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Monday, July 6, 2009

Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 6:06 PM

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Our favorite morsels from the food blogs and beyond.

Riding is thirsty work: You know how it is: Sometimes you gotta pop a cold one just to get the smell of those greasy blue seats out of your nose. Read the blog Beer by BART and you can be tickling your nostrils with IPA foam within minutes of leaving a station. Bloggers Gail Ann Williams and Steve Shapiro have been mapping beer venues within a mile or so of Bay Area Bart stations since March 2007. They're suds enthusiasts and pub transport fiends, with a reasonable argument to fuse them: Why not let train operators be your designated drivers, since they're going your way anyhow? How did we miss this site till now?

Taco envy: At Squid Ink, our sister blog from LA Weekly, Diane Cu describes a street taco vendor who frequents L.A.'s Olympic Blvd. From a rattly cart topped with an improvised comal (a cookie sheet over a heat source) the unnamed vendor engineers serious taco love: Taco-hungry customers huddle around her little makeshift stall: a small, metal folding hand cart jammed with homemade salsas, chiles, masa for the tortillas, handmade fillings of fresh nopales, beef-potato and chicken-mushroom, all carefully assembled under Downtown L.A.'s sweltering summer heat. So why are we bothering? Because Cu's pics, especially, lay down a certain standard for street-food tacos all too rare in S.F. Damn you, L.A.!

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Tenderloin Nightclub Morphing Into 222, a Trendy Thin-Crust Eatery

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 5:05 PM

222 Hyde in sweatier times: Anybody here jonesing for a salumi plate? - JOSEPH LUBUSHKIN
  • Joseph Lubushkin
  • 222 Hyde in sweatier times: Anybody here jonesing for a salumi plate?
Shuttered Tenderloin club 222 Hyde (SF Weekly Clubs Editor John Graham has described it as a "slumming-hipster nightclub") is apparently being reborn as 222, a thin-crust pizza place. A two-page Web site is up online. It includes a short menu of small plates, antipasti, pizzas, and braised specials: salumi, pizza margherita, ragu over fresh egg pasta. No details yet on the new owners or a target opening date, though by the look of things it'll be soon. We're wondering: Is the heart of the 'Loin ready for an eatery angling for trendy?

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Pi Bar Still Has Some Work to Do to Remake Shuttered Thai Space

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 4:19 PM

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Mary Ladd
The former Suriya Thai on Valencia is undergoing a transformation.

Seventeen is a long time in restaurant years. It was sad to see a Valencia Street fave, Suriya Thai (1432 Valencia at 25th St.), shutter earlier this year on March 4th.

Suriya was an oasis of calm, offering delectable and balanced Thai dishes in an attractive yet comfy setting. Once Suriya left, the space sat empty for over two months. New owners have moved in -- they've announced plans for Pi Bar, a thin-crust pizza haven (heaven?).

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Mary Ladd
A soon-to-be locus of thin-crust bliss?
Today's pics note progress on the remodel, and reports of an August opening are in, pending permit and ABC approval. Cheese slices will reportedly go for $3.14, salads are promised, and plans call for staying open late. The Mission's pizza scene keeps getting better by the day, even if only in anticipation.

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Portuguese Bistro-Slash-Food Shop Horatius Brings Big Drama to Potrero

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 2:45 PM

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It's part café, part food shop and event space, with a dose of Williams Sonoma thrown in for good measure. The sprawling, soaring new food venture Horatius opened in Potrero Hill late last month (350 Kansas at 16th St.), with a crest-y logo that'd be right at home at the mall (preppy polos for Abercrombie wannabes?). That may be because the owners have obvious retail aspirations: Though the heart of Horatio is a café serving up bistro food with a Portuguese slant, the rest of the rustic modern space offers olive oils, wines, a few high-end groceries, cheeses, even bowls and platters.

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The open interior is rustic modern.
The look is all pale gray walls and exposed trusses, pools of sun from myriad skylights, and a back wall clad in weathered barn wood (the massive doors slide open to receive projection images for parties and other events). Owners Horacio Gomes and Michael Greaney ar CEO and COO, respectively, of HeadQuarters, a Spanish-language advertising agency whose offices are down the street on Brannan (though they'll be moving to the still-under-construction-space next door). Ex-Sur La Table culinary director Kimberley Davis is manager.

Davis and exec chef Antelmo Faria told SFoodie dinner service is slated to begin August 1 (you can currently score breakfast and lunch from the order-it-yourself counter, Mon.-Sat., 7 a.m.-3:30 p.m.). They described the concept as comfort foods that hype Portuguese and "core Mediterranean" flavors (Spanish, Italian, North African). For the current menu, Faria -- previously of La Salette, the Portuguese café in Sonoma -- is drawing from the Portuguese food he grew up with: bacalhau á casa (salt cod hash), chicken with chile-laced piri-piri marinade. Future menus should emphasize other Med cuisines.

Continue reading »

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TiVo Alert: Bi-Rite Creamery on 'The Best Thing I Ever Ate'

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 2:35 PM

Bi-Rite Creamery's Banana Split.
  • Bi-Rite Creamery's Banana Split.
If you think the line is bad now, just wait! Bi-Rite Creamery (3692 18th at Dolores) takes a star turn on tomorrow night's "Sugar Rush" episode of Food Network's The Best Thing I Ever Ate.

