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Friday, September 18, 2009

Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 5:36 PM

doggybag.jpg
Our favorite morsel from the food blogs.

Rock the vote: Yesterday we questioned Sara Deseran's ear-tweaking of Chron critic Michael Bauer for not, well, controlling his man better. To recap: Mrs. Bauer -- aka Michael Murphy -- posted what 7x7's Deseran blasted as an indiscreet tweet about a restaurant (presumably Commis). Murphy hated; Deseran hated on Bauer for (presumably again) hating on Commis (presumably), and also, we guess, for not keeping some pimpish grip on his squeeze's Twitter finger. Get it?

Today, Eater took a step back deployed some critical analysis: "In many ways, this is a new technology (and food media) issue bigger than this particular debate. So, it's probably best to do the only thing logical: put the question to the masses!"

So what do the masses think? As of 5:21 p.m. and 213 votes, it was 65.3 percent in favor of exercising more caution on Twitter, and 34.7 percent for letting people do whatever the hell they like. Roughly, we guess, the same percentage that has issues with Mr. Bauer in general.

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The Owners of Foreign Cinema Have Big Plans for the Warfield Building on Market

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 4:21 PM

The eatery will take up three floors of the historic building.
  • The eatery will take up three floors of the historic building.
SF. Business Times reports today that the owners of Mission District eatery Foreign Cinema plan to open a huge, 255-seat restaurant in the vacant Warfield Building at 988 Market (at Taylor), near the Warfield Theater. The restaurant will reportedly sprawl over three stories -- including a speakeasy-style bar in the basement that'll connect to the theater -- and outdoor seating on what reporter J.K. Dineen describes as "a steel-plated canopy 18 feet above the street."

The project is said to be financed by developer David Addington, owner of the Warfield, and partner with Foreign Cinema owners Gayle Pirie and John Clark in Show Dogs. Biz Times suggests the restaurant project might give a boost to a measure on the November ballot in San Francisco -- Prop D -- which seeks to revitalize the battered Mid-Market area.

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Creamery Owner Weeks Away from Launching Iron Cactus Taqueria

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 3:42 PM

The facade includes wooden doors reclaimed from an Argentinian hacienda. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • The facade includes wooden doors reclaimed from an Argentinian hacienda.
SOMA café The Creamery (685 Fourth St. at Townsend) is nearing a launch date for its adjacent taqueria, The Iron Cactus (683 Fourth St.), which has been rumored since March. A restaurant spokesman cited Wednesday, October 14, as the target opening date. Today, workers moved through the soaring, concrete-walled space, a former dairy. The building's original wooden barrel ceiling (with huge skylight) will remain exposed; the original walk-in door will open up to create access to The Creamery (the café space originally served as a dairy refrigeration vault). There'll be a dining patio behind The Iron Cactus, bordered with Brazilian ipe wood fencing, while the building's façade incorporates wooden doors (with heavy iron hardware) reclaimed, reportedly, from a hacienda in Argentina.

The kitchen team includes veterans of Taqueria Pancho Villa, and the menu offers standard taqueria fare -- tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and salads, plus daily specials. Expect a wine and beer license (The Creamery itself should begin selling wine and beer as early as next week). More photos after the jump.

Continue reading »

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Think You Could Survive on $4 a Day? Here's Your Chance to Find Out

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 2:26 PM

CLEMENTINE GALLOT/FLICKR
  • clementine gallot/Flickr
It's a dare meant to get you thinking: Could you eat on just $4 a day? Next week, the Hunger Challenge will be asking folks to do just that. Four bucks is the average amount a food stamp recipient in Cali gets for daily sustenance -- tough to imagine surviving (not to mention rustling up something even vaguely tasty) on such meager funds.

The Hunger Challenge is a project of local food banks, bloggers (including Cooking with Amy's Amy Sherman, who gave us the heads up), CBS 5 ConsumerWatch reporter Sue Kwon, and recipe developers. Kwon will float cost-effective recipes during the challenge (let's hope they don't include the words "Top Ramen"). Organizers hope to raise awareness and donations -- last year, Tyson Foods donated 200,000 pounds of protein to Bay Area food banks. One fact that leaves us a little breathless: A 20 spot can translate into $180 worth of groceries via the San Francisco Food Bank.

If you feel up for trying the Hunger Challenge for a day, or even the whole week of September 20-26, e-mail HungerChallenge@SFFB.org so organizers can add your experiences to the event blog.

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Sunday's Wild Kitchen Foraged-Foods Prix-Fixe Will be Totally Legit

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 1:18 PM

Albacore crudo with fried sea beans, from a previous Wild Kitchen dinner. - THE WILD KITCHEN
  • The Wild Kitchen
  • Albacore crudo with fried sea beans, from a previous Wild Kitchen dinner.
For those interested in wild cuisine, Iso Rabins (of forageSF fame) is taking the Wild Kitchen experience to Mojo Bike Café (639 Divisadero at Hayes) on Sunday. It'll be the first "above-ground" Wild Kitchen event -- past meals were served at top-secret Bay Area locations, thanks to pesky things like permit requirements. The seven-course meal drops Sunday, September 20, at 8 p.m., and costs $50. Advance tickets are required, available at Brown Paper Tickets. Beer will be available for purchase, and a $10 wine corkage fee goes to Mojo, as a thank you for use of the space.

