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Monday, June 15, 2009

Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 6:25 PM

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Our favorite morsels from the food blogs and beyond.

High on a budget: The New York Times filled up on foil-wrapped fatties over the weekend as part of its Save or Splurge travel guide (the save: less than $250 a day; the splurge: conspicuous consumption at Coi). According to Jaime Gross, it's possible to feast for less than $20 in the "multiethnic Mission District" -- as long as you stick to the burritos at El Farolito, Papalote, and El Metate. But what's with wiggy girl in the pic, looking equal parts stoned and funereal? And is she really dipping a tab of E in guacamole?

Stuff on bread: Hot Food Porn offers up a half-yearly meditation on food trends so far, including these: hot dogs/sausages, all types of tacos except Mexican ones, slow food in trucks, even slower food in carts, ridiculous ice cream flavors, shutting down restaurants, and awesome mini burger commercials. Allow us to add a few more: gin, pizza that just won't die, and public butchery. What's next? Um, more pizza?

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Mrs. Hammer Can Cook

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 6:00 PM

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aetv.com
You can't touch Mrs. Hammer in the kitchen.
Last night saw the television debut of Hammertime, a reality show that follows Oakland native MC Hammer and his large family. With five children and one nephew living under their Tracy roof, Hammer's wife Stephanie Burrell spends a lot of time in the kitchen, a sight we expect will get a fair amount of screen time this season.

In the first episode, she is shown cooking pasta and chicken stir-fry for her family, but A&E's Web site, which offers a printable PDF of her recipes, reveals that Mrs. Hammer has got an arsenal of some pretty easy yet creative meal ideas. One notable is "Jeremiah's Meat Love," a meat loaf named after her 11-year-old. What gives it crunch and sweetness, something every meat loaf needs? Frosted Flakes.



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Offal Talented: Poggio Chef Named Winner of Sunday's Cochon 555

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 4:28 PM

Trotter Tots with pea-brain aioli, one of Peter McNee's winning dishes. - LAIKO BAHRS
  • Laiko Bahrs
  • Trotter Tots with pea-brain aioli, one of Peter McNee's winning dishes.
Call him the dark horse: Poggio's Peter McNee was named Prince of Porc at the Fairmont last night, nosing out four chefs to take the crown (well, funky pig trophy) in the latest Cochon 555 challenge. McNee had been considered the underdog in the competition, which seeks to hype heritage pork varieties.

In the six days before the event, McNee and Poggio sous chef Ian Banks turned a 110-pound Berkshire pig (raised by Devils Gulch Ranch farmer Mark Pasternak in West Marin) into a rather disturbing, reportedly delicious collection of cooked and cured dishes. There was Tongue in Cheek (a rolled pig's-head terrine), Trotter Tots (crispy fried croquettes, seasoned with pigskin salt and served with an aioli of peas and brains), Pig Haggis (stomach stuffed with blood and offal), and Dolce Forte (sweet pig's liver mousse with chocolate ganache).

Other contenders: Ryan Farr of 4505 Meats, Nate Appleman of A16, Staffan Terje of Perbacco, and Ravi Kapur of Boulevard. Some 300 attendees weighed in on their favorites; so did a judges' panel that included Nancy Oakes, Bruce Aidells, and a collection of pork farmers.

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Hot Meal: Marino in Hayes Valley

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 3:03 PM

Caldo de camaron: Don't skimp on the sexing up.
  • Caldo de camaron: Don't skimp on the sexing up.
Damn Diana Kennedy -- the author pretty much buzzkilled any Mexican cooking that doesn't have the snarliest regional hook, like the pork stew with tomatoes and wild pigweed her Yucatecan maid taught her to fix. That's what makes Marino (579 Hayes at Laguna), which opened today in Hayes Valley, something less than fierce. It offers a taste of Mexican home cooking -- as long as by home cooking you mean food assembled by someone living in a condo with access to a nice big freezer.

