There's much to praise about Charles Phan's newest restaurant venture Heaven's Dog (1148 Mission). But if you want to go straight to the heart of it and don't have the time or means to carry out a full sit-down reservation, here's an idea: Belly up to the bar, lounge or adjacent noodle bar and order some pork belly buns or a veggie variety with crispy tofu and shiitake ($8).
These addictive morsels are a clear tribute to those served at the New York restaurant Momofuku, the great success which, if media reports are to be believed, was almost singlehandedly built on the back of buns.
