as simply addicted as we are, Chef Roger Feely (who we interviewed earlier this week) of Soul Cocina has organized "Call to Flavor," a gathering where you'll be able to catch a number of these vendors in one spot, including the Gumbo Man, Toasty Melts, Adobo Hobo, Gobba Gobba Hey, Wholesome Bakery, Lumpia Cart, PizzaHacker, Magic Curry Cart, Brazilian Bites, Urban Nectar, Bacon Potato Chips, and Smitten Ice Cream.

The event will benefit the St. Anthony Foundation, so be sure to indulge. Look at Soul Cocina's Twitter page on Sunday morning (September 27) for the exact location, which will be near the Mission. The snackdown takes place from noon until 3 p.m.

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Further Exploration at Japanese Sweet Shop Minamoto Kitchoan

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 11:10 AM

Sweets are displayed in bamboo cases. - G. MIGUEL
  • G. Miguel
  • Sweets are displayed in bamboo cases.
As Tamara Palmer pointed out Wednesday at SFoodie, newly opened Minamoto Kitchoan (648 Market at New Montgomery) specializes in the traditional Japanese sweets known as wagashi, which take on multiple shapes and sizes: animals, fruit, plants, even generic balls of dough. Tamara loved the vanilla cream cookies and yuzu- and white peach-flavored jellies. We swung by to explore further -- easy to do, since there's a wide assortment of sweets to choose from, most of which consist of rice flour, beans, fruit, and sugar.

Kusa Mochi: Soft and chewy, with a bean filling that's not too sweet. - G. MIGUEL
  • G. Miguel
  • Kusa Mochi: Soft and chewy, with a bean filling that's not too sweet.
We tried the Kusa Mochi ($2.50), which is red bean paste wrapped in rice cake with mugwort. It was very soft and chewy, with a consistency like raw dough. The red bean paste filling wasn't overly sweet, and even had real pieces of red bean inside -- nice. Other items include Mame Daifuku ($2.80), red bean paste wrapped in rice cake with black beans, Matcha Manjyu ($2.20), white bean paste with green tea powder wrapped in steamed wheat flour, and Tsuya ($3.00) red bean paste sandwiched between two sweet mini pancakes.

It's all very high-end and minimalist -- customers carry little woven baskets to fill with treats. The uniformed employees are traditional and polite, offering to help the confused with any questions they might have. Luckily, each of the treats comes with an English translation describing the ingredients. It's all a bit on the pricey side (some treats cost upwards of $11 each). But the wagashi come straight from Japan, so the relatively steep prices are surely attributed to the overseas shipping costs.

Minamoto Kitchoan is a nice, albeit pricey, dessert shop, but you get great service and authentic treats straight from Japan. At least it's not another cupcake shop.

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Another 24 Hours: Craigslist Farm and Garden Classifieds

Posted By on Fri, Sep 25, 2009 at 10:11 AM

SFoodie's weekly look at some urban essentials offered up on Craiglist.

Irresistible -- especially in a red-wine braise. - CRAIGSLIST
  • Craigslist
  • Irresistible -- especially in a red-wine braise.
• Hundreds of Southern African goats are for sale in Corning at the price of $125 apiece. According to the vendors, they're "good for grazing, pets, or whatever else." We're thinking "whatever else" means a nice braise.

• "Do you have a problem with pigs tearing up your yard?" asks this ad, sounding like a late-night infomercial host frothing at the mouth over the life-saving possibilities posed by some obscure kitchen gadget. If pigs are, in fact, your problem, or if you just want to buy a big cage -- you know, for whatever -- this might be your ticket to happiness. The cage can hold multiple hogs at a time. The asking price is $500. Just call Desiree in Oakdale.

• Our friend once wrote a nice song about Asian pears. We've always had mixed feelings about them. So frequently they're tasteless -- though it truly, as with most such things, likely depends on the variety and the grower. We don't really know; we're no professors of pear-ness. We've probably just had some particularly weak ones. Ditto for Golden Delicious. The so-called "delicious" apples populating our childhood grocery store's wane and waxed produce aisle -- both golden and red -- were usually mushier than a frozen margarita. Yet just last week, we accidentally ate a pale yellow specimen we actually really enjoyed. We thought we were tripping. We dug in the trash and double-checked the sticker repeatedly. Anyway, both Asian pears and Golden Delicious apples are $1/pound in Sebastopol.

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