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If your high school Spanish fails you, you might not get that Marino is a seafood place, but the decor (ships' wheels and portholes, Cap'n Jack's style) leaves little doubt. The menu, however, skews Chevy's (fajitas, burritos, and combo plates), but there are also cocteles (seafood cocktails), including a grand Campechana and shrimp aguachile. Caldo de camaron, shrimp soup, is big, red and chunky, packed with deluxe frozen vegetable mix (which is to say, not just corn, green beans, and ripple-cut carrots, but lima beans, too, and even the odd piece of cauliflower). Sexed up with lime, it's not bad; crumble in shards of house-fried tortilla chips, and it begins to stir. And add a glob of the amazing table salsa (packed with flecks of charred tomato skin and a searing bite), and you swear you can make out the faintest echo of a snarl.

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The Great American Food and Music Fest: The Good, The Bad, and The Hungry

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 3:00 PM

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Marisol Segal
If you actually got food, there was reason to celebrate.
(View our full slideshow of the event)

We won't sugarcoat it: Saturday's Great American Food and Music Fest was riddled with major problems, from the almost immediate failure of a cashless wristband debit system for purchases to hours of impenetrable lines for food during much of the day. While it would be unfair to call it a universally bad experience, it was an event that roused a huge chorus of disgruntled voices, ranging from good-humored complaining to straight-up outrage.

As SFoodie entered the parking lot, we noticed streams of people leaving. We didn't think too much of it because it was a few hours into the day and we thought people might have had their fill of food.

Once we reached the gate, we learned that the opposite was true. Multiple lines for refunds had formed outside the box office. A group of women called out to us, warning us not to waste our time going in; they said they had waited more than an hour to get inside, that their wristbands didn't work, and that the lines for the vendors were already a few hours' long, with some of the key items (pastrami sandwiches from New York's Katz's Deli, cheesecake from Brooklyn's Junior's) already sold out.

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Inside a Happy Habit: A Factory Tour of See's Candies

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 11:25 AM

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Janine Kahn
Our tour guide, Jim Paine.
"We have so much going on here that you really need to go through everything four or five times to remember it all!" warned Jim Paine, longtime production manager at See's Candies' headquarters in South San Francisco.

Paine probably didn't intend for that to be the tease it was. But the fact was, SFoodie was inside the closed-door factory by special invitation, and odds weren't so hot we'd ever be back: We had to make the most of the moment. Surely it was never this hard to get into the fabled disco Studio 54, though both could be called palaces of dizzying decadence. The next 90 minutes were a bit like a whirlwind trip through a disco: impressions formed, then quickly vanished through sheer giddiness.

Entering into a giant storage area for white chocolate, nuts, and other fillings, Paine asked us how much time we had for a tour. It was a question we'd been waiting for all our lives.

"Until the police have to be called to cart us away!" we thought, mentally noting the corner where we'd set up camp. Instead, we said we'd love to be there as long as he could stand us. He introduced us to a smiling employee named Mary who happened to be passing by, a fortuitous coincidence given the company's matriarch (Charles A. See founded the company in 1921, and chose his mother Mary as its icon).

"What are your favorites?" we asked Paine, thoroughly unprepared for his answer.

"Actually, I'm not much of a sweets eater."

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'Yes We Can' at La Cocina Preserves a Sense of Community Along with Seasonal Produce

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 10:59 AM

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Hedy Macferran

If the enticing piles of produce at your local farmers' market lead to fantasies about doing your own canning, a Bay Area organization is ready to help. Yes We Can Food is a community canning project housed at La Cocina (2948 Folsom at 25th St.). It offers hands-on participation for those interested in preserving, and, for the rest of us, the ability to buy the results. Yes We Can cooks on Sundays, then hosts evening pick-up parties the following Wednesdays: You can buy the fruits (and vegetables!) of the canners' labor while snacking on samples. At the apricot party last week, Yes We Can's Anya Fernald supplied not only apricot tarts, but the recipe for the buttery crust.

