Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Local Flavor: Humble Morning Pastries with an Upscale Chef's Touch

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 3:53 PM

Pastries from Arlequin Cafe: Huckleberry scone (left), rhubarb-ginger scone (center), and filled beignets - JANINE KAHN
  • Janine Kahn
  • Pastries from Arlequin Cafe: Huckleberry scone (left), rhubarb-ginger scone (center), and filled beignets
When a chef jumps from one upscale eatery to another, it's usually good news for, well, upscale eaters. But when high-style pastry chef Luis Villavelazquez left Orson for Absinthe in April, the move came with a bonus for lovers of the humble jelly doughnut. Turns out Villavelazquez is also in charge of the breakfast pastries at Arlequin Café (384 Hayes at Gough), Absinthe's casual spinoff next door. As a result, Arlequin's breakfast pastries are now some of the best in the city. No, Villavelazquez hasn't gone all deconstructed on the blueberry muffin -- the morning goods at Arlequin are accessible even before the coffee's kicked in. They're simple, buttery, and well made, with straightforward flavors you don't have to struggle to understand. Huckleberry scones ($2.75) have a nicely shaggy crumb and a plenty of musky berry flavor. Rhubarb-ginger scones ($2.75) are subtly electric with spice. But it's the filled beignets ($2 each) that are enough to make us take a long morning detour on Muni just to gorge on. The raspberry jam filling is tangy and a tad bracing, while pillowy, vanilla-scented custard is capable of soothing even the ride downtown in a packed and lurching J car.

  • Pin It

Tags: ,


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"