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Tuesday, June 2, 2009

The Doggie Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 5:53 PM

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Our favorite morsels from the food blogs and beyond.

Someone been takin' bitter pills: Guest-whining at Eater SF, Citysearch editor Patrick Heig gets his 2(x)ists in a twist over what he suggests is the city's bogus street-food fad. In Heig's cosmology there's authentic street food (like Manhattan's falafel carts) and pathetic, lemonade-stand street food. If we're so desperate for street food that we're willing to bestow that title on a guy selling cookies in Dolores Park, c'mon, let's not embarrass ourselves here. It's a fucking snickerdoodle. Calm down. Whatever, dude -- give it time.

Grease junky: Mid-20th century America may have been the Age of Parkay, but there's been an epochal shift: Welcome to the Age of Lard. Food writer Regina Schrambling tells the nation what S.F. already knows: Lard's negative connotations of flowing flesh and vats of grease and epithets like lardass and tub of lard have been absurd hurdles. But no longer. Embrace the grease at Salon.

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The Rob Roy: A Wee Dram, Hold the Cherry

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 5:45 PM

Barrel-aged Balvenie: Steel yourself to do the unspeakable - DSEANG VIA FLICKR
  • dseang via Flickr
  • Barrel-aged Balvenie: Steel yourself to do the unspeakable
The Broken Record saloon (1166 Geneva at Edinburgh) not only serves exceptional pub grub, their whisky selection is breathtaking: well over a hundred different ryes, bourbons, and scotches, most of it from the top of the shelf and served by a squad of barkeeps who know their stuff (read our review here). Following the local trend, the majority are single malt scotches, and while we admire and respect the smoky intensity of all that carefully crafted peat juice, bourbon's our choice when it comes to a tumbler of unadulterated hooch. And when we run out of Booker's and the only thing left in the larder is a bottle of barrel-aged Balvenie, we prefer to do the unspeakable and doctor it up into a Rob Roy.

Shake up one part sweet vermouth (preferably Carpano) to three parts scotch with a dash of Angostura bitters and plenty of ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass and imbibe. The vermouth tempers the smokiness of the scotch without submerging it altogether, and the bitters add a pleasant hint of invigorating snark. Despite the gentling sweetness of the Carpano, the Rob Roy is a strong, robust cocktail worthy of its swashbuckling namesake, so don't screw it up with a maraschino cherry.

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What, Already? It's Dine About Town Time Again

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 4:13 PM

Spruce: Get a taste of swanky on the cheap - TOR TOR TOR VIA FLICKR
  • tor tor tor via Flickr
  • Spruce: Get a taste of swanky on the cheap
It feels like the last Dine About Town just ended (it happened back in January), but it's upon us again. Here's a refresher: The San Francisco Convention and Visitors' Bureau organizes this biannual, citywide restaurant promotion now in its eighth year. It kicked off last night, and runs through Monday, June 15. More than 125 local spots are taking part this time, offering special showcase prix-fixe menus (lunches for $21.95 and dinners for $34.95, not counting tax and tip). The upside: It can be a great way to check out the city's pricier eateries without having to part with a benjamin or two. The downside: Since menu items tend to come from the lower end of the price scale, you can feel like you're sitting at the kids' table. Still, it may give you an idea of the places you'd consider revisiting at regular menu prices.

Our tips for the choicest spots to check out? The New American splendors of Spruce (3640 Sacramento at Spruce), which is making its Dine About Town debut; Jamie Lauren's French-Cali cuisine at Absinthe Brasserie and Bar (398 Hayes at Gough); neo-fish-house classics at Anchor & Hope (83 Minna at Second St.); and modern Indian at Dosa on Fillmore (1700 Fillmore at Post). Check out the full list of participating restaurants and make reservations at Open Table. Skim Absinthe's sample lunch menu after the jump.

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Hot Meal: Oralia's Cafe in Dogpatch

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 3:07 PM

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Is Dogpatch redefining the sandwich? Sammie aficionados have been buzzing over the weekday offerings at Kitchenette practically since the day it opened. Now, a shop in the same block is redefining the sandwich along sturdier, more traditional lines. Last last month, Gilbert Cab opened Oralia's Café (2347 Third St. at 20th St.), named for his mother-in-law, Oralia Posada, a co-owner. Instead of stocking the sandwich line with cold cuts, Cab roasts meats every morning, keeps them warm, and slices them thickly - to order - to pile into French rolls from Bakers of Paris. If anyone knows the 'hood, it's Cab: In 2007, he opened Mexican-Salvadoran place The New Spot just around the corner, at 632 20th St. Soft, warm slabs of turkey ($7.49) can make you fall in like with a lunchtime cliché (sans roll, it comes as a plate with a couple of sides for $8.49). Expect daily specials with and without bread, like a stuffed pork chop or roast lamb sandwich. You won't find consciously cheffy cooking like you will at Kitchenette. Just blue-collar classics interpreted with the respect they deserve.

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Roll Play: Kyoto Sushi's Sunset

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 2:45 PM

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Kyoto Sushi (1233 Van Ness at Sutter) is easy to miss, located as it is amidst the bustle of a busy traffic corridor. But a creative sushi menu is worth slowing down for. Take the Sunset ($11.95), a California roll topped with partially baked salmon, parmesan cheese, and garlic sauce. The combination of flavors tastes like pizza. Traditional it ain't, and that's why we love it. 

