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Thursday, May 21, 2009

The Doggie Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 5:38 PM

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Our favorite morsels from the food blogs for Thursday, May 21, 2009

Washington State University crossed Michael Pollan's anti-big-ag screed The Omnivore's Dilemma off its freshman required reading list, and it's not entirely clear why. The uni says it's all about money (or lack thereof), while just about everyone else assumes agribusiness strong-arming. Grist digs up the controversy here.

FoodGal serves up big-pixel food porn from last weekend's Cooking for Solutions conf at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. It's an orgy of glistening tobikko and sticky-looking maki.

Don't misconstrue: we love restaurant tipstress the Tablehopper. But a line from her review of Amber India this week made us fidget in our chair: I don't understand why Indian places always have to be cheap and dingy and have buffets and leave you smelling like a tandoori oven when you depart. TH goes on to praise the crossover eateries DOSA and Roti (and counts Amber among them). Still, it made us flash rather uncomfortably on our Great Aunt Kay, who had some very old-fashioned ideas about people she called "minorities." UPDATE: After this post dropped, Marcia Gagliardi (aka Tablehopper) called to complain about what she called our characterization of her as a borderline racist. She said none of her thousands of readers had taken offense at the passage we quoted. We certainly didn't intend to suggest that Gagliardi is a racist, or uncomfortable visiting Indian restaurants. We regret any negative impressions our post might have given rise to. --J. Birdsall

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Liam Mayclem Trades his Mic for a Knife as Guest Chef of Saturday's SubCulture Dining Event

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 4:48 PM

Mayclem:  On the DL in the kitchen
  • Mayclem: On the DL in the kitchen
You've watched him flog restaurants on TV, now see what he can do with a whisk. CBS 5 Eye on the Bay host Liam Mayclem is billed as Saturday's "celebrity chef" (you were expecting Thomas Keller maybe?) for SubCulture Dining's "Kitchen Confidential" pirate dinner at an undisclosed SF location. Tickets for the four-course "bistro-style" Liampalooza are $75 ($80 for the vegetarian version -- go figure). Get 'em here.

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Twitter Report: Chez Spencer Taco Truck a Go in SOMA Tonight

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 4:18 PM

No, this isn't Chez Spencer's truck, but something like it will be slinging escargot tonight - JASON VIA FLICKR
  • Jason via Flickr
  • No, this isn't Chez Spencer's truck, but something like it will be slinging escargot tonight
Don't load up on chips this afternoon, oh eager Francophiles. After the no-show last week, looks like Chez Spencer's retooled taco truck will indeed be dispensing escargot 'n' stuff on Folsom tonight. Behold this tweet, sent in the wee hours of the morning (a big 'sup to Eater SF for catching):

Thursday, May 21 -Spencer on the go-French Take-away will be up and running on Folsom and 7th St at 6:00 pm.

Remember, you'll be able to take your goodies into Terroir wine bar for more dignified (and, if you choose, pinot-irrigated) noshing.

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Golden Star Tea: Just Like Champagne, But Without All the Remorse

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 3:34 PM

This just might save you from going home with your ex - VICTORCAB VIA FLICKR
  • Victorcab via Flickr
  • This just might save you from going home with your ex
We remember attending a party years ago at which a guest pulled us aside and muttered, "What do they have here for the alcoholics?" Inquiries were made. The answer was water. Not even the fizzy kind. And perhaps said guest would have been witnessed pouring half a bottle of wine into a Styrofoam cup later in the evening before woozily disembarking, regardless of beverage options, but still: What with guests who have complicated relationships to alcohol, and guests who are going through laborious and elaborate cleanses that you absolutely do not want to hear the details of, and guests who just aren't in the mood to get tipsy because their ex is there and they're worried that they'll accidentally wind up going home to engage in Guitar Hero followed by sloppy sex, it's good to be prepared.

Which is why we're pleased that San Francisco has delivered up at least one solution, in the form of Golden Star Tea. It looks like champagne. It tastes like champagne (the fermentation process involves champagne yeast.) It even costs as much as champagne, so your non-boozing guests won't feel all low-status. (Clarification: it's as expensive as the bad stuff. Compared to the good stuff it's a bargain.) Rigorous testing recently conducted under highly scientific conditions have shown it to be delicious with Indian food. And it's made by locals, so one can feel all smug and carbon-neutral for supporting the region's jasmine silver needle carbonated tea economy. I know. It's a particularly Bay Area kind of smug, and doesn't come easily at first. But it starts to feel natural after awhile.

Find Golden Star Tea at Whole Foods and other stores, and on restaurant bev menus.

