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Monday, June 8, 2009

The Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 5:52 PM

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Our favorite morsels from the food blogs and beyond.

Down and out in Rockridge: Living out his Heat dreams, Sac Bee editorial writer Stuart Leavenworth trades in an English degree for a French apron -- he's in the midst of a six-month apprenticeship at Oakland's Oliveto. His most trenchant takeaway so far? Restaurant food is made by humans: There is no "magic" to preparing superlative food. The artistry that arrives on your plate at the best restaurants is not prepared by Houdini. As a 15-year veteran of restaurants, we can roger that. Plus kitchen work makes your hands really, really smelly. Don't give up that corner office at the Bee, Stu.

Glutton for punishment: Why are reality food shows so hella bad, and why do we love them? Cooking with the Single Guy ponders that very question, vowing to blog and twitter his way through every yawn-inspiring minute of The Next Food Network Star, which starts tonight. QUICK! Who won last year? Exactly. And for the next 10 weeks, we get to see people scramble, judges choke on poorly made food, and if it's anything like last season -- a lot of tears! (I saw a preview of tonight's episode and one girl was already crying.) Hate to harsh, dude, but maybe immersing yourself in food TV is why you're still single?

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Snacktion: Zesty Bhel from Bombay Spice House in Berkeley

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 4:20 PM

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Name: Bhel
Brand: Zesty Sweets and Snacks
Origin: Milpitas
Found at: Bombay Spice House (1036 University at San Pablo, Berkeley)
Cost: $3.29
Ingredients: Murmura, sev, papdi, spices, salt, oil
Calories per serving: Not listed.
The word: Ubiquitous in India but still a novelty here, bhel is puffed, spice rice.
Tasting notes: Apart from the texture, it's about as far from Rice Krispies as you can get, especially the suggestion of lingering heat. The flavor alone packs a ton of snap, crackle, and pop.
Buy it again? Yes, and we also want to try Zesty's other mixes, especially the spicy chana.
Extra credit: If you've never been, Bombay Spice House is an intriguing shop carrying a lot more than just spices. Seek out a huge array of Snacktion items as well as fragrant beauty products.

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Could Authorities Bust the Mission's Street-Food Party? Part II: The Police

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 3:30 PM

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Doug Zimmerman
Magic Curry Kart is a fixture of the new vendor scene.

The Mission's underground street-food scene is hot. Last month the San Francisco Chronicle mentioned the phenomenon, and even the LA Times' travel blog took a look. Street food has captured the imagination of city residents eager for a taste of the latest food trend with a whiff of the subversive. But while the street-food party is gaining momentum, fueled by what seem like weekly Twitter alerts about new vendors, there's a potential buzz-kill lurking: the law.

What's the likelihood that city authorities will stage a crackdown on scofflaw entrepreneurs, especially in the face of mainstream buzz? Conversations with officials from both the police and Health Department suggest that while the city doesn't currently seem to have much appetite for busts of vendors like Curtis the Crème Brulee Guy, Cookie Wag, or Amuse Bouche, the possibilities for future action - like the weekend police action that caused the Sexy Soup Lady to pack it up and move on -- are real.

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Street-food vendor Sexy Soup Lady was reportedly shut down by police on Linda Street Friday night.

Richard Lee, the city's director of Health Regulatory Programs, told SFoodie that action against unlicensed vendors will almost always come from the police. "Anytime we see or know about a violation, we report it to the police," said Lee. The Health Department has some two dozen inspectors crisscrossing the city to perform inspections of restaurants and other permitted facilities. When they notice a street vendor they suspect of being unlicensed, procedure calls for them to alert the cops. But Lee also told SFoodie that his department has been following suspected unlicensed vendors' on Twitter to determine when and where they'd be setting up for business.

Getting the proper permits for pushcart food sales can be prohibitively pricey for street vendors. The Department of Public Health requires applicants to submit for a permit to operate, a sanitation certificate, and a fire marshall application. The fee for a pushcart on private property costs $737, on top of an environmental health application fee of $298. That's easily beyond the reach of both the latest wave of sellers and of those with a history of selling tamales and other snacks to the day laborers who cluster on César Chavez and nearby streets.

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Broke-Ass Foodie: Baked Chicken Buns at Clement Restaurant

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 2:20 PM

Primal and stretchy, with a filling tinted delicious
  • Primal and stretchy, with a filling tinted delicious
The counter lady can get surly if you violate some unspoken protocol, and the shumai (left too long in the display case) can end up hard as the burgers at a multiplex. But the baked chicken buns ($1) at this well-trafficked Inner Richmond dim sum joint make you forgive all that and more. The paisley-shaped beauties are lacquered to a high gloss with egg. Break one open and the sweet aroma of yeast dough engages some primal yearning for mom and carbs. Tender and stretchy, it reveals a hefty filling of sliced, poached chicken and yellow onion tinted delicious with soy sauce. It's the kind of thing you find yourself devouring, head bent low over the table without looking up, till it's gone. You don't even mind getting in line again for a second, even figuring that the counter lady isn't going to like seeing you. She'll just have to deal.