Ingredients for Wild Kitchen meals are foraged the day of the event. Here's the proposed menu in all its wild splendor (naturally, when you're talking day-of sourcing, elements are subject to change):

• Fire-roasted chestnuts (an amuse-bouche)

• Fried smelt with foraged lemon and vanilla fried potatoes with garlic-nasturtium aïoli

• Intermezzo of eucalyptus-huckberry sorbet

• A charcuterie plate of wild boar prosciutto, sweet pickled sea beans, chicken liver pâté, porchetta di testa, and guanciale

• Wild nettle tea

• Poached local albacore tuna with sweet corn, heirloom tomatoes, and tempura fried sea beans

• Corn ice cream with foraged blackberries

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Tomorrow's 'Zerowasted Pub Crawl' Promotes Eco Boozing

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 12:47 PM

Despite all the kilowatts, Doc's Clock skews green. - THOMAS HAWK/FLICKR
  • Thomas Hawk/Flickr
  • Despite all the kilowatts, Doc's Clock skews green.
Usually, we hit the bar to avoid thinking about heady issues like sustainability and the greening of our planet. Well, a -- you guessed it -- green consulting firm may get us to modify that just a tad, because, hey, even that after-work mojito can do more than just impair your judgment. It can mess up the planet.

Green & Tonic is a startup that works with bar owners to reduce waste and energy use, helping with everything from biodegradable straws to composting -- hey! The G&T firm (gotta say, it's a catchy name) is also into local and sustainable adult bevies. Tomorrow, the Green & Tonic folks are putting on what they're calling a Zerowasted Pub Crawl to the following "green" bars: Doc's Clock, Casanova Lounge, and Elixir. Expect discounted drinks, a green auction, and a sustainable scavenger hunt. It starts at Doc's Clock (2575 Mission at 22nd St.) at 4 p.m., Saturday, September 19, heads to Casanova (527 Valencia at 16th St.) at 5:30, then on to Elixir (3200 16th St. at Guerrero) at 7 p.m. Feel better already? Wait'll you get a few sustainable drinks in you.

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The Shakes: Come on, S.F., Isn't It Time to Demand Booze-Spiked Milkshakes?

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 12:30 PM

The Guinness-spiked Shakin' Jesse (with a plate of Your Own Private Eyedaho) at Rudy's Can't Fail. - KTDUB./FLICKR
  • ktdub./Flickr
  • The Guinness-spiked Shakin' Jesse (with a plate of Your Own Private Eyedaho) at Rudy's Can't Fail.
Our freshman year of college, we saw a friend make an ill-advised choice involving a funnel and a 32-ounce bottle of premixed Mudslide. Consumed in large quantities with the intent of intoxication, the combination of alcohol and dairy is dangerous, even when a seasoned drinker is tipping back the jug. If he or she manages to get drunk before stomach and intestines violently rebel, it will not be an ebullient, sparkling, let's-hit-the-streets-and-love-the-world kind of drunk; no, it'll be a lazy, bloated, sinking-into-the-couch state of inebriation from which friends and lovers will glean no slight smirking amusement.

Alcohol and dairy as dessert -- well, that's a different matter altogether, something celebratory, quirky, and whimsical. Brooklyn Bowl in the Williamsburg neighborhood of Brooklyn, N.Y., is a Blue Ribbon-curated BW3s plus pins for the neighborhood's (literally) well-heeled bowlers and semi-ironic sports fans. Its bourbon shakes -- according to Bloomberg, "not too thick...a hint of Nutella with a sweet whiskey sting" -- are 13 bones, pricier than cocktails at Beretta. If you like your sweets spiked, we have similar concoctions closer to home: Sauce's Guinness milkshake (with white chocolate and cream), Rudy's Can't Fail Café's Shakin' Jesse (chocolate ice cream, Guinness, and espresso), and, of course, all sorts of revolving boozy flavors at Humphry Slocombe. So long as you have just one.

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Hot Meal: Hi-Tea (It's Not What You Think)

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 11:24 AM

The fully loaded No. 31. - M. BRODY
  • M. Brody
  • The fully loaded No. 31.
When we saw that the Quizno's down on Bush near Battery was gone, replaced by a place called Hi-Tea, we assumed the newcomer was one of those Asian bubble tea spots, like Tapioca Express or Quickly, with an array of little snacks appropriate to the name. When we visited the immaculate, even chic storefront yesterday, we were delighted to find both a charming setting, and that a more appropriate name for the place might be Hi-Phở. Perplexingly, Hi-Tea is rather light on
the beverages (milk tea and a few flavored fruit teas with tapioca, $2.75) and snacks (a limited line of Fiorello gelato, $3.50-$4.50 the scoop). But it offers 14 varieties of phở (identified only as "beef noodle soup, Vietnamese style"), for $6-$6.25 the generous bowlful. Beef is the only option available, in combinations ranging from a single item (beef ball or steak, say) to several. We chose the fully loaded No. 31: rare steak, well done brisket, flank, tendon, and beef balls. You order at the counter and a tray is brought to your wooden table, from which, through potted palms, you can admire both the passing parade on Bush and the judiciously chosen art hung on purple and yellow walls.
Who knew? The dining room is modestly chic. - M. BRODY
  • M. Brody
  • Who knew? The dining room is modestly chic.
The phở's presentation was glamorous, in stoneware on red and black lacquer, though the herb-and-vegetable side plate was meager (only bean sprouts, a few sprigs of Thai basil, and a lone stem of cilantro). But the broth was tasty and the quality of the meats uniformly excellent. We especially enjoyed the firm little five spice-scented beef balls, rather like mild sausage. This was Hi-Phở indeed.

