If you haven't bought into the whole Julia-in-Paris thing, go have a banh mi. If you still imagine that Parisians eat stuff like blanquette de veau and clafoutis (instead of what they actually eat: Royales with Cheese and mediocre Chinese), take SF Weekly food critic Meredith Brody's advice: lunch on French onion soup and quiche lorraine at Le Zinc, 4063 24th St. (at Castro), 647-9400.