Work shares to Yes We Can's three inaugural events (apricot jam in June, cucumber pickles in July, and tomatoes in September) are sold out, but you can still sign up for a box of goodies, attend the parties, and meet and greet the cooks. We walked away with two jars of apricot jam made from difficult-to-find, supersweet Blenheims, and two jars of Helena apricots in cardamom-flavored syrup, all for $20. (Eight jars would have run us $35 -- after spreading some of the jam on a hot English muffin, we were kicking ourselves for not buying more.)

More photos after the jump.

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Spin Zone: Pizza Pro Tony Gemignani Rocks Sunday's North Beach Festival

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 10:16 AM

Dough boy: Twirl master Tony Gemignani. - MARY LADD
  • Mary Ladd
  • Dough boy: Twirl master Tony Gemignani.
Hey, mambo! World pizza-tossing champion Tony Gemignani rocked the dough in his self-described "truly Italian" fashion at Sunday's North Beach Festival. Beer-swilling fans called out, danced, and jumped up and down as Gemignani performed. His crowd-pleasing tricks? Twirling dough into a shade-providing disc, pinching it into ever-growing size while in midair, then rolling it across his shoulders. The grand finale: catching the dough on his back. A Food Network and pizza pro, Gemignani owns Pyzano's Pizzeria in Castro Valley, an International Pizza School, plus a restaurant he swears is opening in North Beach in two weeks. For Gemignani, being a certified master from the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli seems to equal a lot of (tasty) dough. More evidence of Gemignani's chops after the jump.

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Organizer Apologizes for Saturday's Nightmarish Great American Food and Music Fest

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 6:30 AM

Long lines and disorganization left festival attendees frustrated. - SHAUNANDJENNY/FLICKR
  • shaunandjenny/Flickr
  • Long lines and disorganization left festival attendees frustrated.
Calling it "the first pancake," an organizer of Saturday's Great American Food and Music Fest published a lengthy apology Sunday for the event, which featured hours-long food lines and angry attendees demanding refunds. Ed Levine posted the mea culpa at his blog, Serious Eats, for the debacle at Shoreline Amphitheatre in Mountain View.

"This has been my dream for nearly two decades," Levine wrote. "I still believe in that dream. And the image I had in mind wasn't what took place yesterday." Festival attendees reportedly endured waits of up to four hours for vendors including Katz's Deli from New York and Tony Luke's Cheeseteaks from Philadelphia. "Frankly, people were so excited about the fest that they all showed up early, which doesn't normally happen at an all-day festival," Levine explained in his post. "That compounded the logistical issues. Our high-tech cashless wristband system, designed to be easy to use for serious eaters and purveyors alike, failed at the get-go." Read Levine's entire apology (and comments from many pissed-off attendees) at Serious Eats.

One commenter railed that the Katz's Deli booth had run out of food, at least temporarily, by 2:30 p.m, just a few hours into the day-long festival. The line for refunds reportedly stretched nearly as long as food lines.

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Sun-Dappled Eats, Cheap Beer, and Bonding with Strangers: A Foodie Day Planner

Posted By on Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 6:00 AM

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Monday, June 15, 2009

Let's do lunch:

WTF, buddy, you're living in a Mediterranean climate -- eat like it once in a while. SF Weekly restaurant critic Meredith Brody knows the perfect place to start: the ezme and iskender kebap at A La Turca (869 Geary at Larkin, 345-1011).

Drink therapy:

It opens at 6 a.m. -- you know, just in case you didn't make it to the liquor store last night. By 5 p.m., the barstools are warm and squishy, good time to show up for a cheap cold one. The 500 Club (500 Guerrero at 17th St., 861-2500).

It's like Cheers, only the regulars sometimes vomit in the restroom. Make a bleary connection over nightly beer specials at Shanghai Kelly's (2064 Polk at Broadway, 771-3300). Check the Web for details.

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Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"