Pressing question: Believe us, we know the sucky reality of a career in journo, when the walls are everywhere collapsing like a playhouse fashioned out of newspaper. And we don't wish extinction on anyone -- honest. But today, Michael Bauer's Between Meals makes us wonder why anyone'd be surprised that the daily news biz is looking as anachronistic as a crystal punchbowl set.
A reader writes Bauer with a nagging inquiry: Just how much should one tip on a $300 bottle of wine? To be fair, we should point out that Bauer admits he doesn't recall ever ordering a wine that cost three bills. Still, he treats the question with enough seriousness that he puts in a call to RN74 wine poobah Rajat Parr, but not before he tries to work out the puzzle himself: Some people think when a wine is more than $500, the tip should be kind of like a flat fee that's considerably less than 20 percent. However, people vary widely on what they think is "proper." Some people? What people? Thurston and Lovey Howell? Sheesh, dude.
Some folks seem to think that using the area for a farmers' market -- even only one day a week -- will cause major traffic headaches. According to a recent WTOP.com report, "FreshFarm Markets is asking that Vermont Avenue between H and I Streets, NW be closed every Thursday between 1 p.m. and 8 p.m. -- a stretch of time that would cover the entire afternoon rush hour." FreshFarm Markets operates several other farmers' markets in the D.C. area. Some accept food stamps and senior citizen coupons.
"It sounds horrific, and I figured it's the easiest way for me to give back a little bit," said WYD owner Bill. He hopes to be selling on the street this weekend, if the weather's nice -- check his Twitter page for updates. WYD also makes direct deliveries to clients.
But simplicity isn't always easy to pull off. Sure, the kitchen nailed it with an appetizer of fig-walnut anchoïade ($8) served with leafy radishes. You couldn't devise a more ardent homage to Chez Panisse: the soft, mashy dip, softly radiating anchovy, above a dark, sweet shadow of fruit. And a little munchie of cheddar crackers ($3) were as tasty as the browned, frazzled ooze from a grilled cheese sandwich.
Other dishes cried out for more polish. An app of potted foie gras ($14), encased in congealed duck fat, offered up a livery nub all but lost in its unctuous insulation. A rib steak for two ($48) had the intense animal throb of nicely aged beef, but -- webbed with fat and sinew -- it was difficult to cut and, when it came to some of the muscle fibers running through the steak, chew. A side of corn pudding ($6) had a one-dimensional sweetness and soft, pappy texture.
Still, we'd be fools to give up on the new Bar Tartine after a single dinner. If Kronner can make the simplicity of the menu approach the dark elegance of Tartine's narrow dining room -- brooding as a Dutch painting -- he'll have achieved something worthy of the reshaping.
Bar Tartine 561 Valencia (at 16th St.), 487-1600
If you think you'll feel like grooving (or staggering around) after all that sake, consider taking in the Sila and the Afrofunk Experience, a show with an open dance floor, also at Yoshi's tomorrow. The Oakland Trib once called Kenyan Sila Mutungi the James Brown of Africa. Two performances (8 p.m. and 10 p.m.); tickets are $10 for the early show, $18 for the later one, or $20 for both.
With the dumping last week of Preeti Mistry, Noblia is half (with Laurine Wickett) of what's left of Team S.F. See how he fares with the judges on tonight's Top Chef episode, 10 p.m. on Bravo.
SFoodie: Why and how did you become a chef?
Noblia: I always wanted to be a chef since I was 5 years old. Mainly my Dad inspired my cooking while I was growing up.
What's your restaurant history?
We [Iluna Basque] have been open since February 2003. I was 23 years old when I opened it -- it was my dream to open a Basque restaurant to represent my country and culture of the Basque people. We all wear a red scarf to represent the Basque country, and you can now add $2 to your bill in exchange for a red scarf, and the proceeds will go to the charity Pathways for Kids.
Why San Francisco?
San Francisco is probably my favorite city in the U.S. It's probably one of the most European cities, and the weather is great all year round -- when it's not foggy!
What compelled you to be on Top Chef?
I really wanted to give myself the chance to open up to new horizons and projects. Also to bring my chef career to the next level.
Did you become close with any of your Top Chef colleagues?
Yes, of course I have. But you know, Top Chef contestants are spread out all over the United States, so it's harder to keep in touch as much as I wish I could.
Since the show ended, has competing on Top Chef influenced your cooking?
Yes, I've learned a few new tricks, and gotten more confidence as well.
Favorite things to cook? Ingredients? Styles?
I love to cook calamari, foie gras, truffles, duck -- a very French/Basque style of cooking. I use a lot of piment d'Espelette, as my Mom makes it in the Basque country.
Favorite places to eat in San Francisco?
I love Turtle Tower for pho. I go there a lot -- my friend Sonny Nguyen took me there the first time. But also I enjoy 5A5 Steak Lounge and Anchor & Hope.
How did you like living, shopping, and working in Las Vegas?
For me, living in Las Vegas was a first, especially for that long. It was definitely drying out my skin, and there were not many activities besides gambling and partying. Whole Foods in Las Vegas could have had more original proteins to cook with, but of course they have all kinds of good organic stuff. Vegas doesn't have any farmers' markets, and that's a problem for a chef like me. I'll go back to Vegas again to party!
Not everyone concurs though. This week, Mission Loc@l reported on a brand-new store in the Mission selling, for now, a single product: coconuts, in bunches upon lovely bunches. Owner Oscar Avila's Coco Loco vends approximately 180 coconuts a day at $2.50 a pop, many more on particularly steamy afternoons. For this refreshing source of manganese, fiber, and purported cleansing properties, scrap together some change and visit 2770 Mission (at 24th St.).
• Who are our farm laborers, and what are their lives like?
• What can farm owners do to keep their workers safe and happy, without breaking the bank?
Panelists include Sandy Brown, co-owner of Swanton Berry Farm near Santa Cruz, the first organic farm where workers have a UFW contract, and Maisie Greenawalt of Bon Appétit Management Co., which forged a buying agreement with the Imokolee workers. The panel runs from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Thursday, September 10, and takes place in the Port Commission Hearing Room on the second floor of the Ferry Building. The event is open to the public and free (donations accepted). There'll be a short reception afterwards, with what are described as "farmers' market snacks."