"Sugar Rush" airs on Tuesday, July 7 at 9:30 p.m.; Wednesday, July 8 at 12:30 a.m.; and Saturday, July 18 at 6 p.m. on the Food Network.

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Sugar Highs at the Fiona's Sweetshoppe Happy Hour

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 1:43 PM

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Fiona's Sweetshoppe (214 Sutter at Kearny) is a tiny gem of a confectionery downtown where most of your key British sugar needs, from Lion and Star bars to Curly Wurlys and Wine Gums, all have a tidy spot. But the real highlight are the hard candies sold by the quarter pound out of apothecary-like jars.

This month, the store is holding its version of happy hour from 6 to 7 p.m. on weekdays, offering a 25 percent discount on all hard sweets. SFoodie recommends the rhubarb and custard sweets, the sour apple balls, and the West Indian lime fizzy candies, but there are all sorts of vibrantly flavored offerings from which to choose.

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City of Burgers: Thrill of the Grill's Kobe

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 12:46 PM

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Mary Ladd
Double the meat, double the delcious.
Though some may gripe that this place has all the makings of a restaurant that exists solely to cater to drunks, Thrill of the Grill has more to offer than that. Sure, it's a super casual restaurant that may at first glance seem like a logical meeting spot for the wasted. And it does fulfill all the criteria for drunk hangout: prime Valencia corridor location; carb-o-riffic menu of burgers, cheesesteaks, and pizza; late hours; piped in technopop; and delivery service. But Thrill of the Grill deserves serious mention for its juicy, hearty burgers alone.

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With its hint of smokiness and double stack of beef patties (a blend of ground Kobe and regular beef), the Kobe Burger ($6.5) we tasted only needed a touch more melt on the grated cheddar cheese, please. The burger fared better in comparison to the Thrill of the Grill's Philly cheesesteak sandwich with grilled onions and Provolone -- like the skinny freezer fries, it was passable, if nothing extraordinary. Drinks are of the nonalcoholic variety only, and include soda, iced tea, and organic juice blends. In other words, get your drink on elsewhere before coming here, drunks -- and everyone else, too.

Thrill of the Grill 535 Valencia (at 16th St.), 776-7100

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SFoodie's Five Favorite Local White Trash Dishes

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 12:35 PM

 

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sarahsuannecox via Flickr
Broken Record's Frito Pie
San Francisco fancies itself a haute eating town, but the truth is we sometimes have a taste for something a little bit less refined. Rip open a bag of pork rinds (the kind you get at 7-Eleven), pop a Fanta, kick up your feet and enjoy our five favorite local white trash dishes.

1. Frito Pie at the Broken Record (1166 Geneva at Edinburgh)
This has most of the major food groups in one bowl: dairy, vegetables, meat, and processed.

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David Gallagher/Flickr
2. Pickled Pigs Feet at Alfred's Steakhouse (659 Merchant at Kearny)
Who doesn't like to suck on an acidic toe before heaps of beef land on the table?

3. Whitetrash Driver at Butter (354 11th at Folsom)
If you need something to wash down Butter's beans 'n' weenies or the fried Twinkie, nothing hits the spot more than this sophisticated blend of vodka and Sunny-D.

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7-how-7/Flickr
4. Fried Cheese Grit Sticks at Memphis Minnie's (576 Haight at Steiner)
Most of Minnie's grub is deliciously messy, but she's thoughtfully fried up the cheese grits into a self-contained package that you can clink together like glasses in a trashy toast.

5. Picked Quail Eggs at Alembic (1725 Haight at Cole)
Okay, the use of quail instead of chicken eggs is a bit of a fanciful twist on classic trailer park eating. But think of it this way: You can eat a whole lot more of them.

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Summer Reading That Won't Make You Stupid: Sonoma Farm Diary That Thinks Globally

Posted By on Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 11:33 AM

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In Field Days: A Year of Farming, Eating, and Drinking in California (UC Press, $24.95), Sonoma State professor Jonah Raskin writes about more than just day-to-day operations at family-run, organic Oak Hill Farm alongside Mexican immigrants, an Irish mechanic, and a French beekeeper. Raskin also describes the growth and history of the organic movement, touching on Jack London (who named Sonoma the Valley of the Moon), Luther Burbank, Robert Rodale, Adelle Davis, Wendell Berry, and even Rudolf Steiner, the mystical German father of biodynamics. Other inhabitants and chroniclers of Sonoma, including M. F. K. Fisher, Alice Waters, Slow Food's Carlo Petrini, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Michael Pollan, show up -- dare we say organically? The author also shows us the local (and international) problems of development, global warming, and honeybee colony collapse, as well as the organic agribusiness that fuels Whole Foods. Though Raskin is not a particularly lyrical writer, you may find yourself putting down the book to prepare a meal like the one he describes on page 167: "three ears of freshly picked corn with butter and black pepper and sliced tomatoes with vinegar and DaVero olive oil ... I stopped and looked at the ear of corn in my hands. I thought of where it was grown; I remembered the day it was picked, and then I took another bite and chewed slowly. It was delicious." When Raskin quotes Wendell Berry's "eating is an agricultural act," it doesn't take long to realize that writing can be one, also.

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