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Thursday, February 19, 2009

A Tale of Two Cities at Basil Canteen

Posted By on Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 10:45 PM

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Basil Canteen (1489 Folsom), is an offshoot of nearby Basil Thai (1175 Folsom) that opened last summer. Where the original Basil specializes in more formal dishes, the Canteen's focus is on small plates and snacks from the streets of Thailand. It's a great spot to stop for a light meal before hitting the multitude of nightclubs around the corner on 11th Street.



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Rare-Ass Beer of the Week: Beer Lao (and Champa Garden)

Posted By on Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 1:00 PM

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Beer Lao is a relatively recent addition to the global beer menu. Commercial brewing dates back only to 1973, when some French colonists partnered with local businessmen to start what eventually became the state-controlled Lao Brewery Company. The current beers were developed by head brewer Sivilay Lasachack, who replaced most of the imported barley with domestic rice, producing a less bitter brew more appealing to local palates.

Beer Lao Lager has a good balance of malt and hops with a dry finish. It's similar in style to other Asian lagers such as Phuket, Singha, and Tsingtao, but better, and matches perfectly with Laotian cuisine.

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Serious Bread: Vital Vittles Sourdough Rye

Posted By on Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:01 AM

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Joe and Kass Schwin started Berkeley's Vital Vittles in 1976 with the intent of selling freshly-milled, stone-ground, organic flour. They quickly switched to baking bread, but they still grind their own flour daily, which gives their products a more pronounced grain flavor and a unique nuttiness.

Their flagship Real Bread is a simple, dense, yeast-raised, 100% whole-wheat loaf that makes great toast. Most of the bakery's other breads are minor variations on that, with seeds, nuts, other grains, raisins, or corn mixed in. To me, all those breads taste pretty much alike, though the millet in the sesame-millet loaf adds a distinctive and pleasant crunch.

One exception to the taste-alike rule is the Russian Sourdough, an even denser bread made from nothing but whole-wheat flour, salt, water, and whatever wild bacteria and/or yeast ferment the dough. I prefer the Sourdough Rye, a very similar bread made with a percentage of rye flour and some caraway seeds. Sliced thin, this makes great German- or Scandinavian-style open-faced sandwiches.

You can find Vital Vittles' breads all over the area--there's a list of retailers on their Web site. They also sell at farmers' markets in Berkeley, Oakland, and Pleasanton, and at the bakery (2810 San Pablo, Berkeley).

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Vegan Eats: Aunt Nettie's Carrot Spice Teacake

Posted By on Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:00 AM

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Achieving just the right moist texture is usually the main challenge when it comes to vegan baking; it's been the downfall of oh so many chefs. But the smart addition of pineapple helps Aunt Nettie's Carrot Spice Teacake to pass that important test with flying colors. Nettie's, a Santa Cruz-based wholesale bakery and kitchen, is not strictly dairy-free but has created a notable vegan product with its teacakes, also made in banana and blueberry varieties. Find them all at Rainbow Grocery (1745 Folsom).

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