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Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Early Bird Special: Trademark

Posted By on Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 9:58 AM

click to enlarge Belden Alley: S.F.'s urban Epcot now has an American place. - K. TODD STORCH/FLICKR
  • K. Todd Storch/Flickr
  • Belden Alley: S.F.'s urban Epcot now has an American place.
An early nibble of the Weekly's Wednesday food review.

Like some urban, particularly fragrant Epcot Center, Belden Alley has long offered the city a taste of global cuisines. Recognizably Euro cuisines, anyway, what with Plouf and Café Bastille, Café Tiramisu, and the Barcelona copycat B44. But where the vodka bar Voda once offered a taste of, well, Vegas, stands Trademark (56 Belden at Pine), a restaurant devoted to a broad sweep of consciously American foods, built from a walk-in full of gorgeous summer produce. SF Weekly restaurant critic Matthew Stafford found dishes he liked, smack up against dishes he didn't. Which ones had him getting all lyrical about the season's, um, fecundity? Find out at Meantime, get the lay of the land via this excerpt (after the jump).

It's the brainchild of Peter Snyderman and Jerry Mendoza, owner and chef (respectively) of the Elite Cafe on Fillmore. Unlike its Louisiana-centric sister establishment, Trademark takes in a broader swath of the American culinary landscape, serving up Caesar salad, collard greens, grilled ribeye, rhubarb crisp, and other down-home standards with a California Cuisine-y focus on organic ingredients, and with the always-welcome Mediterranean influence popping up here and there. The results are hearty and often delectable, especially with all that summertime produce at hand.

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