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Avoid Smelling Like Bong Water: A Guide to SF BBQ Joints Open Memorial Day

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 2:59 PM

Baby Blues BBQ will be slinging ribs on Monday - LIGHTO VIA FLICKR
  • Lighto via Flickr
  • Baby Blues BBQ will be slinging ribs on Monday
It makes us cranky: dumping the remnants of rain from the backyard barbecue's inverted lid, then scrubbing the detritus of carbonized chicken skin from the grate. Finish the scouring, the lighting, and the stoking, and you have to face the smoke, all those acrid billows of vaporized pork fat. Sure, we crave barbecue on Memorial Day as much as the next guy, but prefer not to reek as if we'd taken a sponge bath with bong water. Help!

Thankfully, five of the city's 'cue joints plan to open on Monday, slinging rib tips, hot links, and chicken halves for the carbon-averse. It's a holiday -- relax a little. That rusted-out Weber will still be waiting for you on the Fourth of July.

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Former Alice Waters Assistant Turning His Hand to Bento Boxes with a Drop-Dead Sensibility

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 12:45 PM

Peko-Peko's kakuni, made with pork from Marin Sun Farms
  • Peko-Peko's kakuni, made with pork from Marin Sun Farms
Even in this town, many of us know Japanese food as monster maki, fast-food ramen, and greasy tonkatsu cutlets. Sylvan Brackett wants to change that. The former assistant to Alice Waters is making bento boxes combining authentic Japanese technique and Slow Food sourcing. Make that Sylvan Mishima Brackett. The 33-year-old wants you to know he has a Japanese mom, grew up in a Japanese-style house, and spent two years cooking in Japan.

Brackett calls his company Peko-Peko (rhymes with echo-echo). He takes orders by Wednesday for Friday bentos, which set you back $25 each (or rather, ouch!) -- pick them up Friday afternoon in Oakland's Rockridge neighborhood, or for $15 Brackett will deliver to SF, Berkeley, or Oakland (deliveries to Marin and the Peninsula require a four-box minimum).

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Let's Be Frank's Twitter Marketing: Buy the Dogs, Mention the Tweet, Score the Sauce

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 11:00 AM

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Let's Be Frank (3318 Steiner at Chestnut), part of a wave of new food establishments to utilize Twitter as a marketing tool, has announced a devilish deal on its feed. Customers who come in from Saturday, May 23, through Monday, May 25, and purchase three 12-ounce packs of brats or dogs will receive a free jar of LBF's Devil Sauce (a $9.50 value) if they mention they read the offer via tweet. LBF touts the sauce, which is laden with peppers, ginger, garlic and secret spices, as a good addition to eggs, dips, and marinades. Who knows: Since SFoodie wasn't blown away by the dog we tried on our last visit, a little dose of satan might be just the thing.

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CUESA Announces Vendor List for Thursday Street-Food Market at the Ferry Building

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 10:48 AM

Starting in July, the fanciest street food in town will happen right here - JC ANTHONY DEE 42 VIA FLICKR
  • JC Anthony Dee 42 via Flickr
  • Starting in July, the fanciest street food in town will happen right here
Come July 2, street food takes to the waterfront -- haute street food, that is. Riding the wave of mobile food fervor sweeping the city, the Ferry Plaza folks are launching a Thursday farmers' market devoted largely to street food carts, open from 10 a.m. to noon. Don't expect a $1.25 taco á la Oakland's International Boulevard. These carts will serve the most pristine food on the street, with an emphasis on local and sustainable, based on ingredients largely sourced from the market's farm stands.

Christine Farren, spokesperson for CUESA, which runs the market, confirmed the current vendor list with SFoodie.

Roli Roti will be debuting a roast beef sandwich, as yet unsampled, and Capn' Mike's SF Style Sandwiches (already at the Saturday market) will offer its ever-popular smoked fish on thin slices of Acme bread with various condiments. (Try the black cod if it's available.) Pizza Politana will be there, too, with toppings scored from the market.

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Nate Appleman Weighs In on A16's Pizza Being Named One of the Nation's 25 Best

Posted By on Thu, May 21, 2009 at 7:08 AM

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Disinfected via Flickr
The chef had a hunch something was up
Nate Appleman's certification by the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association as a pizzaiolo (one of a very few practicing the art in the US) paid off big time when A16's romana pie was named one of the 25 best in the US by GQ's Alan Richman.


"It made me very happy," Appleman told SFoodie, "especially because he told us he didn't like anchovies -- whole anchovies -- on pizzas, or whole olives. When he was here he had three or four pizzas -- that's when I thought he might be doing something about pizza! He had the romana, with chopped anchovies in the sauce, and whole olives; a margherita; the salsiccia, with fennel sausage; and I think he had a fresh ricotta with olio nuevo, new olive oil. And then he chose the pizza with the ingredients he thought he didn't like!"


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