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Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Hot Meal: Il Cane Rosso

Posted By on Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 12:29 PM

Meredith Brody
The menu flaunts the farms and ranches where ingredients were sourced.
Last week, chef Daniel Patterson (Coi) and Lauren Kiino (formerly of Delfina) opened Il Cane Rosso (One Ferry Building at The Embarcadero), the little rotisserie-sandwich shop of our dreams. Kiino's red dog inspired the name, but the food, according to Il Cane Rosso's Web site, takes inspiration from "the small, family run stores that have fed southern Italy for generations." The menu changes daily, and lists the farms and ranches supplying the meats and produce that day. Antipasti like Peach Farm Early Girl tomato panzanella and marinated Full Belly and Peach Farm watermelon with cucumbers, feta, and chile oil (both $7.50) seem to flaunt the pedigree of their ingredients.

An Andante Dairy formaggio fresco and Blossom Bluff Farm peaches sandwich with toasted pistachios and arugula was tempting. So was a warm Soul Food Farm egg salad with "bagna cauda" butter and smoked mozzarella. But since a forthright meaty scent was wafting from the rotisserie, we settled on the Range Brothers Ranch porchetta with Santa Rosa plum mostarda and mustard greens on an Acme roll (all sandwiches are $9). We threw in the piatto del giorno, roasted Pozzi Farm lamb with Happy Quail orange, yellow, and green peppers and polenta ($12.50). Both were delicious, the full-flavored lamb, topped with a few strands of salty agretti, astonishingly so.

Coi and Kiino hope to have a wine and beer license by the end of the month. Until then, try a Fentiman's soda ($4.50), in flavors that include ginger beer and burdock root/dandelion. And what is the bacon-caramel granoturco ($5) you might ask? Very seductive housemade peanut brittle. More photos after the jump.

Meredith Brody
The piatto del giorno: Lamb and peppers with polenta.

Meredith Brody
Owner Lauren Kiino's dog served as inspiration.

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Meredith Brody


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