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Wednesday, May 20, 2009

The Doggie Bag: Today's Odds and Ends

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 6:02 PM

Our favorite food blog items for Wednesday, May 20, 2009

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What the f***?: Seriously, who knew GI Joe had such a potty mouth, or was such an aficionado of the pork chop sandwich? YouTube reveals the filthy truth here. Credit the find to a Tuesday tweet from Hot Food Porn.

Poison pen: C'mon, organophosphate lovers, let Michelle Obama know about the pernicious influence in the LACK of pesticides on the organic White House veggie garden! Grist's Tom Philpott reveals the letter-writing campaign by the agrichemical industry to urge the First Lady to spray, baby, spray: What message does that send to the non-farming public about an important and integral part of growing safe and abundant crops to feed and clothe the world -- crop protection products?

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Forget the Pricing Kerfuffle, RN74's Wines are Worth Singing--Or Even Tweeting--About

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 4:28 PM

The Last Bottle Board: Any high rollers in the house? - FOODNUT.COM VIA FLICKER
  • Foodnut.com via Flicker
  • The Last Bottle Board: Any high rollers in the house?
RN74 is a restaurant that makes you feel like starting from the wine list and working backwards to the menu. The food -- though not remotely Burgundian as the name (a highway that runs through the region) would imply -- is lovely, but the reason for the season is wine director Rajat Parr's 80-plus pages of bottles, many rare and collectible. As Chron wine editor Jon Bonné pointed out after an early peek, RN74 is really a wine bar with great food.

So serious is this list that its creator, whose own label is featured as an affordable option, twitters about his Last Bottle Board, a vehicle for promoting the restaurant's wine program, unparalleled in the city. (The wines are from the collection of Wilf Jaeger, an RN74 partner.) The board looks like a train schedule in a French railway station, the kind that flips rapidly through the alphabet until it lands on its destination city. Only in this case, the destination is the very last bottle of something fabulous, like a 1983 Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese for $110. Of course, you have to be able to translate the tweet, which reads "Prum Weh Son Spat 83 $110." And you have to get to the restaurant before it's gone.

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Local Flavor: Deep-Fried Pickles at Weird Fish

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 3:54 PM

ZIPFLY VIA FLICKR
  • Zipfly via Flickr
This is how you tell if you have the right out-of-town guest as opposed to the wrong out-of-town guest: "There is a place," you say, "where they have deep-fried pickles. Would you like to go?" This can also be used as a gauge of a) who gets to be the father/mother of your child; b) who is worthy to receive your kidney for transplant; and c) who can marry into your family. If they respond with childlike wonder and a sense of adventure, they're in.

So when you take them to Weird Fish and order up a plate of Yo-Yos ($6), a pickle spear coated in tempura batter and fried might seem like all kinds of terrible. But then you take that first bite, experiencing the crunch of batter and the dense vinegar tang under knobbly-smooth pickle skin, and your faith in culinary experimentation is reaffirmed. No longer do you feel stupid for all the godawful things you've tried over the course of your life because they looked "interesting." (Not even for that unfortunate experience with the truffled corn nuts at Alembic, when you should have known better.) All is golden under the battered pickle halo.

Weird Fish 2193 Mission (at 18th St.), 863-4744

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Confessions of a Restaurant Critic: Range, Zuni, and Chez Panisse are Still Just as Fabulous as Ever

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 2:32 PM

Range's light hasn't dimmed a bit in four years - IN PRAISE OF SARDINES VIA FLICKR
  • In Praise of Sardines via Flickr
  • Range's light hasn't dimmed a bit in four years
It's rare that a restaurant critic gets to revisit favorite places, whether old or new. We're always looking for the next place to write about. (It's surprising how many friends will mention, after they read my review of some good new place, that they'd love to eat there with me. Not gonna happen! I'm eating somewhere else!)

But when friends from out of town visit, all bets are off. Especially when, as in the case of recent house guests from NY, they've never been to the Bay Area before (well, one had visited SF briefly, 20 years ago, as an impecunious student).

As bartender Edgar Kennedy replied to Harold Lloyd when he said he'd never taken a drink in his life in Preston Sturges' The Sin of Harold Diddlebock: "Sir, you rouse the artist in me!"

They were here for only a few days. Still, we managed to squeeze in croissants and pastries at Tartine, a Ferry Building stroll, dim sum at Yank Sing, drinks at the Alembic, and a dreamy walk through the produce aisles at Berkeley Bowl.

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Pavement Cuisine: Friday Night Street Supper in the Mission

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 2:00 PM

The real Mission street food - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • The real Mission street food

For the last several weeks, a dead-end block in the Mission (which we'll protect for the sake of the underground) has been host to a Friday night street supper. Last week, we arrived 15 minutes after it began and found nearly 50 people there already. And most of them, it seemed, had signed up for some Thai green curry with chicken or tofu ($5), made fresh on the spot by Magic Curry Man.

Doug Zimmerman - THE MAGIC CURRY MAN
  • The Magic Curry Man
  • Doug Zimmerman

Generously portioned and served over rice in a to-go container, it had a nicely spicy kick and luxurious creaminess.

"I don't want to be known as a chef," said Magic Curry Man, who we hear is actually a psychoanalyst by day.

"Nope, you're a magician!" we replied. He smiled affirmatively, then mentioned he'd been thinking about recruiting an actual illusionist to perform magic tricks while people wait.

Magic Curry in action - DOUG ZIMMERMAN
  • Doug Zimmerman
  • Magic Curry in action

Monsieur Amuse-Bouche, who often greets morning commuters at the 24th Street BART station with what he calls the "original, recession-buster breakfast" (a mini-muffin and hot-beverage-filled Dixie cup for $1), was offering zucchini muffins and Turkish black tea, which he swore wasn't strong, but was stiff enough to put big-time pep in our step for the rest of the evening. We also tried a heavenly strawberry tart ($3) while gazing longingly at bubble-like pita pockets stuffed with feta. We're still kicking ourselves for not getting one.