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Twitter Alert: Little Skillet to Start Offering Breakfast Tomorrow

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 1:51 PM

JANINE KAHN
  • Janine Kahn
Fortify yourself with a taste of the South before facing that drab gray office cube: The folks at Little Skillet (330 Ritch at Townsend) just twitter-announced they'll start offering breakfast starting tomorrow at 9 a.m. Here's the menu:

-Breakfast po'boy with scrambled eggs, cheese, scallions, bacon, and tomato ($7)

-Butterscotch biscuit bites with Maldon sea salt and cinnamon ($4 for 10 pieces)

-Stone-ground grits ($3); with cheese ($3.50) or sausage ($4)

Maybe y'all should stick to a salad and iced tea for din-din tonight -- just so you wake up with plenty of room to pack it all into.

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'Kitchen Table Talks' Break Down Food Politics for Activists, Wonks, and Just Plain Eaters

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 1:00 PM

Jessica Prentice: The original locavore? - NORTHFIELD.ORG VIA FLICKR
  • Northfield.org via Flickr
  • Jessica Prentice: The original locavore?
Yammering about food is a local pastime, whether it's talk about the latest street-food find, the endless debate about organic versus local, or what "green" really means (do Veev cocktails count?). Now there's an organized space for such musings: Kitchen Table Talks, a new series of conversations about the American food system. Organizers are the food politics blog Civil Eats and 18 Reasons, the artsy, food-steeped nonprofit arm of Bi-Rite. They invite a different speaker each session, with topics ranging from the wonky to the practical. Who can attend? Policy geeks, activists, and mere eaters.

Last month's first installment featured Elanor Starmer, research analyst for the food program at Food and Water Watch, who sought to demystify the USDA -- explaining what they actually do -- and dissect the Obama admin's policy approach. The second session is scheduled for Tuesday, June 23. Called What to Eat: A Revolutionary Act, the speaker is Jessica Prentice, a partner in the subscription prepared-foods biz Three Stone Hearth and the woman who reportedly coined locavore, which the New Oxford American Dictionary deemed word of the year for 2007. There'll also be a teaser for Edible City, a feature-length documentary about the local food movement.

What to Eat: A Revolutionary Act At Linden Tree, in the offices of Sagan-Piechota Architecture, 315 Linden (at Gough), 6:30-8:30 p.m. $10 suggested donation. Space is limited -- RSVP to ktt@civileats.com or call 925-785-0713.

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The Five Bacon Sweets That Rock Our World

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 11:30 AM

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Lollyphile's maple-bacon suckers.
You may be tiring of all the hype and fuss surrounding bacon, but admit it: You're still not tired of bacon. Or sweets. So what should you consume if you need a fix of both at the same time? Enjoy this countdown of our top five faves.

5. Bacon marshmallows from Perbacco (230 California at Front)
We tasted these playful confections from Perbacco chef Staffan Terje at a Meatpaper party. They were so good, we slipped one in our bag for later. Strictly for research purposes.

4. Peanut butter-chocolate-bacon cupcakes from 4505 Meats
Another treat you'll probably find only at special events. Ryan Farr often brings these to his butchery demonstrations and parties, just in case guests haven't had their fill of his "swine so fine" savory product line.

3. Maple-bacon latte at Pirate Cat Radio (2781 21st St. at Florida)
The buzz about the infamous piggy coffee at Pirate Cat reached none other than Anthony Bourdain, who stopped by for a swig on a recent swing through town. We'll find out his verdict on an upcoming episode; in the meantime, it's good enough for us.

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Early Bird Special: The Broken Record

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 9:47 AM

Hoodies and ball caps allowed - JEN SISKA
  • Jen Siska
  • Hoodies and ball caps allowed
If you've ever wondered what the hell a gastropub is, get the ultimate schooling by reading SF Weekly food critic Matthew Stafford's review of the Broken Record (1166 Geneva at Edinburgh). Think bar food done by serious chefs who actually love the genre, without a whisker of the attitude that'd make you think twice about dressing in your favorite broken-in black skinnylegs and scuffed-up Vans. Stafford plows through house-smoked pigmeat sammies, alligator sausage, and what just might be the city's best mac 'n' cheese, in a room steeped in whiskies, ryes, and top-shelf bourbons. Taste every morsel of whoopee pie and toffee crack at www.sfweekly.com. For instant gratification, wet your whistle on the exquisitely seasoned preview after the jump.

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Eight Summer Food Festivals Worth the Schlep

Posted By on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 7:59 AM

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Did you miss San Francisco's Oyster Fest last month? Fear not. There are plenty of larger food festivals to satiate you -- if you're willing to travel. We've put together a roundup of some of the best.


Maine Lobster Festival (July 29-August 2)
Made famous by David Foster Wallace's essay Consider the Lobster, this festival in Rockland features over 20,000 pounds of crustaceans for the taking, along with steamed and fried clams, fried Maine shrimp, shrimp cocktail, and steamed mussels. The massive lobster cooker allows you to watch the clawed critters get cooked to death in real time. Admission: $8.

Adult baby food eating contest.
  • Adult baby food eating contest.
Gilroy Garlic Festival (July 24-26)
This popular festival (over 107,000 attended last year) located south of San Jose is a vampire's worst nightmare. Garlic bread, garlic fries, garlic almonds, garlic salmon, even garlic ice cream --name the garlic pairing, the Gilroy Garlic Festival serves it up. Make sure to stick around for the garlic cook-off. Winning recipes have included a walnut-garlic tart with garlic-infused ice cream, and garlic seafood soup. Admission is $12.

National Capital BBQ Battle (June 27-28)
The yearly barbecue battle in Washington, D.C., brings together 'cue lovers from across the country to compete for $40,000 in cash and prizes. If you've ever harbored dreams of being crowned National Pork Champion, this is your Woodstock. Admission? $10.

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