Truck 1900 Folsom (at 15th St.), 252-0306
After scarfing pork-belly bocaditos and octopus salad at Contigo in Noe Valley, SF Weekly food critic Matthew Stafford gets all dreamy thinking about the vacay he took in Barcelona. Stafford thinks chef-owner Brett Emerson gets all the details right in this local simulacrum of the Catalan tapas bar. Drool over the full review later today at sfweekly.com. Meantime, here's a taste:
The similarities between the Bay Area and Catalonia are striking. Both regions have a fierce independent streak and derive much of their identity from the nearness of the sea. Both are dominated by cities renowned for their leafy, hilly charm and footloose sophistication. And both enjoy a proximal larder of seasonal produce, game, and seafood practically unmatched anywhere in the world ... and the wherewithal to enjoy them absolutely. Contigo, a new Catalan restaurant in Noe Valley, is a fine example of this duality in action. Here, specialties from Spain's northeastern reaches are prepared and served in an environment as lively and attractive as any Barcelona bodega, using foodstuffs sourced from Straus Family Creamery, Monterey Fish Market, Star Route Farm, and 42 other all-organic dairies, ranchers, and fisherfolk from our own back yard.
Jeremy Fox called to protest what he suggested were inaccurate characterizations in this post. The quotes are accurate, he said, and he admitted to busting moves on the stripper pole, but he objected to the insinuations that he -- or anyone else on Chang's party bus -- was drunk. Or hungover, for that matter: Fox said his phone voice next morning was the result of getting up early for phone meetings. He said he's worked hard to build his reputation as a serious, hard-working chef and resented what he called an attempt to be funny at his expense. --J. Birdsall
Michael Pollan sounded nonchalant this morning when describing last night's Beard Award win. The Berkeley author and J-School prof snagged the writing award for In Defense of Food, which disses twentieth-century food science while getting all passionate about real food. "Look, it's wonderful to be recognized by that community," Pollan (who previously scored a Beard win for 2006's The Omnivore's Dilemma) told SFoodie, in a voice that sounded either humble or, well, a tad unimpressed. "It's not one of those awards that changes your life or comes with a cash prize, but it's very nice to receive it." Unable to attend the awards ceremony in New York City last night, Pollan learned of his win by text message from a friend. So how does a celebrated author celebrate a Beard award? The prix fixe at Chez Panisse? Maybe. "I think that's a great idea," Pollan said, but don't count on seeing him slurping the Tuscan fish soup on tonight's menu: He's too busy working.
It's a mystery just how almonds, coconut, dates, vanilla extract, coconut oil, agave, and spices are able to magically combine in the kitchen of the grocery co-op Other Avenues (3930 Judah at 44th Ave.) to make a vegan, raw take on a donut hole that works so well. While People's Donuts of Berkeley make lovely vegan donuts (also carried at OA), these are also raw and offer a texture that's decidedly less dry. OA sells their Vegan Raw Donut Holes for $3.50 for a container of three, and they're more filling than they might appear.
