Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Hot Meal: Lunch at Wexler's

Posted By on Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:44 PM

Smoked chicken wings: A tad gnawy.
  • Smoked chicken wings: A tad gnawy.
Despite the buzz it's sparked, brand-new Wexler's (568 Sacramento at Montgomery) strikes you as tiny and a little prim, tucked away in a gray block of Sacramento along a concrete canyon in the Financial District. Even the dining room has a touch of the austere, despite its otherwise playful bronto-bones canopy rippling across the ceiling. Show up in a business suit at lunch, and you won't feel like some overdressed douchebag. Or at least not the only one.

click to enlarge hotmeal.jpg
The idea? Barbecue through a meticulously upscale lens, engineered by former Fish & Farm chef Charlie Kleinman. An appetizer of smoked chicken wings reimagined Buffalo by way of Manhattan: four joints stacked in a pool of yogurty, Pt. Reyes Original Blue dressing, with a flurry of blanched celery slices. Score the wings tasty, despite lingering rubberiness. The Sloppy Joe was better: shreddy bits of smoked brisket in some jamlike matrix of tomato frontin' slow sizzle. Its Acme ciabatta roll: perfect. The house-made bread-n-butter pickles: ditto. Even the skin-on roasted steak fries had a gravelly potato-ness that seemed, well, sincere. Only you probably don't want to show up here sporting cowboy boots and a pearl-buttoned work shirt. Unless, of course, you bought them at Barneys.

The Sloppy Joe: Shreddy and jamlike.
  • The Sloppy Joe: Shreddy and jamlike.

  • Pin It

Tags: ,


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"