Clement Restaurant 621 Clement (at Eighth Ave.), 752-9520.

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Farmers' Market or Organic Delivery Service? Weighing the Eco Options

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 1:22 PM

Heart of the City market: Low carbon footprint? - HEATHER/FLICKR
  • heather/Flickr
  • Heart of the City market: Low carbon footprint?
Agoraphobic? Is it raining out? Or maybe you're just too lazy to drag your ass to the farmers' market. Spud, the largest organic food delivery service in North America, can hook you up. But is that entirely a good thing?

It is if convenience is your chief value. Spud, which began its grocery delivery business in Vancouver more than a dozen years ago, launched locally in January 2008, before the proliferation of city farmers' markets (we count eight, with at least one more planned for July). Spud's highly customizable program allows you to put together an a la carte box of organic produce, delivered right to your door. You can also get staples like butter, milk, and bread, and even a few prepared foods (there's a 5 percent discount on standing orders).

Prices are pretty good when you consider that you have to do nothing more than point and click to accomplish your week's grocery shopping. A quart of Clover organic milk is $3.59 and you can get a head of organic butter lettuce for $2.55. The company is carbon neutral, meaning, in this case, it purchases carbon credits from My Climate to offset emissions it can't avoid in running this huge, er, industrial operation. My Climate then puts this money to use for projects that reduce the use of fossil fuels and promote the use of renewable energy sources, many in developing countries.

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'Edible Pursuit' Chews Us Up

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 1:10 PM

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Best Team Uniform winners Wig in a Box
We should have known we didn't stand a chance winning Edible San Francisco's Edible Pursuit last night after that embarrassing loss at Foodie Fight with our family last Thanksgiving. Still, we couldn't resist an invitation to play and formed a team called the Sourdough Sweetbreads.

There were four rounds during last night's game, held at the Acme Chophouse: Bay Area Food Scene, Kitchen Know-How, Sips and Sweets, and Food Politics. Each round consisted of 10 questions plus two tie-breakers. Host Marcia Gagliardi (aka the Tablehopper) read each question twice and then gave us two minutes to deliberate.

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Shoreline Food Fest an Odd Assemblage of TV Stars, Local Chefs, and Aging Rockers

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 12:13 PM

The Super Bowl of food? Let's hope the half-time show is better
  • The Super Bowl of food? Let's hope the half-time show is better
An unusual group of local chefs, TV food celebrities, and Boomer bands are coming together at Shoreline this Saturday for the Great American Food and Music Fest. "There'll be more deliciousness per square inch than you will find anywhere on this Earth," New York author and food blogger Ed Levine -- a festival organizer -- told SFoodie. Levine said he'd heard the event called "the Super Bowl of food," a description that seemed to express the event's scale as well as the testosterone-tinged bravado of its hype.

The main attraction? Restaurateur and Food Network star Bobby Flay, slated to demo a burger, onion rings, and milk shake. The event promises an odd balance of Food Network hosts strong on personality juxtaposed with purely local talent bringing serious culinary chops. So at the Serious Eats stage (named for Levine's blog), cotton-candy-haired, man-jewelry-sportin' TV host Guy Fieri is scheduled to demonstrate "Hong Kong Noodles," followed by A16's Nate Appleman in a meatball demo.

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Ex-Rohan Space Promises Another Taste of Asian Fusion

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 10:09 AM

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As we reported last week, window signs in shuttered Rohan Lounge (3809 Geary at Second Ave.) announced the coming of yet another Asian-fusion place, Maru. We'll pass along details when we get 'em. Another pic after the jump.

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Reported Bust of Mission Street-Food Vendor

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 9:51 AM

Sexy Soup Lady: Looking for new venues
  • Sexy Soup Lady: Looking for new venues
Street-food vendor Sexy Soup Lady was reportedly shut down by police on Linda Street Friday night. Kristin - like many vendors in the neighborhood's burgeoning street-food scene, she's unlicensed, and prefers not to have her last name published - commented via tweet early Saturday morning:

Cops were kinda cool (warning, no fine)...seemed like they were called by Linda St. residents. Have to find a new spot... StealthSoupCart.;)

In a subesquent tweet, Sexy Soup Lady's repeated her interest in finding new venues for doing business:

Free The Soup! will find new locations... stay tuned!

SFoodie left a phone message for Kristin, but hadn't heard back as of this posting

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Cheap Wines That Don't Suck: 2006 Falesco Vitiano Rosso

Posted By on Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 9:20 AM

Not flabby
  • Not flabby
Umbria grows a lot of warm-climate grapes, so you might expect some flabby, low-acid wines from Italy's only landlocked region. But the influence of the Apennine Mountains ensures cool nighttime temps, which means more complex tannins (i.e., structure). Falesco Vitiano Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese (the main Chianti grape), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and it drinks like a $25 bottle -- but it's only $9.99 at The Wine Club in SOMA (953 Harrison at Fifth St.) -- and it's one of the few cheap wines from any country that Robert Parker himself deigned to review. In case you're wondering, he gave it an 88. We like it too, for its spicy nose, its pretty red-fruit flavors, and its easy-on-the-oak palatability.

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