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Sunday, March 8, 2009

Global Pantry: Chestnut Honey

Posted By on Sun, Mar 8, 2009 at 2:20 PM

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Not to put too fine a point on it: chestnut honey stinks. It doesn't smell anything like chestnuts, or honey. Its unique, funky aroma is so odd that if you encounter it for the first time without warning, you might think something was wrong. More than once I've seen other customers in restaurants send dishes that included it back because they thought something had gone off.

Like great stinky cheeses, the flavor is relatively subtle: a bit bitter, slightly smoky, and not very sweet. The most common ways to serve it are with Gorgonzola dolcelatte, a buttery, creamy, slightly blue cheese (though it goes well with almost any creamy blue) or drizzled over roast pears.

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Incanto's Open Letter on Foie Gras

Posted By on Sun, Mar 8, 2009 at 1:00 PM

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Inspired by recent protests at Seattle's Lark against the restaurant serving Sonoma foie gras, Incanto owner Mark Pastore has published a long, thoughtful essay, Shock & Foie: The War Against Dietary Self-Determism. After placing the issue in the context of the current concern for "sustainability," the essential roles of death and destruction in food production, the relevant differences between duck and human physiology, and the tiny (0.04 oz.) portion of Americans' 220-pounds-per-year average meat consumption accounted for by foie gras, Pastore gets to his essential point, that foie gras is a cynical wedge issue:

"Working to ban something that 99% of people never eat is not an act requiring great moral or physical courage ... the anti-foie gras movement is - at best - founded upon a shrewd political calculation in which the professed indignation of a few is used to harness the indifference of the many to the inherent political cowardice of elected officials, in order to achieve a desired political outcome. In essence, it's a confidence game in which participating meat-eaters, by agreeing to condemn something that they don't care about, receive the equivalent of a get-out-of-jail card, i.e., the right to feel slightly less guilty as they bite into that factory-farmed McNugget."

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  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"