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Thursday, May 28, 2009

The Doggie Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 6:19 PM

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Our favorite morsels from the food blogs and beyond.

Arroz-con-pollo activist: Supreme Court nom Sonia Sotomayor is suspect in the eyes of some conservatives for her taste in food, which skews toward pork fat and sofrito. The Hill quotes Sotomayor from a 2001 speech: "'For me, a very special part of my being Latina is the mucho platos de arroz, gandoles y pernir -- rice, beans and pork -- that I have eaten at countless family holidays and special events.' This has prompted some Republicans to muse privately about whether Sotomayor is suggesting that distinctive Puerto Rican cuisine such as patitas de cerdo con garbanzo -- pigs' feet with chickpeas -- would somehow, in some small way influence her verdicts from the bench." Oh that they would!

Schlep report: The good news: Food Gal finds a four-star taco truck dishing out stuff like ahi and halibut tacos. The bad news: It's in San Jose. Bummer.

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Local Flavor: A Carb-and-Caffeine-Fueled Walk Across San Francisco

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 5:08 PM

Victoria Pastry: Perfect for a brioche pit stop - SNEEDY VIA FLICKR
  • sneedy via Flickr
  • Victoria Pastry: Perfect for a brioche pit stop
One of the best ways to appreciate San Francisco is to cross it on foot, coast to coast, an ideal weekend activity. Of course an undertaking like this demands plenty of tasty vitamins and minerals, which are available in abundance no matter what trail you happen to take.

Last week we took the northern route from the Embarcadero to the Cliff House via Pacific Heights and the Richmond, and decided to kick things off with wonderfully chewy, savory asiago rolls from the Acme bakery in the Ferry Building.

By the time we got to North Beach it was time for a light-as-air brioche from Victoria Pastry (you can't have too many carbs on an outing like this), and after crossing Russian Hill at its most vertiginous we really needed a cup of joe from Peet's at Larkin and Vallejo.

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Chocolate-Maker Michael Recchiuti's Taste Project Flirts With Savory and Sweet Flavors

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 4:30 PM

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Michael Recchiuti dreams up the Taste Project
"This has everything to do with stuff I'd like to do, but could never do on an industrial level," said chocolatier Michael Recchiuti last night as panini fungi of shiitake chocolate-malt ice cream on grilled brioche were served. Recchiuti said he'd stayed up well into the morning hours to prepare this imaginative ice cream sandwich. The unlikely flavors tasted like they'd been buddies for years.

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Shiitake chocolate malt ice cream on brioche
Recchiuti was hosting a media preview of his Taste Project, which involves opening his kitchen and tasting room to the public for a series of events in partnership with other local artisans of savory food and drink, from beer and spirits to cheese and mushrooms. Last night's event was a five-part tasting that hinted at the wonderful culinary surprises to come.

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Mission Teahouse Has a Whiff of Authentic Asian Find About It

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 4:17 PM

Forget the flute music
  • Forget the flute music
San Francisco has its share of great teahouses, but the newly opened Om Shan Tea (233 14th St. at Natoma) is in a class all its own. It feels like an actual funky little neighborhood teahouse you'd stumble into while traveling in Asia, rather than an idealized simulacrum of someone's notion of what tea should be, which is inevitably high end, featuring lots of Asian-y modern décor and also endless flute music. Let's put it this way: Om Shan Tea is to most other local teahouses as Osento was to Kabuki. It's the physical manifestation of a kind of laid-back, improvisational San Francisco many thought had ceased to exist.

Whether it's a sign of this city's future or its past, five dollars gets you a small teapot of bitchin' pu-erh, and endless hot water refills from an electric teakettle bubbling away next to your table. Bring someone you actually want to spend time with, and settle in for an afternoon of wandering, digressive, caffeinated conversation.

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Announcement of Costco Foie Gras Ban Mired in Confusion

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 3:12 PM

Ever seen this at Costco? - FRANCISCOMAG VIA FLICKR
  • franciscomag via Flickr
  • Ever seen this at Costco?
Is an animal rights group pulling a hoax centered around a high-profile foie gras ban? Earlier today, Eater SF picked up a press release stating that warehouse retailer Costco had pledged to ban sales of foie gras, the controversial luxury liver produced by gorging certain poultry fowl. Sounds like Costco took a bold step, one that puts it in line with a California state ban that takes effect in 2012. Problem is, a Costco vice president told SFoodie he knew nothing about the ban. What's more, he's pretty sure the Washington-based retailer doesn't even sell the gourmet food item in the first place.

"I'm not aware of any ban," Jeff Elliott said, after asking SFoodie to explain what foie gras is. "I'm not even aware that we sell that." In a subsequent email, Elliott wrote: "We have no comment on the matter."

Brian Pease, who described himself as a director of San Diego-based Animal Protection & Rescue League, which produced the press release (which doesn't include a quote from any Costco representative), claimed that everything in the press release was true, but described the situation with Costco as "complicated." Pease conceded that the APRL may have been premature in circulating the press release. He said that the organization's contact was one Mike Dorpat, whom Pease described as Costco's wine and foods buyer. Pease acknowledged a certain amount of miscommunication in APRL, which is staffed primarily with volunteers.

