Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 5:51 PM

doggybag.jpg
Our favorite morsels from the food blogs and beyond.

Local hero: Last week, Bill Fujimoto stepped down as manager of Monterey Market, the watershed Berkeley produce biz that supplied deliciousness to Chez Panisse, Quince, and Zuni Café, among others. His departure came after a family disagreement about the direction of the nearly 50-year-old institution. Ex-Chron staffer Carol Ness penned a passionate farewell, viewable at the Ethicurean. A taste: For decades, Bill has cheerfully supported local farmers, even those with just a few crates of ripe stone fruit in the back of a station wagon, and helped dozens more to grow their business. People, people: a moment of silence please?

The other white meat: You didn't really think climate change would mean we'll still all get to go on eating half-pound Wagyu burgers, did you? How about cultivating a taste for jellyfish? Warmer ocean waters mean the things are growing faster than beakless chickens at a Tyson industrial facility. Grist points out the indigestible truth: A jellyfish burger and fries may not seem so appetizing to your average American seafood lover, but the notion isn't too far off. Um, can we get bacon on that?

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

Magnolia Crawfish Boil to Bring a Steamy Taste of Summer to the Haight

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 4:24 PM

Pick something hoppy to go with that crawfish. - SFTRISTAR/FLICKR
  • SFTriStar/Flickr
  • Pick something hoppy to go with that crawfish.
If you missed the two previous Louisiana Crawfish Boils at Magnolia Pub & Brewery (398 Haight at Masonic), it's not too late to go all backwoods Cajun. The third and final boil happens next Tuesday, June 16, just in time for the summer San Francisco is destined to miss. Magnolia owner Dave McLean said he's flying the crawfish in from Louisiana the day of the event (we know, locavores, it ain't pretty) to sell by the pound ($9 per) from 5 p.m. on. The restaurant will also cook up a variety of traditional sides including corn on the cob, potatoes, andouille sausage, and cornbread ($4-$6 each), not to mention pouring plenty of Magnolia's signature beers (conveniently enough, priced at $3 for a 20-ounce pint on Tuesdays). To go with the crawfish, McLean recommends a hoppy brew like Proving Ground IPA. As for the Louisiana summer weather, well, you'll have to use your imagination.

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

Local Flavor: Humble Morning Pastries with an Upscale Chef's Touch

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 3:53 PM

Pastries from Arlequin Cafe: Huckleberry scone (left), rhubarb-ginger scone (center), and filled beignets - JANINE KAHN
  • Janine Kahn
  • Pastries from Arlequin Cafe: Huckleberry scone (left), rhubarb-ginger scone (center), and filled beignets
When a chef jumps from one upscale eatery to another, it's usually good news for, well, upscale eaters. But when high-style pastry chef Luis Villavelazquez left Orson for Absinthe in April, the move came with a bonus for lovers of the humble jelly doughnut. Turns out Villavelazquez is also in charge of the breakfast pastries at Arlequin Café (384 Hayes at Gough), Absinthe's casual spinoff next door. As a result, Arlequin's breakfast pastries are now some of the best in the city. No, Villavelazquez hasn't gone all deconstructed on the blueberry muffin -- the morning goods at Arlequin are accessible even before the coffee's kicked in. They're simple, buttery, and well made, with straightforward flavors you don't have to struggle to understand. Huckleberry scones ($2.75) have a nicely shaggy crumb and a plenty of musky berry flavor. Rhubarb-ginger scones ($2.75) are subtly electric with spice. But it's the filled beignets ($2 each) that are enough to make us take a long morning detour on Muni just to gorge on. The raspberry jam filling is tangy and a tad bracing, while pillowy, vanilla-scented custard is capable of soothing even the ride downtown in a packed and lurching J car.

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

TiVo Alert: SFoodie on Tonight's Eyewitness News

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 3:42 PM

Sugerman and Palmer
  • Sugerman and Palmer
CBS 5 Eyewitness News reporter Mike Sugerman just interviewed yours truly for a report on the explosion of pavement cuisine in San Francisco. While it's been relatively quiet this week on the streets, Sugerman hit such reliable spots as Kitchenette and El Tonayense for his story, which airs tonight at 6 p.m. on CBS 5.

  • Pin It

Lard Cookies Move Out of the Panaderia and into Humphry Slocombe

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 1:57 PM

REVREV/FLICKR
  • revrev/Flickr
Cover your ears, pork haters. Lard's an essential ingredient at Mexican panaderias like La Victoria on 24th St. in the Mission -- it makes for incredibly short, crumbly pastries. As of today, it's come full circle, without ever leaving the neighborhood. Post-mod ice cream shop Humphry Slocombe announced via tweet that it'd baked off a big old batch of shortbread cookies enriched with lard from the salumeria Boccalone. Humphry owner Jake Godby told SFoodie the cookies contain a bit of cornmeal and rosemary, and cost $3.50 for four specimens. Score the crumbly, pork-scented goodness both at Humphry Slocombe (2790 Harrison at 24th St.) and Boccalone (Ferry Building Marketplace #21).

