Crammed with silk flowers, spangly garlands, and enough shiny surfaces to induce epilepsy, the place is more jeepney than cable car. Owner Joe Obegi has a flair for shameless self-promotion, from signs that scream JOE GRINDS HIS OWN FRESH CHUCK DAILY, to the monitor running an endless loop of a visit by Food Network loudmouth Guy Fieri. Behind the noise, Joe's Cable Burger ($13.45 for the six ouncer) has a quiescent heart. The meat is fabulous: kibble-coarse, loosely packed, and tender, with an astonishing pure-beef quality that'd feel right at home at Zuni. The rest is disappointingly old school, from the flattop griddle that cooked it (charcoal roolz) to the Wonder-fluffy bun. Still, if you've got the cash, Joe's is a taste of Mad Men-era flash.
