Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Friday, May 8, 2009

Manly Burgers, Mom Food, Foie Feasts, and Stripper Chefs: The Week in SFoodie

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 5:30 PM

craggy_thumb_200x133.jpg
Here are a few highlights of this week's SFoodie, in case you missed 'em:

•Since we know that the hottest beefcake is always slapped between two buns, we investigated the hearty, lusty, and manly burgers at Truck and Joe's Cable Car Restaurant.

•Mother's Day is always a wonderful excuse to be gluttonous, and we got the (opposite of) skinny on where to tie on the ol' feed bag.

•As the war on foie gras rages on, we noticed that a protest spurred a feast at a local hotspot, and that a prominent local grocer has decided to remove it from the shelves. It's all loosey goosey around here.

Local chefs fared well at this week's James Beard Awards -- the Oscars of the food world -- and some of them apparently used the occasion to unleash their inner strippers.

•Plus: Sexy Dishes Week in the Bay Area,  raw vegan donuts in the Sunset, Mission Impossible sushi in Japantown, and Beautifull eats in Laurel Village.

  • Pin It

PlumpJack Prez is Focused on the Future; No Word on Leiva's

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 5:07 PM

Leiva: Up in the air
  • Leiva: Up in the air
PlumpJack Group president (and sis to the mayor) Hilary Newsom told SFoodie she was looking ahead, not dwelling on tomorrow night's last supper at Jack Falstaff. "We had a terrific five years in the SOMA neighborhood," Newsom said, adding that she's focusing on a reconcepting of PlumpJack Café on Fillmore that should launch later this year.

Newsom all but admitted that Jack Falstaff's Second Street location had been challenging. "The space had tremendous potential," she said. "but probably wasn't right for the Jack Falstaff concept. It's a great location for someone, but the PlumpJack Group was probably not the right brand for it."

Jack Falstaff began with an upscale menu that sometimes seemed at odds with its location near the ballpark. In recent years -- under executive chef Jonnatan Leiva -- the menu emphasized comfort foods, stars of its Sunday and Monday night family dinners. As for Leiva's future, Newsom said it was too soon to say if he'd be staying with PlumpJack. "We're absolutely actively talking to him," she said. "I know he's talking to others as well."

The new concept for PlumpJack Café seems to acknowledge diners' search for bargains and feel-good dishes in the present gloomy climate. "We'll be going back to our roots," Newsom said, "offering Mediterranean-American cuisine heavily focused on our favorable wine pricing."

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

Kitchenette to Star at Mission Street Food

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 3:32 PM

Say adios to the loading dock, at least for one night
  • Say adios to the loading dock, at least for one night
One of the biggest food stories in a year destined to be remembered for depressing restaurant closures is Kitchenette, which (in case you just blew in from Fresno) serves up amazing weekday lunches from a loading dock in Dogpatch. Brace yourselves, groupies: On Thursday, June 11, the Kitchenette team invades Mission Street Food, the twice-weekly restaurant phenom that was one of SF's biggest food stories of last year.

Kitchenette (and LRE Catering) chef and partner Douglas Monsalud told SFoodie the evening will feature a "colony concept" - foods originally from Spain, as interpreted in its various former colonies: Mexico, Argentina, even the Philippines. "It's not going to be a normal street-food menu," Monsalud said. "We do that kind of thing every day." Also behind the stoves that night: Kitchenette chef de cuisine Brian Dudley, formerly of Foreign Cinema. By the way, though this'll mark his first appearance at MSF, Monsalud goes way back with founder Anthony Myint: He once catered his wedding. Keep watching the MSF Web site for info.

Meanwhile, Kitchenette's popularity continues to be fierce. Monsalud reported that the loading dock got so swamped today, crowds cleaned them out by 12:45. Dayum!

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Cocktail Week: Erik Adkins Revives His Favorite Drunk

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 1:31 PM

Adkins holding forth - NIRVINO
  • nirvino
  • Adkins holding forth
Mixology god Erik Adkins is paying tribute next week to one of the quirkiest guys ever to pick up a swizzle stick: Charles H. Baker Jr. As part of Cocktail Week, Adkins - manager and bar director of Heaven's Dog - will teach modern twists on iconic cocktails by Baker, who wrote The Gentleman's Companion, first published in 1939. A correspondent for Esquire and Gourmet, and buddy to Hemingway and Faulkner, Baker traveled the world in the 1930s, concocting sometimes Byzantine cocktails with names like "The Rosy Dawn." Adkins, who revived Baker classics for Heaven's Dog, told SFoodie a typical Baker cocktail is hard to make. "He was drunk when he wrote a lot of them," Adkins said.

The Baker Bar School happens Thursday, May 14, at Heaven's Dog & Noodle Shop (1148 Mission at Seventh Street). Tickets are $30 (plus service fee), and space is limited. Score 'em at the Cocktail Week Web site.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

Andronico's Nixes Foie Gras

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 11:49 AM

Banished
  • Banished
Upscale Bay Area grocery chain Andronico's has pulled foie gras from its meat cases. A press release from the Animal Protection & Rescue League, the San Diego organization that helped stage an anti-foie-gras protest in front of Jardiniere last Saturday, quotes Andronico's buyer Tracey Colla calling production of the fattened duck livers "inhumane."

As of this posting, an Andronico's spokesperson hadn't returned a call seeking comment. But a random call to the Irving Street store confirmed that an internal memo had recently circulated, calling on meat departments to stop selling the luxury goodie. On its Web site, Andronico's says it is "committed" to being "clean and green," and suggests the benefits of animals being treated "humanely on sustainable farms," without actually stating that the chain sells only pastured or antibiotic-free meats.