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Incanto's Budget Prix Fixe to Mine the Cooking of Italy's Poor, Plus a Cosentino Roundup

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 1:50 PM

Coming to a corner near you (maybe): Boccalone's panino express - NIALLKENNEDY VIA FLICKR
  • Niallkennedy via Flickr
  • Coming to a corner near you (maybe): Boccalone's panino express
Incanto chef Chris Cosentino told SFoodie the restaurant's summer prix-fixe menu series probing the food of Italy's poor was a way to focus on some of the peninsula's simplest and most traditional dishes. "Some of the best food came out of poverty," Cosentino said. Dubbed Cucina Povera, the three-course, $30 offering ($39 with optional two-course wine flight) is available Sunday and Monday nights, starting this week, May 31-June 1. Inspired by a different region of Italy each week, the budget menu will be available alongside the regular offerings at Incanto (1550 Church at Duncan). "We're just trying to give people a different option," Cosentino explained. This week's menu has roots in Lazio, the region around Rome: Pecorino-and-black-pepper-coated spaghetti cacio e pepe, lamb stew with lemon and egg, and torta with cherry conserves. Cosentino said he hasn't decided yet where the inspiration for next week's menu will come.

In other Cosentino news, the chef told us our tidbit last week about lard soap from Boccalone (Incanto's spinoff salumeria) was as premature as two-day-old salami. "The soap needs to cure for the right amount of time before it's ready," the chef explained, suggesting it could be many weeks before the porcine soap is for sale. Oops -- our bad! Put it out of your mind, everybody.

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Retooled Lark Creek Inn to Open Next Week

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 12:23 PM

Lark Creek Inn: Reborn as a casual tavern with budget prices - DISNEYMIKE VIA FLICKR
  • disneymike via Flickr
  • Lark Creek Inn: Reborn as a casual tavern with budget prices
After a brief delay following a last-minute scramble for chef, the Larkspur restaurant formerly known as Lark Creek Inn has an official opening date: next Thursday, June 4. Lark Creek Group culinary director Adrian Hoffman told SFoodie that the Tavern at Lark Creek (234 Magnolia at William, Larkspur) would start off by offering dinner seven nights a week, with Sunday brunch starting up some time in the next several weeks.

According to Hoffman, new chef Randy Lewis has had extensive input on the opening menu, which skews casual. In a nod to the bleak economy, the priciest entrée is $14.95. Starters include unpretentious-sounding options like mac and cheese croquettes and spinach and artichoke dip with pita wedges. Sandwiches include a meatball and mozzarella sub, and a retooled Reuben with house-corned beef. Main courses center around relatively cheap proteins such as octopus, beef chuck pot roast, and rainbow trout.

Like Oakland's Sidebar, which opened in February with a lunch menu where only one main course tops $10, the Tavern at Lark Creek appears to represent a growing strategy for riding out the downturn: keeping prices low (while absorbing presumably shrunken profit margins) in the hope of driving volume.

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Michael Pollan's Book to be Required Reading at Washington State University After All

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 10:47 AM

Pollan's book: Un-banned
  • Pollan's book: Un-banned
Looks like freshman at Washington State University will have to crack Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma after all. Last week we reported on the controversy that had the local food politics community ready to mount the barricades: Citing cost of both the 4,000 books and an unspecified speaker's fee for Pollan, the northern uni scrapped plans to put the Berkeley author's anti-big-ag bestseller on the required reading list for freshmen. Progressives smelled a rat, suspecting the school's reluctance to offend big-money agribusiness interests, whose support of the institution is key.

But according to Grist this morning (citing the Chronicle of Higher Education), a savior has stepped in: Seattle food safety lawyer and WSU alum Bill Marler, who agreed to bankroll not only Pollan's fee but underwrite the cost of the books. Late yesterday, Marler twittered the news that The Omnivore's Dilemma and Pollan would be making an appearance at WSU. So far, it looks like a happy ending for everyone but Big Ag.

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Broke-Ass Foodie: Souley Vegan's Red Beans and Rice

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 9:00 AM

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We may have to wait for Tamearra Dyson's animal-free soul food joint Souley Vegan to reopen in a new location in Oakland (301 Broadway at Third St.), but fortunately we don't have to wait for her cooking. Dyson still offers ready-made meals at the Grand Lake Saturday farmers' market and, on this side of the bay, in the refrigerator at Rainbow Grocery (1745 Folsom at Division). Her hearty red beans and rice ($4.29) packs big bursts of garlic and spice, with cooked tomatoes that have a pleasant bite without crossing into squishy territory. Readers of the East Bay Express voted Souley Vegan the East Bay's best soul food last year, a real feat when you realize the competition had trotters to give them a leg up.

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Morning Buzz: A Foodie Day Planner

Posted By on Thu, May 28, 2009 at 6:47 AM

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Thursday, May 28, 2009

Let's do lunch:

Why get all greasy from a gooey hot slice when you can nibble on brilliance? SF Weekly restaurant critic Meredith Brody advises lunching on the vitello "tonino" followed by a clam pie at Pizzeria Delfina (3611 18th St. at Guerrero, 437-6800; and 2406 California at Fillmore, 440-1189).

Drink therapy:

Cop a summery taste of staycation with $7 margaritas and $15 beer buckets and tequila flights at Colibri Mexican Bistro (438 Geary at Mason, 440-2737), 3:30-5:30 p.m.

Wallow in culture and, while you're at it, save a few bucks: $4 drafts and $6 white or red house vino at Varnish Fine Art (77 Natoma at Second St., 222-6131), 5-7 p.m.

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