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Thursday, July 30, 2009

Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 5:45 PM

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Our favorite morsels from the food blogs and beyond.

Not so yummy: Yesterday GraceAnn Walden did a Brett Favre on the Yummy Letter, only instead of Walden deciding to retire, its was the Yummy Letter that retired on her. Publisher Susan Dyer Reynolds delivered the grim news about the foodie newsletter, which launched six months ago: I am sad to say that today's Yummy letter [sic] will be our last. GraceAnn and I have savored every minute of it; however, in these tough economic times we simply could not raise enough advertising dollars to sustain the project, and, unfortunately, we have run out of money. Walden, ex-Chron Food staffer and originator of its "Inside Scoop" column, says she'll continue to yack on KGO, both on the Ronn Owens show and as sometime host of Gene Burns' Dining Around, and continue writing the "Chef's Chat" column for Northside San Fancisco. As a food reporter for Yummy, Walden was ballsy and occasionally crusty, possessed of a Rolodex bristling with chef's cell numbers: a real maven's maven. The Yummy Letter failed to reach a wide readership (hard to do in six months), and Walden never shied away from plugging her other endeavors, from neighborhood walking tours to her own newsletter. But hey, it's hard out here for a pimp. We'll miss ya, GraceAnn.

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Spruce Marks Two Years with a Double-icious Dinner

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 4:39 PM

So big already? - CHRISTINE C./YELP
  • Christine C./Yelp
  • So big already?
Anyone who follows the restaurant business in this town knows that thriving for two years (hell, even surviving) is no small feat, especially for a fine-dining establishment. To celebrate its second birthday, New American spot Spruce (3640 Sacramento at Spruce) is throwing a special dinner this Sunday. Chef Mark Sullivan's Celebration Menu rings true to the Spruce mantra of local, local, local. Its three courses focus on local farmers and their products, with each course getting the "two-way" treatment.

First: Dirty Girl heirloom tomatoes, prepared in a tomato salad with Gioia burrata and rice-wine vinaigrette and in a gazpacho. Next: Grimaud Farms guinea hen, the breast wrapped in Hobbs applewood-smoked bacon, and the leg prepared confit style with summer vegetables and jus. Dessert: Hamada Farms two stone-fruits crostata with vanilla bean ice cream. Word has it that there'll also be a special birthday surprise.

It's happening Sunday, August 2, $55 per person, plus $20 for wine pairings. Spruce's regular menu will also be available. Call 351-1212.

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Escape All the Fog and Cruelty This Weekend at the Vegan and Vegetarian Food Fest

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 4:14 PM

Time to get out of town. - JAHAT/FLICKR
  • jahat/Flickr
  • Time to get out of town.
Given our crappy weather, ample sausages, and an embarrassment of generally meaty action catering to local carnivores, we're guessing vegans and vegetarians might seriously consider driving 40 minutes north of the city for this weekend's first annual Vegan and Vegetarian Food Festival. The free event revs up daily at 11 a.m. in La Plaza Park (corner of Old Redwood Highway and West Sierra Avenue in downtown Cotati). Food from 15 Sonoma-area restaurants and caterers will be sold, and the festival is timed to coincide with a national vegetarian conference happening at nearby Sonoma State.

Festival-goers will be able to take in crafts, music, martial arts, dance troupes, and performing kids' groups, all while wallowing in cruelty-free chow. Organizers are expecting some 5,000 folks to attend. The vendors lineup includes Raw Bliss Foods, Taqueria El Coronel, Sahara Middle Eastern Cuisine, Oliver's Market, Nan's Gourmet Foods, JK's Four Season, Seed, El Malecon, Fresh China, Karma's Indian Bistro, and Sally Tomatoes. Meals for Change is expected to serve Shepherdless Pie and Chunky Vegetable Paella, and sweets seekers may find nirvana in desserts from California Funnel Cakes, Pinky's Old Fashion Cotton Candy & Treats, and Del Secco's Gelato 'N Sweets. Nobody said giving up animal meant giving up indulgence, right?

For more information, call (707) 591-1786.