The place could also be called Good Morning Vietnam, since it offers Vietnamese spring rolls ($3.95) and five spice-grilled chicken or pork chop over rice ($6.25). China represents via baked rice Hong Kong style ($6.50-$7.50), served with your choice of coconut, tomato, black pepper, or cheese sauces. Pure comfort food -- and workers in those nearby high rises could certainly use some comfort these days.

Hi-Tea does both a brisk lunch business and a second wave, near closing time, at 5:30, when office cube denizens heading for home pick up expertly packaged takeout. Hi-ho BART and Muni.

Hi-Tea 110 Bush (at Battery), 391-3322. Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Closed Sun.

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The Commonwealth Club is Hosting a Gourmet Rock Star

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 11:00 AM

Ruth Reichl in our favorite disguise. - GOURMET.COM
  • gourmet.com
  • Ruth Reichl in our favorite disguise.
Gourmet editor-in-chief, former New York Times restaurant critic, and author Ruth Reichl is a rock star of the culinary world, one who famously donned radical disguises to avoid detection while eating on behalf of the NYT. These days, she's not in hiding -- Reichl is a friendly faced ambassador for eating well at home and on one's travels. Catch her sans costumery when Commonwealth Club hosts Reichl in a talk about simple and satisfying recipes from the Gourmet Today cookbook: Tuesday, September 29, 6:15 p.m. at Cubberly Theatre (4000 Middlefield at San Antonio, Palo Alto). Admission is $25 ($15 for Commonwealth Club members). For $100 (members and non-members alike) you get entry to a Draeger's-catered reception and a copy of Gourmet Today; order tix here.

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Does Pim Techamuanvivit's Book Reveal the Limits of the Blog Form?

Posted By on Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 10:00 AM

The Chez Pim blogger's book: Raising questions?
  • The Chez Pim blogger's book: Raising questions?
Over at Eat Me Daily, Helen Rosner went totally Universal Soldier on The Foodie Handbook: The (almost) Definitive Guide to Gastronomy -- O.G. Bay Area food blogger Pim Techamuanvivit's debut softcover (Chronicle Books, $24.95). On the brink of serious mainstream exposure, Pim very recently surfaced as the subject of a short New York Times piece debating blogger ethics. In addition to being a blogger, a writer, and a freewheeling scarfer-about-the-globe, she's now "brand cheerleader" for Rachel's, a line of yogurt and cottage cheese products owned by the $12 billion dairy corporation Dean Foods.

Rosner skirts this issue and sticks it -- really sticks it -- to the book, leveling a dizzying parade of charges: Pim wants to be Rachael Ray, except fancier and more than a little elitist. Her book is poorly organized. Her descriptions of the ways foods taste are weak and uninspiring. She hangs her hat on an overused buzzword -- "foodie" -- but clings to "a frustratingly undemocratic definition of what qualifies." Rosner scorches on: "In her list of fifty things that foodies must do in their life, she tosses off decrees with the oblivious nonchalance of a socialite: we aren't granted the title of foodie if we try for a table at El Bulli; we receive that honor only if we manage to actually get one...shouldn't the goal here be finding pleasure in the daily act of sustenance? Being a foodie isn't something you do for show, it's what you are even when no one is looking."

Now, we haven't read the book, so we're just going to hang back, fan at the smoke, and chuckle, but the first comment to Rosner's review begs a semi-fresh question worth paring away from the fray. According to the commenter known only as ~m, "most bloggers shouldn't write anything longer than 500 words" -- presumably meaning that Techamuanvivit should have stuck to the rivers and lakes she was used to. In his or her general expressed sentiment, ~m is probably correct. A blog is often essentially a diary of a person's ongoing relationship with something very broad -- like food, sports, or movies -- or alternately, something very specific -- like Things My Date Really Said Last Night. The blog form doesn't always easily translate to a fully realized, coherent, focused treatise. In addition, a lot of bloggers write as if they're running out of breath. Many would surely love to sling their lifestyles à la Pim. All the same, couldn't it work the other way around too? Isn't blogging in its most evolved state by now some kind of an art form as well? Should even serious scribes with books under their belts and lofty contributing editor positions at respected magazines think twice before starting up a blog just because the kids are doing it? We're not suggesting M.F.K. Fisher would have been a shitty blogger, just wondering if the particular issue isn't to some extent a two-way street.

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