Whole Foods has had a zero foie-gras policy since 1997. In March, city supes passed a symbolic resolution commending restaurants that spurn the increasingly controversial ingredient. California's total ban on the sale and production of foie gras goes into effect in 2012.

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Drink of the Week: Aziza's Cilantro

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 9:41 AM

azizacilantro_thumb_500x375_thumb_250x187_thumb_400x299_thumb_250x186.jpg
With owner/chef Mourad Lahlou's recent victory over Cat Cora on Iron Chef America, as well as the announcement that he's working on a 13-part television series filmed in San Francisco and Marrakesh, Aziza (5800 Geary at 22nd Ave.) has been up for extra attention lately. 


The cocktails deserve just as much buzz. Aziza serves up a collection of drinks made with fresh, simple ingredients. Intoxicating all on its own is the scent of the Cilantro (Skyy vodka, muddled kaffir lime, and sprigs of its namesake). The herb doesn't prove a weird stretch (always a risk when cilantro shows up in the wrong context). Instead, the interplay between its savory fragrance and the smooth lime delivers a powerful extra dimension to the drink.


  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

Wine, Beer, & Booze Events, May 8-16

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 8:01 AM

napasmithlogo.jpg
Friday, 5/8:
  • 8:00 p.m., One Market

    (1 Market at Steuart): five-course meal of chef Mark Dommen's signature

    dishes including Dungeness crab salad with avocado, cucumber, and

    lemongrass sorbet, sous-vide Alaskan halibut, and beef cheeks braised

    with Guinness, $64 with beer pairing, $74 with wine pairing; to reserve,

    call 777-5577 and specify "Zagat presents"

  • 6:00-8:00 p.m., The Jug Shop (1590 Pacific at Polk):

    Napa Smith Brewery, details TBA

The Press Club
  • The Press Club
Saturday, 5/9:
  • noon-3:00 p.m., K&L (638 4th St at Bluxome):

    Central Coast Pinot Noir, details TBA

  • noon-4:00 p.m., Press Club: fundraiser for Spark, tickets $35 (advance, $45 at door) includes tastings at all

    eight winery bars and hors d'oeuvres

  • 2:00-5:30 p.m., SF Wine Trading Co. (250 Taraval at Funston): tasting of ten wines under $10, $10
Sunday, 5/10:
  • 3:00 p.m., The Jug Shop (1590 Pacific at Polk): Australian wine tasting and book signing with author Matt Skinner, $10 (happy Mother's Day, moms, you get in free)
bentonlane.jpg
Monday, 5/11:

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Beautifull - and Pricey - in Laurel Village

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 8:00 AM

img_3464.jpg
A new take-out and eat-in shop called Beautifull (3401 California at Laurel, 728-9080) opened last Thursday in Laurel Village. The space recently housed a Cuban coffeehouse (Cafe Lo Cubano), and before that a beloved neighborhood greasy spoon called Miz Brown's Feed Bag.


We dropped in to put the feed bag on during Beautiful's second day of business. It was crowded, both with hopeful buyers lined up along the glass display case and slightly rattled servers behind it. We caught a bit of contact anxiety: customers and servers were equally unfamiliar with the routine, one of the two cash registers was acting up, and the music was too loud.


img_3494.jpg
Beautifull's menu describes it as "a revolutionary new store providing tasty, healthy, and convenient food that is fresh, natural, and whole."


Since "home meal replacement" (i.e., takeout food for those too busy or lacking the skills to cook their own) has been a hot trend in the food world for some time, and Beautifull itself has been in business for some time, preparing food for such places as Blue Fog Market, Berkeley Bowl, and Real Food Company, the revolution seems to be that this is Emeryville-based Beautiful's first retail store, designed by Cass Calder Smith. designer of the trendy San Francisco eateries Lulu, Terzo, and Lar Mar Cebicheria.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Morning Buzz: A Foodie Day Planner

Posted By on Fri, May 8, 2009 at 6:14 AM

morningbuzz_thumb_250x165.jpeg
Friday, May 8, 2009

Let's do lunch:

SF Weekly food critic Meredith Brody says don't miss the yellowtail sammy with avocado and fennel at FiDi gem The Sentinel (37 New Montgomery at Stevenson Alley, 284-9960).

Get your drink on:

Five-buck cocktails and four-buck hand rolls at Tsunami Sushi Mission Bay (301 King at Fourth St., 284-0111), 5-6:30 p.m.

Two-for-one happy hour (beer, well drinks, and wines by the glass) at sweetly Frenchy Cassis (2101 Sutter at Steiner, 440-4500), 5:30-6:30 p.m.

Food for thought:

Saturday, May 9: Score a taste of the edible schoolyard at Sherman Elementary School's Spring Garden Party, 10 a.m.-3 p.m., Sherman Elementary School (1651 Union at Franklin, 474-7124). One of 17 SFUSD schools to receive funds from a 2003 bond, Sherman offers a working model of the green schoolyard. Free.

Sunday, May 10: Get naked with Aussie Matt Skinner, wine director for hyper Brit Jamie Oliver's restaurant group Fifteen. Skinner, who calls himself the Naked Sommelier, will be signing copies of his latest book and guiding a wine tasting. The Jug Shop (1590 Pacific at Polk, 885-2922), 3 p.m. $10.

  • Pin It

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"