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Street Food in the Napa Valley? Whatever

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 3:41 PM

The view from the Brix patio: Watch out for street urchins. - FTPOED/FLICKR
  • FTPoed/Flickr
  • The view from the Brix patio: Watch out for street urchins.
Jumping the shark. Sooner or later, everything has to, whether it's the Bradys in Hawaii, Blossom in Paris, or that Kara chick on American Idol.

As for local street food, it may have glimpsed its shark today, with the announcement by Napa Valley's Brix (7377 St. Helena Highway, Yountville): three dinners meant to showcase, in the words of the press release, "Executive Chef Anne Gingrass-Paik's passion for exotic 'street food.'" Frankly, that word exotic would make us reach for the clicker, if only this were Blossom. Instead, we're kind of fascinated by the "Brix Unpaved" menus (Mumbai Fare, Bollywood Flair on August 20th, One Night in Bangkok on September 17th, and Street Feasts of Sicily on October 15th).

Now, we're sure chef Gingrass-Paik is super talented,and we've no doubt she's got passion for street food. But come on, ever been to Brix? It's lovely, rambling place backing up to vegetable and herb gardens with vineyards beyond, and there's a gift shop in the lobby. The press release again: "Guests of 'Brix Unpaved' will enter from the north side of the gardens along a decorative bulb-strung walkway where they will find a 'street' lined with food stalls."

You can score advance tickets for $35 ($40 the nights of) -- cheap by Yountville standards, though not exactly streety. And while we're not sure all the dishes will offer authentic tastes of the streets of Mumbai, Bangkok, or any other teeming megatropolis, we're pretty sure you'll catch a hefty whiff of shark mingling with the scent of lavender drifting in from the garden.

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On National Cheesecake Day, Finding the Old-Fashioned Variety in S.F. Can Be Tricky

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 2:26 PM

Oh no, you don't: The cheesecake at Zanze's. - JUN SEITA/FLICKR
  • Jun Seita/Flickr
  • Oh no, you don't: The cheesecake at Zanze's.
Even if you hadn't marked today as National Cheesecake Day on your calendar, the Cheesecake Factory did. Dine there today -- the San Francisco location is on the eighth floor of Macy's (251 Geary at Stockton) -- any slice is half-price. In further celebration of the big day, the Factory is introducing its newest flavor today: Stefanie's Ultimate Red Velvet Cake cheesecake, named for the winner of an online contest (for the next year, 25 cents from each sales will got to Feeding America). Since a slice of Factory cheesecake starts at $6.50, escalating quickly to $7.95, today might be the day to try it.

Normally we'd head straight for the soufflé-like version at Zanze's. Alas, it's closed for summer vacation until August 20. The city does offer a few intriguing alternatives, although it seems easier to find a frozen Thai basil soufflé with chocolate ganache and blackberry soup (Zinnia) or chocolate-cherry baked Alaska with beet cake and cocoa nib paper (Absinthe) than the old-fashioned version. Even the steakhouses, where cheesecake used to be the inevitable sweet ending, are hit-or-miss in this town: Harris Ranch, Acme Chophouse, Lark Creek Steak, no; Morton's, yes -- New York cheesecake for an eye- (and no doubt stomach-) popping $9.

Mission Beach Café has a modish honey lavender cheesecake ($7) -- they've been known to do a Blue Bottle mocha flavor, too. Our pick for Best New Bakery in 2008, Thorough Bread and Pastry Co., offers individual cheesecakes topped with fresh strawberries and blueberries ($5.50). And there's always the cream cheese ice cream at Humphry Slocombe ($3.25/scoop) -- that is, as long as it's one of the dozen or so available flavors. Today, it's not, though you might glimpse a bit of cheesecake deliciousness in the Straus plum yogurt, which you can get. Don't you just love San Francisco?

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Zuppa's Sidewalk Sausage Reaches for Street-Food Glory

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 2:01 PM

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Positively Fourth Street: Zuppa's sidewalk grill.

​Everybody's angling for a slice of street-food immortality -- or at least, a few bucks from diners who may not have the scratch for sit-down. 