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

TwitterFlash: Kitchenette Unveils Spanish Colony Menu for Mission Street Food

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 1:20 PM

EHAVIR/FLICKR
  • ehavir/Flickr
Learning about colonialism wasn't this fun in high school. Kitchenette just Twitter-announced the nine-item menu for its first-time star turn this Thursday, June 11, at Mission Street Food. Last month, Kitchenette (and LRE catering) owner Douglas Monsalud told SFoodie it'd be a "colony concept": Dishes Spanish in origin, as tweaked by its former colonies. Here's a three-course slice of world history, covering Mexico, the Philippines, and Argentina, in that order: house-cured beef tongue "bacon" with savory corn humitas and salsa verde ($10); adobo of Liberty Farm duck gizzards with spring garlic and pork belly ($9); "knuckle sandwich": Marin Sun Farms pork knuckle braised in torrontes with roasted apricot chimichurri ($10). Collectively, it's European domination's finest hour.

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

Early Bird Special: RN74

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 10:57 AM

PAUL TRAPANI
  • Paul Trapani
You gotta love Michael Mina: Nobody in this town does high concept with such downright drama. How about a mashup of old French trains, New American cooking, and global wines? SF Weekly food critic Meredith Brody rides the vin express at RN74 (301 Mission at Beale) this week, holding on through a rickety series of dishes from French Laundry alum Jason Berthold that, thankfully perhaps, had absolutely zilch do with the French rail service. Throw in an unhelpful sommelier, and it turns out they had almost nothing to do with wine, either. Track the full review later today at www.sfweekly.com. Until then, ponder this after-the-jump snippet.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

Dispel Summer Fog with a Caipirinha, Rio's Favorite Beach Cooler

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 10:00 AM

Sweet, potent, and limey - KIRAYUZU/FLICKR
  • Kirayuzu/Flickr
  • Sweet, potent, and limey
The solstice approaches, and at Bay Area beaches and swimming holes that don't happen to be in foggy San Francisco, the locals are slathering on the SPF 40, firing up the barbecue, and dreaming of Rio.

Rio, that summertime symbol of seductive oceanfront, languid music, tropical delicacies ... and caipirinhas. If you don't have the dough or the stamina to fly halfway around the world for the real thing, you'll just have to settle for a locally crafted facsimile. Although this sweet, potent, lime-scented concoction seems simple enough to prepare, there are only a few joints hereabouts that mix up a caipirinha evocative of a lazy afternoon in Ipanema. (Lots of places don't muddle the limes violently enough, or don't add enough sugar and ice, or add too much hooch, a grave error.) A fine place to sip this samba-riffic cocktail is Pesce (2227 Polk at Green), which is as famous for its carefully crafted libations as its menu of Italian seafood. A couple of chopped up limes are mashed together with just the right amount of sugar and ice plus a slug of top-shelf Agua Luca cachaça, a sugarcane spirit that is to rum as tequila is to tap water. The crowning touch is a dollop of Veev açai liqueur, which adds a subtle yet bracing hint of lush rain forest berry-osity and is rich in antioxidants to boot (if you're into that sort of thing). After downing one or two of these Brazilian bombshells you'll be flying down to Rio without leaving Polk Street.

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

Crowd Complaint Likely Behind Friday's Police Action Against Street-Food Vendor

Posted By on Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 9:35 AM

The Sexy Soup Lady approached by a police officer on Linda Street last Friday - SPENCER BROWN
  • Spencer Brown
  • The Sexy Soup Lady approached by a police officer on Linda Street last Friday
Unlicensed street-food vendor Kristin, aka Sexy Soup Lady, told SFoodie she's "90 percent sure" that Friday's bust by police was a result of complaints by Linda Street residents. The dead-end street in the Mission has been a popular evening venue for vendors hawking everything from soup and Thai curry to cookies and crème brulée.

Kristin (last name withheld at her request) said that an hour or so after setting up her cart, two police officers approached. One officer asked if she knew she needed a permit to operate. When she said she didn't, Kristin recalled the officer replying, "Consider you know now, and this is your warning. Next time you'll be cited."

She described a bit of confusion about what the warning meant. No ticket was issued, and asked if she had to pack up and go, the officer replied that he wouldn't tell Kristin what to do, but suggested she leave within 30 minutes. She quickly dispensed the last of her soup and left.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"