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Thursday, February 26, 2009

Road Trip Pit Stop: Corti Brothers

Posted By on Thu, Feb 26, 2009 at 2:27 PM

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A sleepy stretch of Folsom Boulevard in East Sacramento might seem like an unlikely location for a world-famous gourmet emporium like Corti Brothers, but it makes sense when you know its history. Owner Darrell Corti grew up in the grocery store the eponymous brothers, his father Frank and uncle Gino, opened in 1947.

In that hospitable environment, Corti developed a discerning palate for food and wine. He also had an extraordinary gift for languages. That combination led to his traveling the world to buy exceptional goodies for the store, thus becoming a godfather to the Bay Area's 1970s culinary revolution. As Chez Panisse's Alice Waters told the LA Times, "Darrell opened my eyes to products from around the world. He is an amazing person who knows everything about everything."

Corti continues to seek out the obscure and delicious to this day, making a stop at the store a must for many Bay Area gourmets on the way to or from points east on I-80 or north on I-5. The liquor department (pictured in part above), for example, includes by far the best selection of Italian imports in Northern California. This is the only place I know where you might find a choice of four Barolo Chinatos, or Nardini's full line of liqueurs.

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Celebrate the Persian New Year with Hoss Zaré

Posted By on Thu, Feb 26, 2009 at 2:10 PM

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Norooz Mobarak! That's what they say when ringing in the Persian New Year as well as what you'll be saying if you win a pretty sweet contest currently being held at Zaré at Fly Trap (606 Folsom). Drop a business card in the bowl and, if selected, exec chef/owner Hoss Zaré will come to your house and cook a dinner for four with the same menu he'll use to ring in the Persian New Year at the prestigious James Beard House in New York on March 18. Zaré delights in offering personal service at his restaurant, but here he takes it a step further.

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Global Pantry: Styrian Toasted Pumpkin-Seed Oil

Posted By on Thu, Feb 26, 2009 at 8:01 AM

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Farmers in Styria, a former duchy that straddles the Austrian-Slovenian border, have been making artisanal pumpkin-seed oil pretty much the same way since not too long after the squashes arrived there from the New World. Seeds from a particularly oil-rich local variety of squash are dried, hulled, toasted, and pressed, producing a dark green, almost black oil.

The flavor is nutty with earthy undertones, reminiscent of Mexican roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas), but much more intense. It makes a great dip for crusty bread; that combination makes a fast, easy snack that's perfect for a wine tasting or aperitifs. A friend who visited Styria said that there they use it in a dressing for cold meat salads--there are some recipes here. It also makes a good finishing oil for soups, particularly simple winter squash purees.

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