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Can you spot the flaw?
For oh, six months now, Zuppa (564 Fourth St. at Brannan) has been setting up a lunchtime sausage grill on its patch of Fourth Street sidewalk, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays. For $5, you get a Niman spicy pork link cooked over mesquite in a little iron hibachi, topped with long-cooked onions and peppers. The sausage we tasted was plush and juicy, with a heap of gilded sweetness from the onion-pepper mix. But it wasn't without it's oh-no-they-din't moment, courtesy of the cold and kind of pasty Sara Lee hot dog bun, straight out the bag. Totally killed our street-food buzz.

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Market Report: Earth Island Expands into Former PlayStation Store, Adds Vendors

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 11:47 AM

Cupcake maker Kingdom of Cake is one of 10 new vendors. - MEREDITH BRODY
  • Meredith Brody
  • Cupcake maker Kingdom of Cake is one of 10 new vendors.
On Monday last week, the Earth Island Farmers' Market in the Metreon (101 Fourth St. at Mission) expanded into the former Sony PlayStation store on Fourth Street, adding more than 10 new vendors. The market opened in mid-May with some two dozen prepared food stalls and produce sellers in the space on Mission that once housed the Discovery Channel Store.

"The PlayStation space was always part of our plans," organizer Mark Brett told SFoodie. "Within the first four weeks of the first space opening, we had a waiting list of vendors. Our original lease runs through next summer, but we have options to extend. And the Metreon management is so pleased they've offered us spaces in two of their other malls." Brett did suggest management was moving ahead with launching two new farmers' markets in Westfield properties, but declined to say where. The Metreon market was conceived as a kind of placeholder until owner Westfield begins a major remodel in late 2010. Plans call for turning the Metreon's ground floor into a restaurant arcade, reportedly featuring the likes of Mixt Greens and Best-O-Burger.

Among the new vendors to the expanded farmers' market are cupcake company Kingdom Cake (50 rotating flavors, including basil-lemon-blueberry and vegan coconut). There's also Tara's Organic Ice Cream, which originated in New Mexico but moved to the Bay Area to be near its suppliers, primarily Strauss organic dairy in Marin.

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Upscale Italian Deli Expected to Open in SOMA Next Month

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 10:39 AM

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An Italian deli and food market with upscale aspirations is slated to open on Townsend near Caltrain early next month.

Starting August 10, D'Urso Italian Delicatessen (236 Townsend at Fourth St.) will serve up breakfast and lunch sandwiches featuring a mix of imported and domestic meats and cheeses. There'll be soups and salads made in house, as well as organic coffee and breakfast pastries baked on site. It's a first venture for owner Joe D'Urso, who told SFoodie he grew up in an East Coast restaurant family. He described D'Urso as a "specialty destination," hawking not only prepped foods but a small offering of olive oils, balsamic, and pastas, in addition to cheeses, salumi, and other meats. The small storefront used to be a gym, D'Urso said, "back when people could afford private trainers."

Lunch sandwiches will range from $5 to $7.95. And while the menu's still in flux, expect offerings like Calabrese salami with tapenade, heirloom tomatoes, and balsamic, and pork loin panino with apple chutney, arugula, and Fontina. D'Urso's Web site is still under construction. Opening hours are expected to be Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-7 p.m., and Sat. 7 a.m.-3 p.m.

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Eight Places to Satisfy your Chicken and Waffle Cravings

Posted By on Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 9:48 AM

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A favorite of stoners and soul food lovers alike, chicken and waffles is the ultimate combination of dinner and breakfast. Wondering where to find the best spots that dish up this sweet and savory combination? We've compiled a coast-to-coast list of favorites.

1. Little Skillet
Located right here in San Francisco, the recently opened Little Skillet serves up traditional chicken and waffles along with a laundry list of sides, including mushroom-herb gravy, sausage gravy, strawberry-rhubarb jam, and butterscotch. Not in the mood for  chicken and waffles? Little Skillet also offers angel biscuits, po' boys, and straight-up boxes of chicken.


2. Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles
Roscoe's

brought chicken and waffles from Harlem to the West Coast back in the

1970s. Now the Los Angeles chain is the go-to pop culture reference for

the combo, with celebrities like Snoop Dogg and Arsenio Hall praising

the goodies dished out here. Any day now, early Roscoe's alum Michele

Wilson is expected to launch her own place, Gussies' Chicken and

Waffles, in San Francisco.

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