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With Luck, Dynamo Donut Will Soon Offer Both Indoor and Outdoor Seating

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 1:50 PM

They may soon be able to take a load off - NIALLKENNEDY VIA FLICKR
  • Niallkennedy via Flickr
  • They may soon be able to take a load off
If the zoning gods are kind, you soon won't have to devour that maple-glazed, bacon-topped apple doughnut from Dynamo Donut and Coffee while leaning against your Prius. Head Barista Sandy Parkinson told SFoodie that Dynamo -- which currently operates only a walk-up counter on 24th Street in the Mission -- should be ready to unveil café seating in about two weeks, assuming it gets the go-ahead from the city. The indoor space (located behind the double doors next to Dynamo's coffee counter) will have seating for up to 30. An outdoor patio space behind the café still needs landscaping - expect a late July or early August opening, again, assuming the space is rezoned for seating. Would it help to bribe the SF Planning Board with a double box of salted caramel sinkers? Just sayin'.

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Total Freedom and Tons of Running Around: Chef Chris Kronner Describes Prepping for the Thursday Night Pop-Up at Bruno's

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 11:56 AM

Kronner in Serpentine days, with pig's head - BROOKSOPHER VIA FLICKR
  • Brooksopher via Flickr
  • Kronner in Serpentine days, with pig's head
What's the day-to-day of running a pop-up restaurant? Chris Kronner, chef at the Thursday-night pop-up at Bruno's on Mission, told SFoodie it's a combination of exhaustion and the exhilaration that comes from calling your own shots.

Kronner cheffed at Slow Club and Serpentine before partnering up with Sam White and other restaurantistas in the conceptual OPENrestaurant project. Last week in Bruno's 40-seat Pussycat Lounge, Kronner's kitchen team did 110 covers -- a slam, more or less. On May 7, the pop-up's opening night, Kronner didn't leave the kitchen till 5:30 a.m.; last week, he slipped out at 3:15. But he's hardly crying about a 20-hour-plus day or two.

"We're doing it for ourselves," Kronner said, speaking for the pop-up's team. "It's total freedom, a creative outlet. Everything about it is intentional - that's what drives us." For Kronner, the Thursday night dinner is essentially a full-time gig, which makes him unique on the team. White still works on the floor at Chez Panisse, while the rest of the staff punch the clock at places like Pizzaiolo and Beretta.

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We All Scream for Dollar Ice Cream

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 11:00 AM

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Last week, when we strapped on the old feed bag to get down with the gloriously out-of-control vegan Messy Marcy sundae at MaggieMudd (903 Cortland at Gates), we found out that the shop has a pretty sweet weekly promotion: Every Wednesday, Miss Mudd offers a scoop in a cone or cup for just a buck. One would have to be over 40 to remember prices like that for ice cream (Thrifty drug stores notwithstanding). This price also includes MM's top-notch dairy-free ice cream flavors, which are made with either coconut milk or soy milk.

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The 10 Coolest Specialty Food and Drink Magazines

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 10:14 AM

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While gossip continues to circle like buzzards around the questionable fate of major food magazines Gourmet and Bon Appétit, a newer crop of young and independent specialty publications are providing plenty of food for thought. Here (in reverse order of our faves) are 10 worth picking up -- but don't put 'em in your mouth!

10. Swallow

A new art-driven magazine that debuted in September, Swallow is currently only published twice a year and available at a few shops around New York. But its sensuous, heavily visual take on eating has potential for breaking out to a wider readership.

9. VegNews
News and recipe features about vegetarian food often end up bland, but VegNews spices things up in an innovative way for a double serving of relevance.

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8. Flavor & Fortune
Dedicated to the vibrancy of Chinese cuisine, Flavor & Fortune pairs a spare, elegant layout with in-depth profiles of ingredients both familiar and freaky to the Western palate.

7. Edible Communities
A 50-title independent network, Edible mags cover local food scenes, with an emphasis on the organic and sustainable. Many, such as our own Edible San Francisco and Edible East Bay, are free.

6. Culture
A new magazine devoted to the art and pleasure of cheese, Culture had a well-defined voice and look from the first issue. And it has arguably the best name of the bunch.

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Raw and Sweet: 'Vegan Diva' Ani Phyo Presides Over Dessert Soirée Tomorrow Night at CandyBar

Posted By on Wed, May 20, 2009 at 7:35 AM

No cow was milked in the making of this book
  • No cow was milked in the making of this book
We picture some petulant, preachy tofu eater when we hear the words "vegan diva," but that's just what LA author and cooking teacher Ani Phyo calls herself. She'll be at sweets salon CandyBar tomorrow night, flogging her book Ani's Raw Food Desserts, at an event billed as an "Urban Dessert Soirée." For $40, you can scarf from a spread of CandyBar desserts, as well as a tasting of Phyo's raw-food sweets (think date-sweetened pecan cookies, and something called "Vanilla Mylk & SmartMonkey Bar Cereal"). In a nod, perhaps, to mega-diva Oprah, everyone walks away with a copy of Phyo's book, and, according to the press release, "a chance to win a take-home box of decadent chocolate truffles." Really? Only one box of chocs for the entire crowd? Why not just pass the damn thing around the room for everyone to share? Then again, it may be part of Phyo's whole diva shtick to leave all but the lucky winner wanting more. VegNews magazine is organizing the dairy-free shindig, scheduled for 6-9 p.m. Buy tickets here.

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    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"